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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2013, 03:30 AM Thread Starter
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starter cable

Hello all

I am wondering if the cable that runs from the starter top the + battery terminal is welded. Is it welded on the starter. Reason I ask is because I am going to relocate my battery to the trunk.

Much appreciated,

Tim
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2013, 04:50 AM
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I don't remember but even if it is welded you can still cut the cable and either use an 8 gauge butt connector or bolt the 8 gauge ring terminal to the 0/1 ring terminal with a washer (assuming your running 0/1 gauge wire or larger). Then you can heat shrink the connectors and cover the connector with heat shrink and wrap the heat shrink in electrical tape. That's what I did when I installed aftermarket battery clamps. BTW Homedepot has aluminum but connectors or that's what they had years ago when I helped a local TCCA member put aftermarket clamps on his bull.

But keep in mind the starter needs a lot of amps to turn and the catch 22 is that [your supposed to] fuse the wire within 6" of the battery to protect the car from catching fire from electrical shorts and what not. I would carefully think this over before the relocation. You may want to put a 300 Amp or higher fuse 6" from the battery in the trunk if you relocate it....but some people do not use a fuse. Decisions, decisions, choose wisely. If your considering an aftermarket stereo, why not have 2 new audio batteries of the same size in parallel? Food for thought.


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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2013, 05:10 AM
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It is not welded, it just has an eyelet on the end of the wire. It's an easy cut, solder and shrink tube repair. May I ask why you are relocating the battery to the trunk? Where do you plan on running/routing the 0 or 1 gauge wire?

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2013, 05:53 AM
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Don't forget to buy a quality 0/1 gauge grommet and Harbor Frieght sells the 3 pack of large bits to cut the 0/1 gauge size hole in your firewall. You may want to spray rustoleum over the hole to prevent the hole from rusting. I wrapped my 0/2 gauge cable in loom and wrapped over the loom in electrical tape. Route your power on the left side and the audio interconnects on the right to avoid interference & noise. Also remember to NOT "snake" a LIVE wire through the car so you don't blow fuses and stuff. The last thing you are supposed to do is connect the power (battery clamps) after the job is done. But it may be wise to leave the battery in its box under the hood. Remember when you relocate your battery your big 3 is neutralized.


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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2013, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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Ha. Harbor freight! Anyway I'm ordering two knetik batteries and installing both in the back
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2013, 03:16 PM
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You can crimp on new connectors but it takes a special tool to handle the size. I replaced the positive battery connection and it was pretty difficult to crimp without a tool. I ended up soldering the connection by pre tinning the wire and the connector and then put them together and then added additional solder using a propane torch. It takes a lot of heat to prevent a cold solder joint.

Cold solder joint or a improper crimp is going to cause a voltage drop.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2013, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Automender12345 View Post
You can crimp on new connectors but it takes a special tool to handle the size. I replaced the positive battery connection and it was pretty difficult to crimp without a tool. I ended up soldering the connection by pre tinning the wire and the connector and then put them together and then added additional solder using a propane torch. It takes a lot of heat to prevent a cold solder joint.

Cold solder joint or a improper crimp is going to cause a voltage drop.

+1
I would 2nd "Automenders the soldering the lugs on with a propane torch for the BEST possible connection. Personally I have Stinger dual 0/1 ring terminals, RF 0/1 ring terminals, generic & even Home Depot ring terminals that fit up to 0/3. All of which are the ridiculously overpriced [screw in variety] except for the Home Depot items. I mummify the exposed wire in electrical tape to prevent corrosion.

Here is a picture of the copper Home Depot lugs that can hold up to 0/3 gauge wire. I have modified many of these lugs for high voltage applications. If you buy an internet value package of 0/1 crimp-able lugs and can't afford the special crimp tool. The work around is a heavy duty commercial shop vise where you can use your body weight as leverage to get the job done (assuming you avg. near 200Lbs). I had to do that in 2006 with 16 lugs and I was sore for days.

Look at this video. 140+DB SPL...not bad for 1/2 a stack investment. You can have a stock alt & stock battery as long as you did the big 3 and have the right ported box firing forward, a pair of good subs, a good amp and good HU you can get loud.
Don't blow 3-6k on a sound system until you finish college & land the dream job.

Budget SPL: Metering 2 10" Subwoofers w/ DaveTheBoxGuy's Custom Ported Box & Lanzar Opti 1000w Amp - YouTube
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-28-2013, 12:39 AM Thread Starter
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Already too late for that. Though Im really rethinking the amp I got. Its a power acoustik. The only reason I got it is because it was cheap and it was recommended by my friend because he uses the same one. I have two 12" boss ctx122 subs as well. That was cheap also. Amazon reviews said that theyre good quality and they last. I have still to order 1/0 grommets, more 1/0 wire and 2 kinetik 1800 batteries. I'm thinking of using the spare tire location for the two batteries. Do u think that is a good idea?
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-28-2013, 12:45 AM Thread Starter
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Also, I have a 230 (250 peak) alt from Michael singer. I returned the DB electrical alt because of how crappy it was. So far here's my setup (and what I currently have in my car):

Currently in car:
- alpine cde-110
- infinity 8602cfx speakers

Future items to go in car:

- (2) boss cx122 subs
- power acoustik rz1-2300
- 250 peak alternator
- (2) kinetik hc1800 batteries (both to relocate in trunk because I have the money to do so )
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-28-2013, 02:03 AM Thread Starter
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Would a heat gun work or not?
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