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stylenclass 10-27-2013 03:30 AM

starter cable
 
Hello all

I am wondering if the cable that runs from the starter top the + battery terminal is welded. Is it welded on the starter. Reason I ask is because I am going to relocate my battery to the trunk.

Much appreciated,

Tim :)

Blkfordtaurusman 10-27-2013 04:50 AM

I don't remember but even if it is welded you can still cut the cable and either use an 8 gauge butt connector or bolt the 8 gauge ring terminal to the 0/1 ring terminal with a washer (assuming your running 0/1 gauge wire or larger). Then you can heat shrink the connectors and cover the connector with heat shrink and wrap the heat shrink in electrical tape. That's what I did when I installed aftermarket battery clamps. BTW Homedepot has aluminum but connectors or that's what they had years ago when I helped a local TCCA member put aftermarket clamps on his bull.

But keep in mind the starter needs a lot of amps to turn and the catch 22 is that [your supposed to] fuse the wire within 6" of the battery to protect the car from catching fire from electrical shorts and what not. I would carefully think this over before the relocation. You may want to put a 300 Amp or higher fuse 6" from the battery in the trunk if you relocate it....but some people do not use a fuse. Decisions, decisions, choose wisely. If your considering an aftermarket stereo, why not have 2 new audio batteries of the same size in parallel? Food for thought.

cjjames23 10-27-2013 05:10 AM

It is not welded, it just has an eyelet on the end of the wire. It's an easy cut, solder and shrink tube repair. May I ask why you are relocating the battery to the trunk? Where do you plan on running/routing the 0 or 1 gauge wire?

Blkfordtaurusman 10-27-2013 05:53 AM

Don't forget to buy a quality 0/1 gauge grommet and Harbor Frieght sells the 3 pack of large bits to cut the 0/1 gauge size hole in your firewall. You may want to spray rustoleum over the hole to prevent the hole from rusting. I wrapped my 0/2 gauge cable in loom and wrapped over the loom in electrical tape. Route your power on the left side and the audio interconnects on the right to avoid interference & noise. Also remember to NOT "snake" a LIVE wire through the car :pat: so you don't blow fuses and stuff. The last thing you are supposed to do is connect the power (battery clamps) after the job is done. :thumb: But it may be wise to leave the battery in its box under the hood. Remember when you relocate your battery your big 3 is neutralized.

stylenclass 10-27-2013 11:07 AM

Ha. Harbor freight! Anyway I'm ordering two knetik batteries and installing both in the back

Automender12345 10-27-2013 03:16 PM

You can crimp on new connectors but it takes a special tool to handle the size. I replaced the positive battery connection and it was pretty difficult to crimp without a tool. I ended up soldering the connection by pre tinning the wire and the connector and then put them together and then added additional solder using a propane torch. It takes a lot of heat to prevent a cold solder joint.

Cold solder joint or a improper crimp is going to cause a voltage drop.

Blkfordtaurusman 10-27-2013 07:36 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Automender12345 (Post 2009090)
You can crimp on new connectors but it takes a special tool to handle the size. I replaced the positive battery connection and it was pretty difficult to crimp without a tool. I ended up soldering the connection by pre tinning the wire and the connector and then put them together and then added additional solder using a propane torch. It takes a lot of heat to prevent a cold solder joint.

Cold solder joint or a improper crimp is going to cause a voltage drop.


+1
I would 2nd "Automenders the soldering the lugs on with a propane torch for the BEST possible connection. Personally I have Stinger dual 0/1 ring terminals, RF 0/1 ring terminals, generic & even Home Depot ring terminals that fit up to 0/3. All of which are the ridiculously overpriced [screw in variety] except for the Home Depot items. I mummify the exposed wire in electrical tape to prevent corrosion.

Here is a picture of the copper Home Depot lugs that can hold up to 0/3 gauge wire. I have modified many of these lugs for high voltage applications. If you buy an internet value package of 0/1 crimp-able lugs and can't afford the special crimp tool. The work around is a heavy duty commercial shop vise where you can use your body weight as leverage to get the job done (assuming you avg. near 200Lbs). I had to do that in 2006 with 16 lugs and I was sore for days.

Look at this video. 140+DB SPL...not bad for 1/2 a stack investment. You can have a stock alt & stock battery as long as you did the big 3 and have the right ported box firing forward, a pair of good subs, a good amp and good HU you can get loud.
Don't blow 3-6k on a sound system until you finish college & land the dream job. :thumb:

Budget SPL: Metering 2 10" Subwoofers w/ DaveTheBoxGuy's Custom Ported Box & Lanzar Opti 1000w Amp - YouTube

stylenclass 10-28-2013 12:39 AM

Already too late for that. Though Im really rethinking the amp I got. Its a power acoustik. The only reason I got it is because it was cheap and it was recommended by my friend because he uses the same one. I have two 12" boss ctx122 subs as well. That was cheap also. Amazon reviews said that theyre good quality and they last. I have still to order 1/0 grommets, more 1/0 wire and 2 kinetik 1800 batteries. I'm thinking of using the spare tire location for the two batteries. Do u think that is a good idea?

stylenclass 10-28-2013 12:45 AM

Also, I have a 230 (250 peak) alt from Michael singer. I returned the DB electrical alt because of how crappy it was. So far here's my setup (and what I currently have in my car):

Currently in car:
- alpine cde-110
- infinity 8602cfx speakers

Future items to go in car:

- (2) boss cx122 subs
- power acoustik rz1-2300
- 250 peak alternator
- (2) kinetik hc1800 batteries (both to relocate in trunk because I have the money to do so :) )

stylenclass 10-28-2013 02:03 AM

Would a heat gun work or not?


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