Torque mount on duratecs (gen 4)? - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Torque mount on duratecs (gen 4)?

rockauto (by mistake) says yes (if you select the DOHC engine, the torque mount is still there)
thinking it must be somewhere hidden (honestly, I didn't look to much), I bought it together with the two engine and one trans
I replaced the three and after a short search on the forum I realized the torque mount is nowhere to be found on duratecs.
I could have left it off (not a lot of money wasted on it) but three things made me look further:

1: I bought the "lesser" brand of mounts (Anchor instead of DEA) and they were already on the car and a torque mount would have helped prolong their life
2: the holes for the screws holding the "chassis" bracket are there anyway
3: around here (Baltimore), we have a few "u-pull" junkyards where for 1$ you can do whatever you want ...

That being said, Sunday I went to one. I took the brackets (12$) from a Vulcan and went home to see what can I do. Three hours of work later, the conclusion is that it can be done (adapted):

Here is some info and pics:

https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/87-e...tor-mount.html

This is the picture:

https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/atta...ount-b_002.jpg

Here's how you can adapt it:

1: Throw away the right metal stick (the with the longest screw going through it) - there's nothing to connect it to (maybe fabricate a custom one but it will be at an angle and it won't help too much); from now on, you're only working with the big black part
2: Bend the big metal part the other way; as you look at the linked picture, the lower left part of it is higher than the upper right (as seen in the picture); the offset is about 5mm; it needs to be the same but the other way (a blow torch helps a lot)
3: As you look at the power steering pump, you can see three bolts going into the engine (there might be a forth one underneath) - take out the one closest to the cabin; in order to do that you have a crank the engine bit by bit until one of the holes in the pulley closest to the shaft aligns with the screw
4: Bend the PS tube (that goes from the pump to the rack) about half an inch towards the engine
5: Take the black part, slide it between the belt and the engine and put the lowest hole on the only bolt you see on the alternator and slide it forward until it touches the PS pump; using an angle grinder, start cutting whatever it's needed until the part of it holding the torque mount's bushing gets about 1 cm away from the pulley; this will include the hole in the middle of it
6: Drill a hole in line with the one left after you took out the PS bolt (what I did was pushing it against the hole and using a WD40 spray with a tube, spray from the inside of the screw's hole - I got a round patch of WD40 where the hole should be)
7: The last thing is that the mount's bushing won't align with the original hole - you need to drill one more time - a bit higher than the original one


DONE!

Please let me know if you have any questions!


With the brackets in place, you can see the engine moving about half an inch when revved in N. Almost nothing with the mount in place (maybe the part of the engine close to the trans moves a bit - it would be nice to have two torque mounts). The car feels tighter both when accelerating and braking but also there's a bit more engine movement transmitted through the chassis. Overall, I'm pleased.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-28-2013, 01:46 AM
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Please post a photo of the finished product. My car needs some serious mount work.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-28-2013, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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I will only post pics of it on the car because until the very end I wasn't sure it will fit/work (that's why I didn't take pictures). And tightening the nut and screw holding the black part took me more than half an hour: I don't want to take it out, EVER.

On the other hand, if the belt is off, it's waaay easier.

Now it's raining outside so the pics will be posted a bit later.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-28-2013, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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Rain stopped a bit.

First pic shows where I drew the new hole for the bushing (higher than original; also no adjustment).
Second pic shows the clearance over the pulley.
Third pic shows unnecessary grinding for the PS tube clearance (first I started cutting THEN I realized I can push it a bit).
The alternator bolt is too deep to show up clearly in a pic.

Let me know if you want to see more angles.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-08-2013, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Today I put the other bracket; I'm not sure it helps but it took me 2 minutes (instead of throwing it in the trash).
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-08-2013, 01:45 PM
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Wait a minute... You connected it between the alternator and PS support? Both are on engine, both move together with the engine.
That's useless, you need to have one end on the car frame and one on engine! This is to stop engine from moving when is loaded up.
I kind of doubt that Duratec moves as much as the Vulcan.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-08-2013, 07:12 PM
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Your pics are good,,, but need to move back for wider view, so we can see attachment point to strut tower!!! for us duratechs....
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-08-2013, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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Will take some more pics tomorrow. The strut tower attachment is "stock" meaning that it looks similar to the one on vulcans.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-10-2013, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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A day late, too lazy to do it yesterday

The most important thing is in the third picture where you can see that the black part is bent (in its lower part) TOWARDS the engine while also having a part cut out of it (to clear a PS pipe.
On the Vulcan it's bent towards the wheel. Both cases the offset is about 1cm.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-10-2013, 06:50 PM
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I wonder if I can make one for the SHO...


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