rockauto (by mistake) says yes (if you select the DOHC
engine, the torque mount is still there)
thinking it must be somewhere hidden (honestly, I didn't look to much), I bought it together with the two engine and one trans
I replaced the three and after a short search on the forum I realized the torque mount is nowhere to be found on duratecs.
I could have left it off (not a lot of money wasted on it) but three things made me look further:
1: I bought the "lesser" brand of mounts (Anchor instead of DEA) and they were already on the car and a torque mount would have helped prolong their life
2: the holes for the screws holding the "chassis" bracket are there anyway
3: around here (Baltimore), we have a few "u-pull" junkyards where for 1$ you can do whatever you want ...
That being said, Sunday I went to one. I took the brackets (12$) from a Vulcan and went home to see what can I do. Three hours of work later, the conclusion is that it can be done (adapted):
Here is some info and pics:
This is the picture:
Here's how you can adapt it:
1: Throw away the right metal stick (the with the longest screw going through it) - there's nothing to connect it to (maybe fabricate a custom one but it will be at an angle and it won't help too much); from now on, you're only working with the big black part
2: Bend the big metal part the other way; as you look at the linked picture, the lower left part of it is higher than the upper right (as seen in the picture); the offset is about 5mm; it needs to be the same but the other way (a blow torch helps a lot)
3: As you look at the power steering pump, you can see three bolts going into the engine (there might be a forth one underneath) - take out the one closest to the cabin; in order to do that you have a crank the engine bit by bit until one of the holes in the pulley closest to the shaft aligns with the screw
4: Bend the PS tube (that goes from the pump to the rack) about half an inch towards the engine
5: Take the black part, slide it between the belt and the engine and put the lowest hole on the only bolt you see on the alternator and slide it forward until it touches the PS pump; using an angle grinder, start cutting whatever it's needed until the part of it holding the torque mount's bushing gets about 1 cm away from the pulley; this will include the hole in the middle of it
6: Drill a hole in line with the one left after you took out the PS bolt (what I did was pushing it against the hole and using a WD40 spray with a tube, spray from the inside of the screw's hole - I got a round patch of WD40 where the hole should be)
7: The last thing is that the mount's bushing won't align with the original hole - you need to drill one more time - a bit higher than the original one
Please let me know if you have any questions!
With the brackets in place, you can see the engine moving about half an inch when revved in N. Almost nothing with the mount in place (maybe the part of the engine close to the trans moves a bit - it would be nice to have two torque mounts). The car feels tighter both when accelerating and braking but also there's a bit more engine movement transmitted through the chassis. Overall, I'm pleased.