What is this on the fuel rail and how do I fix it? - Page 2 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 11:34 AM
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Try an ACE hardware store or similar. Also Harbor Freight has O ring kits $8

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Automender12345 View Post
Try an ACE hardware store or similar. Also Harbor Freight has O ring kits $8
Our local home center has O-Rings by the single, you pick from the drawer. Tractor Supply does the same.

Harbor Freight kit poor quality.

-chart-
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by chartmaker View Post
Our local home center has O-Rings by the single, you pick from the drawer. Tractor Supply does the same.

Harbor Freight kit poor quality.

-chart-
I bought the SAE and Metric from HF to have around the house. With 20% off coupons is cheap convenience. Seem to be decent quality. Most home centers have single purchase ones in drawers.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-10-2018, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by PhilipPirrip View Post
For those trying to fix the leak, here are a few pictures of my old damper. I'm not going to replace it, new part is about $90. I just cleaned inside, hoping the leak will stop. Might look for a replacement o-ring, any idea who might have it? It has to be gasoline resistant (fluorosilicone?).

I would forgo trying to fix-up this dying part, and get a new one. I just got one at NAPA for $75. It seems that these parts are as rare as hens' teeth, as every part store had to order it in, and all the others wanted $135+


What in noticed is, around the crimp edge, is where the actual leaking was occurring. When I looked inside, there was a crack, which means it was leaking past the damping diaphragm, and getting to that seam. Since the fuel rail is under some serious pressure, it was slowly (in my case) pooling a little on the top. Really stank up the car when the blower and heat was on!

It took a week to get the part in, and I wansn't so interested in driving my Wife's mini-van...so I very carefully sealed it up with a bead of JB weld. I let it set for 12 hours (over night) and put it in, in the morning. No more leak!

Yes I could have left my JB weld special in place, but I figured that the part is there for a reason, so I felt inclined to go ahead and replace it. Beside, I had noticed my idle had become rougher, as of lately, and I was curious if there was a connection.
I replaced it, and I was pleasantly surprised, that when I started it up my idle was smooth again!



Yes I know there are those who feel the fuel damper isn't necessary, and I suppose it really isn't, except that it seems to help smooth out the pump pulsation, at idle.


If you are on the fence about paying the $75 or not, I would recommend buying it. It is worth not having fire in your engine compartment, and your engine with thank you at a stop sign.\
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-19-2018, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by devocite View Post
What in noticed is, around the crimp edge, is where the actual leaking was occurring. When I looked inside, there was a crack, which means it was leaking past the damping diaphragm, and getting to that seam. Since the fuel rail is under some serious pressure, it was slowly (in my case) pooling a little on the top. Really stank up the car when the blower and heat was on!


Beside, I had noticed my idle had become rougher, as of lately, and I was curious if there was a connection.
I replaced it, and I was pleasantly surprised, that when I started it up my idle was smooth again!
\

As it got cold, this stupid thing started leaking again and I came back to this thread. Same symptoms as yours - bad smell, found quite a lot of fuel on top of the engine; and rough idling at times. Just ordered a new part from NAPA for $57. Thanks for sharing your experience!
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