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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-23-2012, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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engine dies

Just got back from a hundred mile trip from the city. about 5 miles from home the engine refused to accelerate above 4 k rpm. when you hit the throttle hard the engine would go to 4k and then slowly lose rpm. within a mile it would not make 2k and would chug a bit and slowly lose rpm down t about 1200 and then it would pick up rpm and lose again. (chugging along) got within 1/4 mile of home and was climbing a slight grade and the engine died completely. Switched it off and back on (coasting about 3 mph) and it ran good again the rest of the way home and into the garage where it now sits. Fuel pressure regulator was replaced about 5000 miles ago.
I will likely change the fuel filter in teh morning but any other ideas would also be welcomed.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-23-2012, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocknchair View Post
Just got back from a hundred mile trip from the city. about 5 miles from home the engine refused to accelerate above 4 k rpm. when you hit the throttle hard the engine would go to 4k and then slowly lose rpm. within a mile it would not make 2k and would chug a bit and slowly lose rpm down t about 1200 and then it would pick up rpm and lose again. (chugging along) got within 1/4 mile of home and was climbing a slight grade and the engine died completely. Switched it off and back on (coasting about 3 mph) and it ran good again the rest of the way home and into the garage where it now sits. Fuel pressure regulator was replaced about 5000 miles ago.
I will likely change the fuel filter in teh morning but any other ideas would also be welcomed.
Don't know how to check fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Mine doesn't have a test port (WTF). I would still drain the fuel pressure and test the pressure from the pump. I just pulled the line coming out of the filter and clamped it to the pressure gauge.

Also note when I got my fuel filter, it had the wrong locking tabs come with it, and the originals broke when removing them. It was a pain to find replacements.

After pulling the tank and pump out, I realized it was out of gas. I did check the fuel pump to see I could hear it, and I did, but the fuel gauge said I had gas. Turns out it was just a faulty gauge.

Still pisses me off about the test port not being there, though.

You could just have a weak pump that intermittently stops and goes. Hopefully your rail has the test port. You can rent a gauge at autozone if you don't have one.

Last edited by meal4zombies; 03-23-2012 at 10:14 PM.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-23-2012, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocknchair View Post
Just got back from a hundred mile trip from the city. about 5 miles from home the engine refused to accelerate above 4 k rpm. when you hit the throttle hard the engine would go to 4k and then slowly lose rpm. within a mile it would not make 2k and would chug a bit and slowly lose rpm down t about 1200 and then it would pick up rpm and lose again. (chugging along) got within 1/4 mile of home and was climbing a slight grade and the engine died completely. Switched it off and back on (coasting about 3 mph) and it ran good again the rest of the way home and into the garage where it now sits. Fuel pressure regulator was replaced about 5000 miles ago.
I will likely change the fuel filter in the morning but any other ideas would also be welcomed.
If you have a separate relay for the fuel pump, you might swap it with another one to see if it helps. Could be a bad g round to the fuel pump,
clogged fuel pickup sock, or the pump itself.

OR, you got a bum load of gas somewhere with water in it.

Bob Urz 1989 Vulcan wagon (wife crashed) 1990 Vulcan sedan (sold running) 1993 Vulcan sedan (wife crashed) 1993 Vulcan wagon (beat up like Battlestar Galactica, drove to junkyard on a sad day) 1997 Vulcan sedan (down with multiple coolant leaks), 1998 Vulcan sedan (rescued from being junked three time with broken brake lines and bad rack, hydrolocked engine replaced ) down for now
Note: wives and daughters are dangerous to your Taurus health!

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012, 01:11 AM
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I should also mention that when I pulled my tank the two bolts holding the straps were extremely rusted on my 2003. The heads rounded off instantly using a 6 point socket. I tried using irwin bolt grip sockets and they chewed even more material off. I went to Sears and got some grip-tite super sockets and they did the job. I wouldn't trade those sockets for anything, and they seem cheaply made, but they WORK.

If you need to pull your tank, be prepared for this. Needed to go to NAPA and get two entirely new brackets and bolts. The straps are very hard to get back into position to get the screws back into the brackets. Lots of jacking and pulling on the tank and about an hour later I finally got them back in with new brackets and bolts.

I see you live in the northeast, so you're probably going to have it even worse than me with a '99. The top of my fuel tank was so rusted the paint just wiped away like it was made of wet cardboard. I could've seriously pushed a hole into the top of the tank with my pinky finger. Just be sure to label all the lines you disconnect; there's quite a few.

Order yourself a brass punch set from Harbor Freight. You don't want to use a steel punch to spin the collar retaining the fuel pump assembly because it could spark.

... and sondu your signature made me laugh quite hard.

Last edited by meal4zombies; 03-24-2012 at 01:15 AM.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meal4zombies View Post
Don't know how to check fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Mine doesn't have a test port (WTF). I would still drain the fuel pressure and test the pressure from the pump. I just pulled the line coming out of the filter and clamped it to the pressure gauge.

Also note when I got my fuel filter, it had the wrong locking tabs come with it, and the originals broke when removing them. It was a pain to find replacements.

After pulling the tank and pump out, I realized it was out of gas. I did check the fuel pump to see I could hear it, and I did, but the fuel gauge said I had gas. Turns out it was just a faulty gauge.

Still pisses me off about the test port not being there, though.

You could just have a weak pump that intermittently stops and goes. Hopefully your rail has the test port. You can rent a gauge at autozone if you don't have one.
Re:
"the test port not being there"

They replaced the test port with a pressure sensor. You can read the pressure through the OBDII port.

-chart-
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chartmaker View Post
Re:
"the test port not being there"

They replaced the test port with a pressure sensor. You can read the pressure through the OBDII port.

-chart-
Need one of those CAN OBD2 scanners? I'm kinda old fashioned. This if my first OBD2 car. Been putting off adding a CAN scanner to my list
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meal4zombies View Post
Need one of those CAN OBD2 scanners? I'm kinda old fashioned. This if my first OBD2 car. Been putting off adding a CAN scanner to my list
I am a fan of my CarChip. Cost about $80 and I can leave on for recording miles, times, how it is driven, (black box) and can choose 4 things to record each 5 seconds. So I can record fuel trims or O2 outputs as well as a list of other items.

-chart-

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001A0C7F0?ie=UTF8&tag=gosale-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001A0C7F0&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-24-2012, 09:56 PM
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Rocknchair, is this problem on the 99 or 04 tec? 99 has the fuel rail test port.
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