i need help with this P.O.S please - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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i need help with this P.O.S please

2005 ford taurus 3.0 vulcan

Ive had this car for 7months now and since about a week after i bought this car the car has been running so bad. When the car is cold it runs fine even at 70mph but not for long.(like 1min) and then the car starts to buck and jump and try to shut off and when you pull it over it will keep idleing but bad and slow and shuts off. but when it sits for about 30seconds and if you prime the pump it starts right up and will idle fine forever but as soon as you get it to about 40-50mph or 60mph it starts it all over again.

The ford dealer told me it was the fuel pump. Low fuel pressure. so $1000 later the car ran fine for about a couple of weeks and then did it all over agian. So went back and they said they would redo the pump(as in get another one) and fine that was great. But then it didnt even last a week and did it all over again. So went back and they changed the fuel canister vent valve(the one by the canister) and the fuel canister purge valve(the one on the firewall) and of course im now in the hole with over $1500 spent and not even fixed.

The fuel filter has been changed. And i changed it myself a second time after they did the valves and still not any better. I personally have changed the spark plugs and checked the wires but didn't replace cause they look fine and the car has 90K on it and air filter and did a throttle body cleaning and changed ECT sensor and crank sensor. Ive checked for vacum leaks just visually and cant hear any leaks. I can only figure that maybe something is faulty that we have put on but don't know which. The cats dont feel very hot when ive been running the car a while so i don't think they are stopped up. The engine codes i don't have the exhact code but it has been scanned and said that the car was lean mixture on both banks and wide open throttle code.

I dont know what else to do. I dont wanna keep playing the guessing game. I can't keep dumping money that i don't have at the ford dealer and really i don't have much more money to spend right now for it to just be a shot in the dark. I know how to work on cars but this problem is stumping me.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 10:05 PM
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First thing is to take it to any AutoZone, Advance Autoparts, OReillys, or what have you and get the codes read for free. Post what the exact code is here. Then you we can troubleshoot better.

From what it sounds, either a massive vacuum leak, bad coil pack, or possibly a bad/very dirty MAF sensor. A quick test is to remove the plug from teh MAF sensor. If it's better there's your problem, if not, keep searching, but get those codes before dumping more wasted money into it guessing what the problem is.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sousa632 View Post
First thing is to take it to any AutoZone, Advance Autoparts, OReillys, or what have you and get the codes read for free. Post what the exact code is here. Then you we can troubleshoot better.

From what it sounds, either a massive vacuum leak, bad coil pack, or possibly a bad/very dirty MAF sensor. A quick test is to remove the plug from teh MAF sensor. If it's better there's your problem, if not, keep searching, but get those codes before dumping more wasted money into it guessing what the problem is.

well really sucks is its money ford charged me cause they said this would fix the problem and they arent working with me on finding this problem out anymore without chargeing me more money that i don't have. You would think that if you bring in a car for repairs and they say its this and then they replace a part and its not fixed then you would think they messed up and would continue a repair free since they were wrong. But nope not with me anyway.

I don't have the code numbers but it was lean mixture on both banks and wide open throttle which is from me im sure from punching when it starts stalling so i can get it off the road.

I got some info and will be checking the EGR out and I didn't know how to check to see if the MAF is bad or dirty and thanks for that info on how to check it
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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BTW i know that it shouldn't be expected to be free to get my car fixed if it was the fuel pump broke in the first place and it could be that its just bad luck that it's something else but they arent telling me that there is another problem they are just saying it's going to cost more money for more diagnoses and im just done with for anyway. and i was hopeing for some good suggestions
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-21-2012, 05:54 AM
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I'd say MAF as well. If it were a vacuum leak, I'd think that it would idle crappy (which is when there's the least accurate metering) then run better with more throttle (when you'd have better metering).

I'd find a friend with a good scanner that does data logging. It would be helpful to see things like MAF counts & LTFT's.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-21-2012, 08:23 AM
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well really sucks is its money ford charged me cause they said this would fix the problem and they arent working with me on finding this problem out anymore without chargeing me more money that i don't have. You would think that if you bring in a car for repairs and they say its this and then they replace a part and its not fixed then you would think they messed up and would continue a repair free since they were wrong. But nope not with me anyway.

...............

I got some info and will be checking the EGR out and I didn't know how to check to see if the MAF is bad or dirty and thanks for that info on how to check it
You have to remember that a shop is there to make money. Their 'best guess' doesnt always fix the problem unfortunately, and they will keep charging you that diagnostic fee like it's going out of style..... because they can. I work on my own cars, however the company Freestar I dont touch. Case in point on how bad these dealerships can be......... Took the van in cause it had a torque converter shutter. They charged the company $145 to 'diagnose' the problem. Now I know it's common to happen when the fluid is old, or if someone uses the wrong fluid when doing a drop/fill(car was taken to a mom and pop shop before I got it). Their 'diagnosis' ...... a new trans at $3300(and they said nothing about replacing the converter). I told them EXACTLY what it was, which they didnt want to hear. So I tell them to flush the trans and make sure they put MerconV in it. Here I am 30K miles later, no issues, no chatter. Now there is a recall for the converter from Ford....... but what the hell did I know? Cause I'm not a Ford tech....... The last time I went in I had a problem with the shifter being hard to pull out of park.... they say it's the shifter cable. Ok, $250 later it' still doing the same exact thing, so the next time I go there I'm going to have to put my foot in someone's ass to get them to fix it properly.

But my reason for that rant is to show that just because they are a dealer and supposed "FORD technicians" doesnt mean they are 100% right. They are in the buisness for making money and all that means is they are trying to get as much of it out of you as they can. That's why sites like this are great because it helps you solve the problem and save gobbs of money in the process.

John
2007 Pontiac Torrent, 2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-21-2012, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sousa632 View Post
You have to remember that a shop is there to make money. Their 'best guess' doesnt always fix the problem unfortunately, and they will keep charging you that diagnostic fee like it's going out of style..... because they can. I work on my own cars, however the company Freestar I dont touch. Case in point on how bad these dealerships can be......... Took the van in cause it had a torque converter shutter. They charged the company $145 to 'diagnose' the problem. Now I know it's common to happen when the fluid is old, or if someone uses the wrong fluid when doing a drop/fill(car was taken to a mom and pop shop before I got it). Their 'diagnosis' ...... a new trans at $3300(and they said nothing about replacing the converter). I told them EXACTLY what it was, which they didnt want to hear. So I tell them to flush the trans and make sure they put MerconV in it. Here I am 30K miles later, no issues, no chatter. Now there is a recall for the converter from Ford....... but what the hell did I know? Cause I'm not a Ford tech....... The last time I went in I had a problem with the shifter being hard to pull out of park.... they say it's the shifter cable. Ok, $250 later it' still doing the same exact thing, so the next time I go there I'm going to have to put my foot in someone's ass to get them to fix it properly.

But my reason for that rant is to show that just because they are a dealer and supposed "FORD technicians" doesnt mean they are 100% right. They are in the buisness for making money and all that means is they are trying to get as much of it out of you as they can. That's why sites like this are great because it helps you solve the problem and save gobbs of money in the process.
GREAT POINT!! yeah thats why im on here. I like to consider myself some sort of mechanic but i will be the first to admit that diagnosing isnt my strong side and i know its one of the most important parts of being a mechanic but its something iam working on and i do really appreciate forums like these
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-22-2012, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by sousa632 View Post
You have to remember that a shop is there to make money. Their 'best guess' doesnt always fix the problem unfortunately, and they will keep charging you that diagnostic fee like it's going out of style..... because they can. I work on my own cars, however the company Freestar I dont touch. Case in point on how bad these dealerships can be......... Took the van in cause it had a torque converter shutter. They charged the company $145 to 'diagnose' the problem. Now I know it's common to happen when the fluid is old, or if someone uses the wrong fluid when doing a drop/fill(car was taken to a mom and pop shop before I got it). Their 'diagnosis' ...... a new trans at $3300(and they said nothing about replacing the converter). I told them EXACTLY what it was, which they didnt want to hear. So I tell them to flush the trans and make sure they put MerconV in it. Here I am 30K miles later, no issues, no chatter. Now there is a recall for the converter from Ford....... but what the hell did I know? Cause I'm not a Ford tech....... The last time I went in I had a problem with the shifter being hard to pull out of park.... they say it's the shifter cable. Ok, $250 later it' still doing the same exact thing, so the next time I go there I'm going to have to put my foot in someone's ass to get them to fix it properly.

But my reason for that rant is to show that just because they are a dealer and supposed "FORD technicians" doesnt mean they are 100% right. They are in the buisness for making money and all that means is they are trying to get as much of it out of you as they can. That's why sites like this are great because it helps you solve the problem and save gobbs of money in the process.
Hah, that's a dealer for you. Not to bash on anyone, but I don't put any faith in ASE technicians. Thinking you know it all is a mistake, as most ASE techs do. Although I'm sure there are those who do know what they're doing, being cocky and ignorant is a common trait among them.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-22-2012, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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Hah, that's a dealer for you. Not to bash on anyone, but I don't put any faith in ASE technicians. Thinking you know it all is a mistake, as most ASE techs do. Although I'm sure there are those who do know what they're doing, being cocky and ignorant is a common trait among them.
couldnt agree with you more. I wish i could be totally self dependant on my car repairs but don't we all!? thats why i say i will be the first to admit that im not very good on diagnosing a problem i can do repair jobs when i know what to replace no problem. Ive rebuilt engines and done alot of repairs for people and have actually figured out problems on my own(its rare ) and enjoy doing it.

An update. My car got a new gasket for the intake runner valve and car is running better and is going to be replaceing the cam sensor synchro. no other vacum leaks can be detected at all and i couldn't even really detect the one on the runner valve but the gasket did look worn out pretty good and this car was used when i bought it so i wouldn't be surprised if it's been off before but not a new gasket was put on.

like i said the only codes i got are lean mixtures and not anymore low fuel pressure warnings and just a weird code stating wide open throttle but i believe its from me flooring the car to keep it going.

Does the wide open throttle code sound like bad TPS or does that mean the TPS is working just fine? I would actually guess it is fine cause its reading a wide open throttle plate which it is from me but just wanted another opinion on that.
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