Question about Head Casting Numbers on a 3.0L OHV - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-14-2011, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Question about Head Casting Numbers on a 3.0L OHV

Have a 2000 Taurus with the 3.0L OHV that, after doing a job I was hoping to avoid, I discovered has a failing head gasket on the the rear head.

My local machine shop charges $130 to have both heads machined down, cleaned and vacuum tested. The one thing that worries me about using my existing head is that due to the fact this may have lost a good deal of coolant at one point, I may have a hairline crack that I can't see with my own eyes and really opens up once the engine is hot.

Now, for a car that has 165,000 miles on it, I began to think about going the route of re-manufactured heads that should hopefully come with new valves and springs. I can get a head from Advance for about $150 using their discounts, but when both shopping online, and talking with staff in-store they aren't able to match up my castings.

The casting #'s on both of my heads is F6DE-GC,

At both Advance and AutoZone, this is the listing I am finding closest match:

Part # 2FW4
Head Cast # F6DA-GC; Right; OHV; Complete with Valves and Springs; 7mm Stands. Conical Valve Springs

This seems like the right match, given the conical springs, but with a casting of F6DA (which, by the way I can't find to be an actual casting used), I wonder if this is simply a typo. Unfortunately, their supplier was closed over the weekend and the guys in the store were unable to confirm.

Then, over at NAPA, this is what the guy was trying to sell me:

Part Number: MCY FOR3127A IMPORTANT INFO: w/ Casting # E6AE,w/ Casting # F6DE,Conical Valve Springs

What's throwing me off here is the fact it lists both castings, and that given the E6AE is older I would think they wouldn't be compatible.

So, my question is -- and maybe someone else has experienced this -- is the 2FW4 from Advance the right one, or the FOR3127A from NAPA? Or do I gamble with my head, and while I've got them off just do a valve/spring job?
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-14-2011, 01:10 PM
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Any decent shop that does the head work will use penetrating dye to detect any cracks and the vaccum test will also fail if there are any cracks, no matter if the head is hot or cold.

I wouldn't have an answer for your other question, I just felt that this needed to be stated because you may not need to replace the heads.

IMPORTANT NOTE : If your car is a FFV (Flex-Fuel) then you need to replace the heads with Flex-fuel heads, the FFV heads have a slightly lower compression ratio and other important changes.

Troy.


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Model: 2000 SE + SVG Pkg. without alloys
Color: Tropic Green Clearcoat Metallic.
Engine: 3.0L FFV Vulcan (2v)
Transmission: AX4S / AXOD
Mods: Mach Audio RCU and Sail Tweeters, Upgraded OEM CD player, Infinity Reference 6x8's in all 4 corners,
Centennial Headlight Mod, Green LED Gauges, Painted Gauge bezel and K&N Custom intake system.

Last edited by 00greenlx; 11-14-2011 at 01:20 PM.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00greenlx View Post
Any decent shop that does the head work will use penetrating dye to detect any cracks and the vaccum test will also fail if there are any cracks, no matter if the head is hot or cold.

I wouldn't have an answer for your other question, I just felt that this needed to be stated because you may not need to replace the heads.

IMPORTANT NOTE : If your car is a FFV (Flex-Fuel) then you need to replace the heads with Flex-fuel heads, the FFV heads have a slightly lower compression ratio and other important changes.

Troy.
Hi Troy,

I have rebuild several vulcan engines, with my last one being a flex fuel. I swapped the heads on the FFV but I have not seen any difference with the heads coming of the FFV and the regular "U" block. According to the ranger station there is that shape difference in combustion chamber. What are the other changes in the FFV head?

BTW I already have 20k miles on the rebuild FFV engine with, which I highly suspect, normal cylinder heads. . Car runs fine, although a little more rough then my other taurus. I bought the car with the engine already torn apart so never head a reference point.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-16-2011, 12:44 AM
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I would give these guys a call:
REBUILT 3.0 FORD V-6 CYLINDER HEADS RANGER TAURUS VANS | eBay
I bought an escort head from them and it was perfect. Seems like a better deal for your situation.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-16-2011, 05:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00greenlx View Post
Any decent shop that does the head work will use penetrating dye to detect any cracks and the vaccum test will also fail if there are any cracks, no matter if the head is hot or cold.

I wouldn't have an answer for your other question, I just felt that this needed to be stated because you may not need to replace the heads.

IMPORTANT NOTE : If your car is a FFV (Flex-Fuel) then you need to replace the heads with Flex-fuel heads, the FFV heads have a slightly lower compression ratio and other important changes.

Troy.
That is incorrect. The FFV head has a higher compression ratio, because alcohol burns better at higher compressions. It's 47cc instead of the regular 49cc.

Rebuilding The Ford 3.0L Engine
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-16-2011, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zuljin View Post
That is incorrect. The FFV head has a higher compression ratio, because alcohol burns better at higher compressions. It's 47cc instead of the regular 49cc.

Rebuilding The Ford 3.0L Engine
I stand corrected

1996 - 7/26/99 (with Methanol)
Ford offered a "flex-fuel" version of the 3.0L that could run on methanol beginning in '96. This head had a modified, heart-shaped 47cc chamber instead of the regular 49cc, oval chamber. This chamber was probably designed to work better with the methanol fuel that burns at a slower rate than gas, so you shouldn't substitute a regular head for this application if the customer is ever going to run the engine on methanol. These heads had 8.0mm valves along with the regular springs and retainers. They were F6DE-EB castings.


I'm still correct about replacing the head with the FFV head if you don't want to run into an issue running ethonol. Thanks for the info, I appreciate it, you learn something new everyday!

And to Napoleon1981 - Here is the info you requested (Taken from the link in my Signature);

Several design changes were
necessary to allow for operation on alcohol fuels. These changes
include a unique block material, exhaust valve seat inserts, wear-resistant
rings, alcohol-compatible fuel injectors specially designed
for high flows, increased volume evaporative canister, a stainless
steel fuel system, and unique engine calibration for ethanol
operation.

Troy.


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Model: 2000 SE + SVG Pkg. without alloys
Color: Tropic Green Clearcoat Metallic.
Engine: 3.0L FFV Vulcan (2v)
Transmission: AX4S / AXOD
Mods: Mach Audio RCU and Sail Tweeters, Upgraded OEM CD player, Infinity Reference 6x8's in all 4 corners,
Centennial Headlight Mod, Green LED Gauges, Painted Gauge bezel and K&N Custom intake system.

Last edited by 00greenlx; 11-16-2011 at 09:33 AM.
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