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-   -   Transmission Slipping Going Into 2nd (https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/87-engine-drivetrain/104480-transmission-slipping-going-into-2nd.html)

nissandude83 06-02-2006 01:34 PM

^^^ :werd: ^^^ and to add a little something to that "if u drive it hard, expect to pay hard" **** goes wrong on my car all the time one after the other and sometimes two or three at once but thats because of how I drive it so I don't complain. 3 out of 5 times its the drivers fault not the cars.

SpeedofSound18 06-02-2006 03:12 PM

Go buy a foreign car, pay hell for parts and stuff, and then have it leak out antifreeze on your driveway when you get to 90,000. Good Luck.

OH and by the way, why did u get a rebuild if you dont want and american car?

SableTuner 06-03-2006 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by c_hayhurst@Jun 2 2006, 11:25 AM
Well...

It's official: I need a new transmission.

My car is stuck in first gear, the speedometer doesn't work and the "Service Engine Soon" light is on.

$1800-2000 to replace the transmission.

Onl;y have 74000 miles on it, too.

That's it! I'm never buying another American car ever again!

The American car industry deserves to die. This is totally unacceptable.

wow youre a retard...1 tranny gives out early on you and you think all american cars suck because of that...

SableTuner 06-03-2006 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 93 Sable+Jun 2 2006, 12:32 PM--><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (93 Sable @ Jun 2 2006, 12:32 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-c_hayhurst@Jun 2 2006, 11:25 AM
That's it!* I'm never buying another American car ever again!

The American car industry deserves to die.* This is totally unacceptable.

I must comment on this since I noticed it after I posted.

Why don't you go trade it in for a $24k used Acura TL or MDX with a transmission that's guaranteed to fail on you.

How about an RSX with synchros in the transmission that prematurely fail after warranty and the owner is screwed. Acura realises there's a problem but won't do **** about it. my friend has his transmission rebuilt 3x in a 10k mile span with 40k miles on the car.

This same friend traded that car in for an 04 Sentra that's about to leave factory warranty. The transmission is slipping BADLY going into 2nd. Nissan is putting him through HELL trying not to fix it.

My Mom was f*cked by nissans precat failure on her 03 altima that started to take out her engine, luckily we got rid of it in time. Nissan also recognises the problem but won't help.

Or what about the butterfly screws that fall out of the same car and get sucked into the engine destroying it. This also likes to happens right out of warranty. And you guesed it, Nissan tells the owners to go f*ck themselves.

Nissan also has a problem with premature synchro wear on the SE-R sentras, but won't fix it out of warranty. Most owners get their trans replaced AT LEAST once during warranty. Go to a spev v message board and you'll find a 15+ page thread on pwners getting their transmissions replaced and also owners getting f*cked by nissan.

There are a lot of owners of imports out there having major problems too and lots that desperatly need help, but the media dosen't publicise it, and instead continues to talk about firestone tires on 10 year old explorers.

Be happy your fixing a problem with a car that you could have bought for $3000 easily while still in great shape. An import equivelant of the Taurus costs 3x as much to buy used, and you will sh*t a brick at the cost of replacing the trans in one.

I could go on, but I won't. [/b][/quote]
well said...

taurusse1995 06-04-2006 12:40 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by SableTuner@Jun 4 2006, 12:36 AM
wow youre a retard...
Was that nessisary? <_<


Replace the VSS and get back to us...before you spend 2k on a tranny when it was a 30$ part thats the problem.

EVERY CAR MANUFACTURER has there ISSUES...Its a matter of taste of the person. Im so Tired of people bickering over stupid Stuff.. :(

BlownEARdRUMS 06-04-2006 04:17 PM

My car does the same thing when the tranny gets hot. At any type of acceleration, it will hold first too long and then when it try’s to shift from first to second, it pops into neutral and RPMs Fly up (I try to keep em under 3.5k ) and it starts to get in gear slowly, then it slams into gear and then its fine in every other higher gear. (till I hit a light. :banghead: ) But if I can cruse for a wile, the tranny’s temp will drop a bit and it will be fine till it heats back up. It would never do it at night, (I guessed cuz its cooler out :x: ) but last night it did and I kind of made me wonder, is this it for my tranny. This doesn’t sound like VSS or is it???? Its been dooing this for about 3 months now.

93 sable 06-04-2006 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BlownEARdRUMS@Jun 4 2006, 04:17 PM
My car does the same thing when the tranny gets hot......
I'm not tooo sure about the VSS on your car, but I'm pretty sure it helps controll the transmission along with the spedometer through a cable. On the newer models you can tell when the VSS is acting up because the spedometer goes crazy or stops working, but on your car you can't tell when it's acting up by the spedometer alone, since it's cable driven.

I'd give replacing it a shot, can't hurt anything, especially if this solves your shifting problem. Also how's your fluid look? how's the level? Changing the fluid if it's dirty can't hurt anything.

BlownEARdRUMS 06-05-2006 08:18 AM

About 6 months ago the car wouldn’t shift out of first. So I took it to a tranny place my dads job uses and had them change the filter and flush the tranny. Worked fine for about 3 months then started have trouble shifting into second after the car would be driving around for a wile. So I added some of the Lucas tranny helper stuff, no change, just smoother shifts when the car wasn’t missing gears. So I bypassed the in-radiator tranny cooler and added an after-market one (with 4 80mm PC Fans on the back:D ). I now could drive the car longer without missing, but it still does if its the heat of the day and when at a light I don’t put the car in neutral. Then added 2 more coolers and all that did was lengthen the drveability a bit more. It now misses almost every day after long stop and go traffic driving. It never used to miss at night but I just started recently. The fluid is still looking/smelling new and at the correct level.

Jmajetich 04-16-2012 08:34 AM

Quote:

About 6 months ago the car wouldnâ‚„t shift out of first. So I took it to a tranny place my dads job uses and had them change the filter and flush the tranny. Worked fine for about 3 months then started have trouble shifting into second after the car would be driving around for a wile. So I added some of the Lucas tranny helper stuff, no change, just smoother shifts when the car wasnâ‚„t missing gears. So I bypassed the in-radiator tranny cooler and added an after-market one (with 4 80mm PC Fans on the back:D ). I now could drive the car longer without missing, but it still does if its the heat of the day and when at a light I donâ‚„t put the car in neutral. Then added 2 more coolers and all that did was lengthen the drveability a bit more. It now misses almost every day after long stop and go traffic driving. It never used to miss at night but I just started recently. The fluid is still looking/smelling new and at the correct level.
Anyone come to a resolution with this set of problems? I'm having the same thing - more recently the increased temp after slip

LawnRanger 10-28-2016 07:32 PM

I have a 2003 SES DOHC and it had two occasions about 600 miles apart where it didn't shift correctly from 1st to 2nd. It was like others have said, where it went to neutral then shifted. Fortunately I let off the throttle before the "hard shift" like others have mentioned. Both times the vehicle was hot. So after finding this thread I decided to try the VSS. I ended up buying one from NAPA since the ones from Advance had bad reviews. I have had good luck before with Echlin parts. Be aware that there are two different models of this part depending on the transmission (count your pan bolts to determine if you have a 17 or 19 bolt pan).

The part is "hidden" behind and below the header pipe on the back of the engine near the firewall. Also you can't really see the connector. I couldn't figure out how to change it out. After looking on line I saw the procedure involves removing the tire, inner fender liner, alternator, crankshaft pulley, etc.. I decided I didn't want to do all this and went at it a different way. So this is why I am writing this post. I jacked the car up and put it on stands. I turned the wheels to the right. I went under the car and with my left arm went through the axle opening and with my right arm went between the transmission and firewall. Feeling for the connector I was able to press the tab and pull it apart. I could not get to the sensor bolt from below so back to the top I went.
I removed the jack stand on the passenger side and lowered that side of the car a bit so I could reach over the fender. Basically laying over the engine and using my left arm with an 8mm 1/4in socket and very small ratchet I was able feel for the bolt that holds the sensor cover on. Then I pulled my arm out and went back in with a stubby flat blade screwdriver. By gently prying while twisting on the sensor it popped out.
Then put a little transmission fluid on the new sensor's o-ring and jack the car back up. From underneath I found I could drop the new sensor into the hole much easier than from above. I then, when back on top and twisted and pushed the sensor back into the hole. I replaced the cover. Then from below again, I reconnected the connector. Note: I reused the metal clip from the old wire.

So far its been 1500+ miles and its shifting very smooth now. I am hoping this have corrected the problem but only time will tell.

Some notes about the car: The transmission was rebuilt 45000 miles ago (when the car had 124000 on it) and I changed the filter and fluid about 9000 miles ago. Prior to the transmission rebuild I had the fluid changed every 36000 miles by a shop that used a fluid transfer machine and MercronV fluid. The part that broke in mine was a piece of steel that hold one of the valves in place. A $3 part for a $1500 repair. While apart they put in new bands, clutches, and torque convertor.

Hope this helps someone tackle this job since it cost me about $45 for the part.


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