Broken stud, warranty or not?
I know, I'm long winded.
I hope this is at least as entertaining for you as it is painful for me.
In July 2017, I bought a 2016 Limited Taurus with 8,800 miles and no indications of accidents as far as I can tell. No paintwork or adjustments that I could detect from top or bottom. Everything seems factory, great. It was a trade-in at a BMW dealer, clear CarFax. No service records but I know the local Ford dealership it was originally purchased from a year ago. It has 20" Ford alum wheels with Michelin tires but no lock lugs. Now I realize lock lugs aren't as effective as they once were, but for ~$25 a set, it might slow someone down or give them reason to move to the next vehicle.
I used a Harbor Freight (when quality counts, cough) click-style 1/2" torque wrench (about 18" long), a 2" socket extension & 3/4" deep socket (both pneumatic grade). Wrench adjusted to 100lbs. So I start with a set of chrome Dorman brand lock lugs, one lock per wheel. Remove a factory Ford lug, hand thread a lock lug and torque with the lock-key till click-click, move to the next wheel, simple. I think I was paying attention, pressure inward while rotating the wrench. But on install of lock lug #3 the lock-key slips out of the lug and the lug strips, lock-key won't stay in to tighten further. Crap (PG Rated version), how did that happen! Faulty heat treat on the lock lug? Am I Clark Kent's younger (and better looking) brother? It did not feel like I was even near 100lbs when it slipped/stripped. Whatever. I was able to remove the stripped lock (hallelujah) and then immediately the previous two lock lugs. I then went to re-install the Ford lugs on those three wheels. I don't recall which wheel I was on, 1, 2 or 3 but it was not the same wheel where the lock lug had stripped. I had put the Ford lug on by hand as far as I could. I put the H.Freight wrench on it and began to turn. Something felt different. Seemed like a lot of ratcheting. I remember thinking, "Should this have tightened up more by now?" And then I heard and felt a pop. Crap, did I just bust the rim? Did I burst a vertebrate? Nope, the stud. I had the Ford lug with the raggedy end of a broken stud in the socket. I looked at the rim and it looked fine, woohoo!
A few days pass and I'm at my Ford dealer. Same dealer that sold the Taurus to the original owner. Lug/stud in hand, I explain what happened and the counter guy orders the two parts. I tell him I'll have the dealership do "The Works" (oil & rotation) at the same time, cause I figure the wheel is coming off the car for the repair so maybe this will help defray costs for the dealership. I'm a nice guy. I show up for my repair & The Works and a different fella is working the counter but my appointment is in the system. The repair/service takes about 90 minutes and as I'm signing off I find they charged me ~$100 for the lug/stud/install and ~$40 for The Works. I did not raise a fuse with the counter guy but as I'm driving home it starts to get to me. I realize I don't have any proof or knowledge of the early history of the vehicle. So I can't prove no one ever spun a pneumatic driver on that stud. And I would like to think (and brag) that I am man enough to snap a Ford stud without breaking a sweat. But $100? is there an explanation anyone can think of for a stud to break like that unless there was a defect in the part? I had removed the Ford lug, installed the lock lug, removed same lock lug, and broke the stud on re-install of the Ford lug.
If this is warranty who should I contact the dealer or Ford directly or is there another level in between? If it isn't warranty does anyone know where I can purchase a red cape?