Late shift into first, high RPMs at start, and no one can figure it out... - Page 2 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 05:30 PM
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1996-99 does not have the "dog bone" torque strut as on 2000-07.

But don't worry, it's easy to install on 96-99 vulcan. I installed on my 97.

Go to JY, gather brackets & hardware from a 2000-07 with vulcan. Purchase new torque strut.

Strut tower will need to have 2 holes drilled to attach bracket the dog bone attaches to. Very easy to do and takes the stress off the motor & transmission mounts.

Late shift:

May be caused by failing shift solenoids on valve body. I'm currently experiencing a similar issue.

From a complete stop I start off in 1, then shift to D at 15mph, then shift to OD at higher speed like 45+mph or freeway and all is fine afterwards.

The torque converter clutch solenoid finally arrived today from RA. Replacing all 5 solenoids next Sunday.

Not difficult - Valve body does not need to be removed, only the cover.

Not costly - All 5 solenoids are under $150 total when using coupon codes from RA and Advance Auto Parts.

Hope this helps

Ray
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Last edited by TaurusRay; 06-08-2019 at 05:43 PM.
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 04:00 AM
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When I got my 1998 with DOHC V6 it would violently slam into first gear, but only started that after I'd paid for it (cash!) and was driving it out of the insurance office lot. Took it home, drained transmission, installed new filter. Then the first thing I put in was a full bottle of Lucas transmission fix, then topped it up with the proper fluid. Took a while but eventually it quit slam shifting.

A few months ago I suddenly started to run real crappy, so I installed new spark plugs and wires, cleaned the upper and lower intake, cleaned the IAC passage in the throttle body and upper intake. Installed a new Motorcraft PCV valve, new IAC, and new TPS. Also installed a new elbow hose from PCV to intake. Since then it's wanted to idle way too fast.

NEVER had any codes, even while it was acting like it was running on three cylinders.

A *partial* fix has been to do the idle relearn. Using Forscan and a USB OBD2 adapter I cleared the KAM. Next step is to start it and warm it up. Shut it off for at least five seconds then restart and run for at least two minutes each in these four modes. Use a timer like the stopwatch on a phone. The modes can be done in any order. (Fords with manual transmissions only do two modes, in neutral with AC on and off.)

In park with AC on.
In park with AC off.
In gear with AC on.
In gear with AC off.

Just put your foot on the brake for in gear modes. Don't touch the throttle. Don't move the car. What's supposed to happen is the PCM will 'sweep' the IAC and fuel etc up and down while it learns the settings to make it idle at the right speed. Around the two minute mark in each mode it *should* settle to a proper RPM.

That's worked to pretty well fix the idle speed when it's warmed up, but it did nothing to make it idle properly when cold. Until the temp gauge starts to come up a bit it wants to "idle" at over 1,000 RPM. Yesterday it punched itself up to over 2,000 PRM without my foot on the gas and hit 35 MPH before it warmed up then the RPM dropped to where it should be. It had to have the IAC pulled all the way open to do that. So until I can find how to get it to set itself properly for COLD idle, I have to treat it like it's a carburetor engine with an automatic choke and let it run until the temp gets up a little.

So try sucking a quart of fluid out of your transmission and putting in a bottle of Lucas, then do the idle relearn. Supposedly disconnecting the battery for a while will clear the KAM (Keep Alive Memory).
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Last edited by Galane; 06-09-2019 at 04:02 AM.
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Hi again, folks! The code was P0402, which I'm sure surprises nobody. I have not tested the EGR valve yet though so I don't have anything to report back yet.

Wanted to reply to this, though:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Automender12345 View Post
Is the IAC valve a Motorcraft brand, if not then you can check codes but you will eventually need to replace it again. I have been there trying to save a few bucks on IAC valves. Aftermarket valves mess up idle speeds and response.
Yup, it's a Motorcraft IAC for exactly this reason! I did get an aftermarket one, it didn't work right, and a mechanic both explained to me why and showed me why it wouldn't work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Automender12345 View Post
If engine is moving that much you also have broken engine mounts or bolts fell out of the front engine mount. Also the top torque strut must be bad since it should limit engine movement.
The engine mounts were indeed broken. I replaced all of them. One has broken again and needs to be replaced. Apparently it was a super cheap hollow core rip off. All of the others are sturdy heavy beasts.

The torque strut though... that I don't know. I'm unfamiliar with that and don't remember anyone ever mentioning it. I'll have to read up on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Automender12345 View Post
Leaking trans cooler should show a drip in the driveway
I thought this too, but they said "it's so small of a drip you wouldn't notice."

Back to checking for leaks and what not as soon as I can. Doing a lot of traveling for work and don't have my own garage or driveway to work in (poor car) so it may be a bit, but I'll update as soon as I can. I'll drive it to an AutoZone parking lot or something if I have time so I can check things out. Thanks again!

EDIT: Just noticed this has gone to a second page, haha! I've read everything else too, including about the solenoids and the other stubborn car needing some relearning, so I'll get back ASAP! Thanks!


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Last edited by RJM; 06-10-2019 at 12:14 PM. Reason: Reading is fundamental
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 06:24 PM
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Just a shot in the dark here but if the EGR checks out check the engine temp with a scantool and see if it's where it should be. A bad temp sensor stuck high or low could cause problems like these.
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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJM View Post
Hi again, folks! The code was P0402, which I'm sure surprises nobody. I have not tested the EGR valve yet though so I don't have anything to report back yet.

Wanted to reply to this, though:



Yup, it's a Motorcraft IAC for exactly this reason! I did get an aftermarket one, it didn't work right, and a mechanic both explained to me why and showed me why it wouldn't work.



The engine mounts were indeed broken. I replaced all of them. One has broken again and needs to be replaced. Apparently it was a super cheap hollow core rip off. All of the others are sturdy heavy beasts.

The torque strut though... that I don't know. I'm unfamiliar with that and don't remember anyone ever mentioning it. I'll have to read up on it.



I thought this too, but they said "it's so small of a drip you wouldn't notice."

Back to checking for leaks and what not as soon as I can. Doing a lot of traveling for work and don't have my own garage or driveway to work in (poor car) so it may be a bit, but I'll update as soon as I can. I'll drive it to an AutoZone parking lot or something if I have time so I can check things out. Thanks again!

EDIT: Just noticed this has gone to a second page, haha! I've read everything else too, including about the solenoids and the other stubborn car needing some relearning, so I'll get back ASAP! Thanks!
Have you not put a scanner on the car and checked once warm, your LT fuel trims at idle and 2500rpm? Have you a scanner that will record what the engine/pcm is doing from start to when it settles down. The measurements should show exactly the area of the problem. EGR codes or indicators can mask issues with the TPS and the throttle body.


You could also have a short circuit in one of the wiring looms. Do you have access to the Ford IDS?


What have you done to check or replace the DPFE sensor?






Tom in Dallas

Last edited by jazzwineman; 06-12-2019 at 08:59 PM.
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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 10:07 PM
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It is likely a dirty or defective MAF sensor. Seen it several times on the OHV motor.
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmydafreak View Post
It is likely a dirty or defective MAF sensor. Seen it several times on the OHV motor.
Could be a dirty MAF, but that seems to cause other faults and a defective one will throw a code. Again getting he temp to operating temp and then check LT fuel trips at idle and 2500 wold tell you much, including a graphing of the MAF, but without a code, doubtful it is defective.


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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmydafreak View Post
It is likely a dirty or defective MAF sensor. Seen it several times on the OHV motor.
Could be a dirty MAF, but that seems to cause other faults and a defective one will throw a code. Again getting the car to operating temp and then check LT fuel trips at idle and 2500 wold tell you much, including a graphing of the MAF, but without a code, doubtful it is defective.


TBB

Last edited by jazzwineman; 06-12-2019 at 11:12 PM.
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 09:03 AM
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It could also a very dirty butterfly on the throttle body. I saw a video just last night about it causing codes because the butterfly is not able to move/react/close as needed, or as expected by the computer.

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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TollKeeper View Post
It could also a very dirty butterfly on the throttle body. I saw a video just last night about it causing codes because the butterfly is not able to move/react/close as needed, or as expected by the computer.
You would more likely find the issue of a throttle being a TPS. A dirty butterfly would show up in the fuel trims and either you would end up with P0171 and 0174 or could go other way and get a P0172 and 0175.
The code P0402 points to the DPFE, but many mistakenly assume it is the EGR- due to the code;
Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) DPFE.


https://www.google.com/search?client...&q=dpfe+sensor

Easy enough to find, check and replace.
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