Replacing rear struts ? - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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Replacing rear struts ?

I am getting ready to remove and replace my rear struts. I want to put on new stabilizer end links as well. I have searched this forum as well as internet and several parts websites. The end links are offered as standard or heavy duty. I'm not sure how to decide. On some websites the standard and heavy duty are the same length, on others one is about an inch longer. Would either be OK, or are the heavy duty intended for taxi duty? Sometime this summer will do the front struts and want to ask your experience, did you end up shy on length and have to drop the subframe to fit new strut into knuckle? Thanks for your consideration. I went for KYB Strut Plus, hopefully a good choice.


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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 04:23 AM
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If you are replacing rear struts there is no subframe but the dreaded pinch bolt that may snap. Use penetrating oil and heat and work it out little by little. I have had good luck with cheap links in the back. Driveworks from Advanced Auto seemed to survive at least five years in salt belt. I actually used a two jaw pulley puller to push out the strut from knuckle but used the strut rod nut to protect the strut during the process. KYB are excellent, I like them.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 06:56 AM
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I went for KYB Strut Plus, hopefully a good choice.
I like KYB too, especially their Gas-A-Just (when are available).
Had bad experience with Monroes, maybe it was just my luck.

On my fronts I used the KYB Strut-Plus and it did improve the original mushy suspension by a lot.
On my wagon rear, I have different setup, so I had only the option to replace the shocks with Excel-G.

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For the rear end links they basically self adjust to the length so the length doesn't matter. As for heavy duty they should either have thicker bolts or stiffer bushings. You won't notice much difference either way. They are just a long bolt in a sleeve with 4 bushings, 4 washers and a nut.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boulderdentist View Post
I am getting ready to remove and replace my rear struts. I want to put on new stabilizer end links as well. I have searched this forum as well as internet and several parts websites. The end links are offered as standard or heavy duty. I'm not sure how to decide. On some websites the standard and heavy duty are the same length, on others one is about an inch longer. Would either be OK, or are the heavy duty intended for taxi duty? Sometime this summer will do the front struts and want to ask your experience, did you end up shy on length and have to drop the subframe to fit new strut into knuckle? Thanks for your consideration. I went for KYB Strut Plus, hopefully a good choice.


Scott
When you remove the pinch bolt: note in the pic, the indexing tab will be resting and rusted to the bolt shank. You will be running the threads against the tab. The weld will be above the Knuckle. Use a hack saw and cut the tab off at the top of the knuckle and it will then be free of the bolt threads. Lot better chance of getting the bolt out in one piece.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 12:07 AM Thread Starter
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I have watched several YouTube videos as well as advice posted here. I began spraying down the bolts, especially the pinch bolt a week in advance. I have watched them work the bolt in and out gently to remove corrosion. I am in Colorado, so not rust belt but they do use magnesium chloride on the ice. I have a normal propane torch, will that be hot enough? I don't want to break the bolt and have to drill out. I suppose patience is the key. I don't know why but got a killer deal from Advance Auto, $176.00 each at O'Reillys, $94 and some change a piece on Rock Auto plus shipping. Advance Auto $86.99 each, with free shipping and used the 25% discount code, came out to $141.00 for both strut spring assemblies with free shipping!!! $70.00 a strut spring for KYB Strut Plus with free shipping. Intend to do the fronts sometime this summer. Thanks for the advice and tips.

Scott
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 08:44 AM
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You need heat!

A propane torch won't do it! Oxygen/Acetylene is best, MAPP might work. The problem is rust packing up in the bolt shank area. Heat will melt the plastic threadlock on the threads, but the shank of the bolt is rusted undersize and will break. The ONLY penetrating oil to use is KROIL! It's expensive for a reason! Apply Kroil many times over a week or so before attempting removal. Get the bolt boss red at minimum before turning bolt and work it in and out carefully. GOOD LUCK!
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 09:36 AM
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^^^+1 on the corrosion on the shank. It literally fills the shank to hole clearance on all the eight rear struts I have done. I have a OA torch but key is to melt the thread lock and try to back out bolt at least a fraction of inch to let the oil flow into the joints and heat more and apply more oil. But you live in a different area so you may not have any issue. If you snap the bolt a left handed drill bit is the way to go. You put drill in reverse and drill and because the bit drills in reverse direction as it drill it will try to back out the pinch bolt. I used them two times and once the shank is drilled out the threaded portion backed right out. I used the snapped off head and center drilled it with a pilot hole and used it as a guide to drill center of the pinch bolt.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 10:45 AM
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^^^+1 on the corrosion on the shank. It literally fills the shank to hole clearance on all the eight rear struts I have done. I have a OA torch but key is to melt the thread lock and try to back out bolt at least a fraction of inch to let the oil flow into the joints and heat more and apply more oil. But you live in a different area so you may not have any issue. If you snap the bolt a left handed drill bit is the way to go. You put drill in reverse and drill and because the bit drills in reverse direction as it drill it will try to back out the pinch bolt. I used them two times and once the shank is drilled out the threaded portion backed right out. I used the snapped off head and center drilled it with a pilot hole and used it as a guide to drill center of the pinch bolt.

I have never twisted one off and I am in the serious rust belt. I use electric impact gun and go back and forth over and over until I wear the rust out. Doubt the gun will break the bolt. My very old IR gun gets hot by the time I wear out. I use wheel bearing grease on the cleaned out clearance hole when putting a new bolt in. I would not reuse a bolt where the shank has been rusted and made weak.


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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 10:30 AM
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I did this job 2 years ago. I too live in the rust belt. To heck with Locktite! I buttered everything with antiseize so suspension work can be done later as needed.
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