Replacing rear struts ? - Page 2 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 10:10 PM
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I used a strut spring compressor and compressed the strut/spring assy to get my fronts out and in. i bought an inexpensive compressor and had to cut the rods down it fit it all in the fenderwell. front or rear...ford didn't have a better idea! it can be a ball buster of a job to change 4 struts depending on rusty corroded bolts. I replaced everything...inner / outer tie rods, stabilizer links, total break job...rear brakes complete too, stabilizer links. tires and alignment by others. I've changed 4 struts on my dodge neon in 2 hours, i lost track of time on the ford...it was worth the outcome. the car value would have been exceeded if i had all that work done by a auto repair place.
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 01:47 PM
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I just finished doing this same job on a 2003. Before doing anything else, the night before I beat on the pinch bolt area with a standard steel hammer. I wire-brushed off all of the rust from the threads that were exposed and then, after all that, I applied copious amounts of PB Blaster.
The next day I used a large $50 electric impact wrench from Harbor Freight and the pinch bolts came out fairly easy. Took about 30 seconds each.
I sprayed Fluid Film into the strut clamp so if I have to disassemble, I wont need my son to jump up and down on the brake drum to work the strut off of it.
I didn't use any Loctite on the pinch bolt. No way!
After assembly, I sprayed Fluid Film on the outside of the bolts and most everything else.
I repeated the above procedure for the sway bar links to remove them. One had been broken off.
The sway bar links I used are Moog K700541 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit. Easy configuration.
I installed FCS struts 1336303 from Rock Auto. $49 each.

Now I have to hunt down the wire short causing fuse #28 to break. The fun never ends!
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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Replaced my rear struts/springs Saturday. I had done a lot of reading and thank you for your advice. I was pretty apprehensive about snapping one or both of the pinch bolts. I have made a career of breaking things with more force is better. I cannot claim experience nor ability as I have never done struts on a Taurus. I sprayed things down for a week in advance, used an electric impact wrench from Harbor Freight, sorry Snap On. The pinch bolts came out relatively easily, what a good feeling. I credit good luck along with a dry Colorado climate which is not as conducive to rust. It took me a while to align new strut with the three holes in the rear deck shelf. Tomorrow I want to replace new sway bar end links. I have read and watched some video. Right now car is on two jack stands with the suspension hanging. The end link is about 11 inches and the space to insert looks to be 6-7 inches. Someone said the suspension needs to be compressed to create more space. Another video showed using a 4 foot length of pipe to pry down on the sway bar. The bolts to the sway bar bushings look in pretty good shape. Would rather not loosen them but probably can. What is best method to install the rear end links, compress rear suspension and use pry bar??? Thank you.

Scott
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boulderdentist View Post
Replaced my rear struts/springs Saturday. I had done a lot of reading and thank you for your advice. I was pretty apprehensive about snapping one or both of the pinch bolts. I have made a career of breaking things with more force is better. I cannot claim experience nor ability as I have never done struts on a Taurus. I sprayed things down for a week in advance, used an electric impact wrench from Harbor Freight, sorry Snap On. The pinch bolts came out relatively easily, what a good feeling. I credit good luck along with a dry Colorado climate which is not as conducive to rust. It took me a while to align new strut with the three holes in the rear deck shelf. Tomorrow I want to replace new sway bar end links. I have read and watched some video. Right now car is on two jack stands with the suspension hanging. The end link is about 11 inches and the space to insert looks to be 6-7 inches. Someone said the suspension needs to be compressed to create more space. Another video showed using a 4 foot length of pipe to pry down on the sway bar. The bolts to the sway bar bushings look in pretty good shape. Would rather not loosen them but probably can. What is best method to install the rear end links, compress rear suspension and use pry bar??? Thank you.

Scott
Rears easy, have to both at once.
-chart-
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 10:07 AM
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^+1 with Chart. Scott, just be sure to have both sides of the axle you're working on elevated/jacked up.
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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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Completed the rear strut replacement and new sway bar links on Sunday. Felt fortunate the pinch bolts cooperated. Sometime this summer will do the front strut/spring assemblies. I did the rear first because I thought I had a broken spring on the left rear, turned out to just be a broken sway bar end link. Changed out because 143,000 miles is enough on original struts and springs. Sometime this summer will do the front struts/spring assemblies. I have done reading, research, and video watching and wonder what the chances are to have to drop the subframe for the extra clearance to remove and install new struts? Do both sides of the subframe need to be jacked to drop the subframe? I think I read somewhere that four inches is the maximum safe drop for the subframe. Thanks to all of you contributors went from new purchase in June, 2000 thinking I may be able to check the oil to doing quite a bit of maintenance. I have done alternator, starter, fuel pump, brakes front and rear, spark plugs, camshaft synchronizer, air pump, rear struts, all fluid exchanges, and more. There is a lot of collective knowledge here, thank you.

Scott
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boulderdentist View Post
Completed the rear strut replacement and new sway bar links on Sunday. Felt fortunate the pinch bolts cooperated. Sometime this summer will do the front strut/spring assemblies. I did the rear first because I thought I had a broken spring on the left rear, turned out to just be a broken sway bar end link. Changed out because 143,000 miles is enough on original struts and springs. Sometime this summer will do the front struts/spring assemblies. I have done reading, research, and video watching and wonder what the chances are to have to drop the subframe for the extra clearance to remove and install new struts? Do both sides of the subframe need to be jacked to drop the subframe? I think I read somewhere that four inches is the maximum safe drop for the subframe. Thanks to all of you contributors went from new purchase in June, 2000 thinking I may be able to check the oil to doing quite a bit of maintenance. I have done alternator, starter, fuel pump, brakes front and rear, spark plugs, camshaft synchronizer, air pump, rear struts, all fluid exchanges, and more. There is a lot of collective knowledge here, thank you.

Scott

Scott, we've got the same car and I would love to replace what I think are the original rear struts (210K miles). This thread is really helpful, especially knowing which new ones you found to buy. Where did you get your new sway bar links? Did you replace anything else (I'm thinking probably bushings)? What specifically did you use to spray on the pinch bolts? If you have time to give any other pointers, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks!
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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 02:08 PM
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I went with Moog when I did all four struts two years ago. It really stiffened the car and the car sits higher.

Moog said it would settle down after 500 miles. It never really settled down. Not a big concern though.

I did the job because one of the front springs broke and poked a hole in the tire at 90K. Otherwise, the original struts still had more life in them.
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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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I chose KYB Strut Plus SR4011 which is the strut with spring assembly. Advanced Auto was less than Rock Auto at $86.99 apiece, Rock Auto 94.99 each plus shipping, O'Reilly's was $176.00 each. I ordered online, got free shipping to my front steps, applied a 25% discount code and paid $171.00 for the pair. No right or left on the rear, need two. I used PB Blaster starting a week in advance, someone posted Kroil. Be aware that the way it is constructed you can spray head of pinch bolt, inside there is a gap, spray there as well as back of bolt. I used Moog Stabilizer Bar links K8805 about $7.99 each. This is standard duty, there is also heavy duty design, these were easy to assemble and install. The stabilizer bar is bolted to the bottom of the trunk two areas with bushings. If not too corroded make sure they are tight. Two YouTube videos show the procedure very well. Ford Tech Makuloco, and South Main Auto. The stabilizer bar end links puzzle me, are warned not to exceed 15 ft pounds which seems like they will loosen up and rattle. When positioning the new strut had better luck when light out, could see the three holes on the parcel shelf better, rest strut on knuckle to support while you go inside to secure the three nuts. Brake line nut is 10mm, pinch bolt is 18mm, the strut rod nut is 13/16, parcel shelf nuts are13mm, stabilizer end link were 13mm.

Scott
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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 04:21 PM
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thanks again for all these details!
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