2001 Taurus - Clicking when trying to crank will jump - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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2001 Taurus - Clicking when trying to crank will jump

Hello All;

OK, this just started today.
I tried to crank the car and it just does the clicking noise.
(had to get a jump, started right up)

Went by Advance Auto and they tested the battery and it read the battery was bad.
They had to jump me off with one of their personal vehicles and I came home.

I took the battery out of my Ranger and put it in the Taurus.
My son came home and we had to let his truck run idle for about 15-minutes to charge the battery.

Cranked the car.
Ran it for about 20-minutes.
Cut it off.
Tried to crank it, and it did the clicking again.

Put jumper cables on and it started without any hesitation.

I changed the connectors out on it, to the new ones I had on my Ranger.

So, would this mean that both batteries are just to far gone (OR) is this an alternator issue?

Wayne
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Battery from Taurus reads: 12.68 (Not in the car)
Battery from Ranger reads: 11.45 (That is in Taurus now)
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 07:03 PM
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A discharged battery can test 'bad' even though it may just need a charge. Fully charge the battery, start the car with cables then use your DVOM to test the charge rate with a fully charged battery

It's SHO time!


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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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The Advance Auto guy showed me on the meter where it showed the battery was fully charged but bad.
All my meters are bad, and the neighbor I borrowed from a little while ago, has gone in for the night.
So, no more testing tonight.

I am going to try to get the car going tomorrow and run down where I get used batteries from and see what they can tell me.
If the batteries are both bad, then I can use them both towards trade in for a used one.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 08:14 PM
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Keep in mind, both the alternator and the battery could be bad

It's SHO time!


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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 06:28 AM
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Once the engine is running, what is the voltage at the battery terminals? Should be 14.5 V to 13.6 V with engine at 2000 RPM depending on ambient temp, battery state of charge, and a few other factors.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 11:14 AM
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If you are worried about whether it is the alternator and/or the battery, then pull the alternator and take it to Advanced Auto for testing. Somebody at Advanced Auto should be able to tell you if the alternator is bad, and it isn't all that difficult to take the alternator out.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 01:19 AM Thread Starter
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@fabsroman
I replaced the Alt about 7-yrs ago.
So, I know the fun of taking it out.
Ford needs to be slapped for this design.

Tomorrow (Saturday) I will be able to test everything out.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carrzkiss View Post
@fabsroman
I replaced the Alt about 7-yrs ago.
So, I know the fun of taking it out.
Ford needs to be slapped for this design.

Tomorrow (Saturday) I will be able to test everything out.
fabsroman obviously has a Vulcan, he can have the alt in his hands in 10 minutes soup to nuts
It always pays to have your vehicle info in your user panel, it helps us help you.

It's SHO time!


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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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@jag1959
Thanks.
Updated it, never really thought about that section before.
But it is there now.

And yea, I have to remove the front passenger tire along with the wheel well, to access it.
It is a pain, takes about 4+ hrs from start to finish to replace one.
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