Rusted floor board - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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Rusted floor board

I noticed this today under my driver's mat.
It's 10 years old and 178,500 miles. I'd like to keep this as long as I can. The engine and transmission are still good.

I had purchased a new front wiper arm and a pcv valve to change in the spring.

Can this be fixed?

I was thinking about fluid film or por15.
It wasn't that bad 8 months ago.

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 09:36 AM
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Have you checked your front passenger floor?

Those tend to rust thru first.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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Ooh. Good idea. I'll pull up the carpet and check the opposite side

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 11:24 AM
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That doesn't look that bad. I have cut out the real rusty and perforated metal and pop riveted in new steel metal. All my three Taurus have the disease. In the rear diver side on my one 2001 the hole was only a couple on inches so I used fiberglass and resin to patch it. Not a real structural issue on that one.
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Last edited by Automender12345; 12-15-2018 at 11:35 AM.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 08:21 AM
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Your in the upstate salt zone, take a hard look at your subframe before getting too involved with floor repair, this way you know how advanced the ''cancer'' really is.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 12:14 PM
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The passenger side tends to rust out thanks to the a/c drain going thru the firewall.

The sponge gasket around the drain allows water to wick thru and back onto the interior passenger floorboard.

Then it rusts thru from the inside out.

Silicon caulk around the a/c drain coming out on the firewall stops that problem.

Siliconed that area on all the Taurus/Sable and Fusion models I've owned.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 06:57 PM
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A piece of sheet aluminum or thin galvanized steel, shears, and pop rivets and then slather on some roofing tar from the inside and bottom for a quick driveway repair. If the carpet and underlayment is good there wont be any tar odor once it drys.

Ive been spraying 30W oil all around those rear mounts for many years and so far they are holding up in NH salt excesses on a 95. I had to fabricate a thick galvanized steel angle piece for the right side on a 92....I shop at a local scrap metal yard in Hudson NH.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2018, 08:55 AM
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I've got an old Mustang that that really rusty when I first got it about 25 years ago. The previous owner patched the floors with a bent up stop sign and a license plate pop riveted in place, lol.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2018, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornswaggle View Post
I've got an old Mustang that that really rusty when I first got it about 25 years ago. The previous owner patched the floors with a bent up stop sign and a license plate pop riveted in place, lol.

Midnight acquisition of stop signs were SOP back in the 50-60's when I was growing up From 49 Ford thru 57 Chevy the trunks were the major rot area for me. When the step down bodies came along (actually first in the 49 Hudson) the floors went first.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-23-2018, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornswaggle View Post
I've got an old Mustang that that really rusty when I first got it about 25 years ago. The previous owner patched the floors with a bent up stop sign and a license plate pop riveted in place, lol.
I won't admit to how many cars I've sent with road signs or license plates patching. My 97 Cherokee has a license plate under the battery tray because the inner fender started to rust out. I wire brushed it, treated it with rust converting paint, primed, painted, and mounted a patch over it. License plates never rust out, so I should be good. Same for street signs.

I had an old Mercury Topaz that the trunk leaked and water would run under the back seat and collect in the back seat on the floor. Wire brushed it, and took an old pizza pan (from a shop) that had spent 3 years soaking up oil before I came across it. I buttered the back with roofing tar with fiberglass and sent it. Probably more solid than the original floor.

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