2007 ford taurus intermittent stalling and intermittent rough idle. - Page 3 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #21 of 51 (permalink) Old 12-13-2018, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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Ford has used "internal" regulators for many years. See pic. This is for the DOHC and also used on Ford V-8 vehicles. Vulcans use a different one but same issue. The three regs in the pic will bolt on the Alt but they are quite different and do not work in the wrong application. They are identified by color. Many cases of the wrong one being on replacement Alt. PCM cars ('02 and later) use the white one. Color code is for Ford parts, aftermarket may use different colors like blue, green, or orange.


My experience with the wrong Alt on a PCM car is: Light off for about 10 seconds after starting and then light always on. Charging volts 13.8. With correct Alt will charge 14.4-15.0 on startup then taper off after some driving, depending on the outside temperature.


As a sidebar: my Buick has the regulator on the firewall in what they call the body control module. Put in a cool low vibration place.


-chart-
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Originally Posted by Automender12345 View Post
^^^^^+1 on the low charging volts. My 2006 charges at 14.5 volts plus at idle. Don't trust those parts store tests. This was my experience. https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-...ator-test.html
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You could have the slip rings 99.9% worn out and it passes. The Alt can turn up to 18,000 rpm but the test is only low speed. I have had 2 sudden regulator fails and one overcharging.


I only use NEW replacements.


-chart-
Here is the thing, I dont know a ton about vehicles lol. So here went my day, took back the alternator, It was squeaky and clicking when spun. The guy felt bad, refunded me and repurchased the new one, told me he will start spinning them before selling to customers. Installed, same symptoms and was a hell of a ride to get it back home... A friend kinda looked it over, said the exhaust smelled funny and was white. So i did further research. head gasket, so i grabbed some stop leak from Walmart ( I dont have anywhere near the money or tools for that repair at the moment). want to know the craziest stuff every, the check charging light went away along with the battery light within the car warming up and going for a drive down the highway, also 90 percent of the white smoke is gone now. I believe i have a air leak behind the engine somewhere, i can hear it clearly with a hose but cant really see from which it is coming. But could the check charging system and battery light come from a blown head gasket?? Least my pertinent question.

Last edited by Stephen Pump; 12-13-2018 at 10:24 PM.
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post #22 of 51 (permalink) Old 12-13-2018, 11:43 PM
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No the charging light went out with the new alternator. Stop leak really isn't too effective on sealing a head gasket. Time to do a compression check on the engine. Are you losing antifreeze? Did you ever replace the cam sensor?
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post #23 of 51 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
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No the charging light went out with the new alternator. Stop leak really isn't too effective on sealing a head gasket. Time to do a compression check on the engine. Are you losing antifreeze? Did you ever replace the cam sensor?
Thanks for all your input, its greatly appreciated. No i never did, I think the bad alt was causing the computer to spit bad codes. since alt changes, I have not seen the cam sensor code repear. only code I am seeing now is the front o2 sensor being stuck at lean. and looking at live data its stuck at .1 v, reving the engine does not change value, note i did replace this with a 13 dollar ebay o2 sensor. As for antifreeze loss, my res was about halfway to the fill line, unsure what the value was before. I used the stop leak, and topped it off for now. And my car is definitely running rich, i know that much. I am fairly certain I do have a vacuum leak I just have to find it, and i know its behind the engine somewhere and i still think i have a short somewhere. I can pull every fuse/relay from my engine fuse box except the two 60amp fuses (they show .68amps being drawn) which go to the box on the drivers side. My scan tool also says all my systems are ok, except cats which is inc at the moment. As for the compression test, man its almost Christmas and I am broke broke alternator 177 bucks helped that along. Real repairs will definitely have to wait least until January and what I have learned is dont trust the people you buy a used car from. Any other suggestions that may help my situation until January?

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post #24 of 51 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 07:04 AM
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Thanks for all your input, its greatly appreciated. No i never did, I think the bad alt was causing the computer to spit bad codes. since alt changes, I have not seen the cam sensor code repear. only code I am seeing now is the front o2 sensor being stuck at lean. and looking at live data its stuck at .1 v, reving the engine does not change value, note i did replace this with a 13 dollar ebay o2 sensor. As for antifreeze loss, my res was about halfway to the fill line, unsure what the value was before. I used the stop leak, and topped it off for now. And my car is definitely running rich, i know that much. I am fairly certain I do have a vacuum leak I just have to find it, and i know its behind the engine somewhere and i still think i have a short somewhere. I can pull every fuse/relay from my engine fuse box except the two 60amp fuses (they show .68amps being drawn) which go to the box on the drivers side. My scan tool also says all my systems are ok, except cats which is inc at the moment. As for the compression test, man its almost Christmas and I am broke broke alternator 177 bucks helped that along. Real repairs will definitely have to wait least until January and what I have learned is dont trust the people you buy a used car from. Any other suggestions that may help my situation until January?

Quick test. Disable fuel and spark. Throttle wide open. Crank and listen carefully. The starter gear noise pulses as each cylinder compresses should be all the same. Any skip and you have low compression on one or more cylinders.


-chart-
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post #25 of 51 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 12:07 PM
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It takes up to 30-40 minutes for all the modules to go to sleep after the key is turned off and the doors closed. You will get a significant current draw from the battery during this time. Same if the battery is disconnected..... extra current draw for up to 30 minutes. Opening a door, etc will reset the time until modules sleep. If you are tricky, you can put an ammeter in the batt lead without interrupting current flow to the car, or splice the ammeter in the batt circuit and wait 30 to 40 minutes to get an accurate amp draw with all modules asleep.
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post #26 of 51 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by chartmaker View Post
Quick test. Disable fuel and spark. Throttle wide open. Crank and listen carefully. The starter gear noise pulses as each cylinder compresses should be all the same. Any skip and you have low compression on one or more cylinders.


-chart-
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It takes up to 30-40 minutes for all the modules to go to sleep after the key is turned off and the doors closed. You will get a significant current draw from the battery during this time. Same if the battery is disconnected..... extra current draw for up to 30 minutes. Opening a door, etc will reset the time until modules sleep. If you are tricky, you can put an ammeter in the batt lead without interrupting current flow to the car, or splice the ammeter in the batt circuit and wait 30 to 40 minutes to get an accurate amp draw with all modules asleep.
Thanks for the assistance, I took the car to Monroe muffler for a free overall inspection. My front cat is pretty much completely clogged which is causing bad pressure within the engine, I think this is the reason for stalling and various other issue. I also believe I have a problem with the VSS, I pulled the adapter apart and cleaned and re hooked it up, no change is erratic speedometer and shifting. So with that issue, its my belief the sensor is bad, or alternatively its to do with a short or bad pcm. Maybe some other ideas or solutions?

Update: I think I may have found a source of the car stalling and not idling for crap unless i kept on the gas. was watching on live data the frp while idling funky and me pressing the gas petal was ranging from 100 to 500, all over the place. I unplugged the fuel regulator with same result. I double checked the insera switch and it was pressed in correctly. I also swapped the relays in the front fuse box, no different result. So is there a way send power directly to the fuel pump and see if it intermittently acts up, basically bypass the relay ect? weirdest part is if the car is completely cold started, it runs fine for the 1st few minutes.

Last edited by Stephen Pump; 12-18-2018 at 07:53 PM.
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post #27 of 51 (permalink) Old 12-19-2018, 08:43 AM
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Have you cleaned the throttle body?
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post #28 of 51 (permalink) Old 12-19-2018, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Have you cleaned the throttle body?
I ran crc and seafoam intake cleaners, no change.
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post #29 of 51 (permalink) Old 12-19-2018, 03:35 PM
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^^^ That's not cleaning the TB. Get a spray can of CRC TB cleaner from any parts store, open the throttle, and manually clean the TB and throttle plate with the cleaner and a rag.

IMO, Seafoam is a waste of money, and does nearly nothing except create a smoke show.
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post #30 of 51 (permalink) Old 12-19-2018, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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Does anyone know how to jump the fuel pump so I can test if my fuel pump is working properly, whether the engine stalls or not after jumping it? Would help me rule out a faulty fuel pump... Any help would be appreciated. Note the engine runs for at least 3-4 minutes on a cold start, before fuel pressure erratically goes up and down according to my scan tool. Then when the car dies, sometimes it wont turn over without priming the pump with key off, key on.

Last edited by Stephen Pump; 12-19-2018 at 03:40 PM.
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