2007 Taurus SE Irridium plugs or not? - Page 2 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-13-2018, 09:23 PM
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Suspect plug, wire, coil pack and injector in that order. ^+1 with Jeff above. Motorcraft or NGK for plugs and Motorcraft or Borg-Warner (BWD) for coil pack. If no success, consider compression/leak-down tests.
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-13-2018, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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thanks, that pretty much is how i am proceeding. Plug is pretty much ruled out at this point. I managed to do the wire change in the dark tonight and will drive it 5 hours tomorrow out to norwalk ohio for the promod shakedown. By then some new data will let me know if its the plug wire or not. they are MC 8mm so likely original and 11 yrs old.
What were the oe plugs? i found ap104's in there now. just trying figure if they were changed already.
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snosaint View Post
thanks, that pretty much is how i am proceeding. Plug is pretty much ruled out at this point. I managed to do the wire change in the dark tonight and will drive it 5 hours tomorrow out to norwalk ohio for the promod shakedown. By then some new data will let me know if its the plug wire or not. they are MC 8mm so likely original and 11 yrs old.
What were the oe plugs? i found ap104's in there now. just trying figure if they were changed already.
Your car has "waste spark" system, = coilpack.
In that, it sparks twice as often as the engine needs, and the rear plugs are "reverse polarity". Thus, fine wire double platinum is essential. All came from factory with fine wire, double platinum for a reason. AP104 or AAP 104 are NOT suited for waste spark systems. They are NOT fine wire.
When new they are "get by" at best.


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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 06:43 AM
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Plug Gap

If plug gap matters much, how did these plugs run this long? Pic not mine.
Gap +/- 0.005" would not matter in any reasonable condition.
Exact same ignition Vulcan/DOHC, one is .044 and one .054".
GM uses .040, .050", .060". They just round off different.
40= 1mm, 50= 1.3mm, 60= 1.5mm.
.044 =1.1mm
.054 = 1.4mm


In theory, closer gap more likely to spark under extremes, like low volts. But low gap has much less power in the spark than wider spark. Power of the spark goes up with the square of the volts at the ignition of spark. Wider gap, more volts. Wide gap more likely to not spark under WOT. = maximum compression pressure.


Class over.
Questions?
Most in jest!


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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 07:18 AM Thread Starter
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Very familiar with waste spark ignitions and understand how gap and electrode size affect spark. The responses here were the first ive ever heard of reverse polarity ignition spark.
So i am surmising from what has been said so far is that someone has changed the plugs to the current ap104. That being said i will likely change them out for irridium plugs.
Hoping my wire change moves the miss one cylinder over making my solution new plugs and wires and ending the hunt for red october.
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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by TAURUS SES GUY View Post
Bad injector bad plug wire bad coil pack check all
'07 + 65k = coil pack. Check for tiny cracks around base.
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snosaint View Post
Very familiar with waste spark ignitions and understand how gap and electrode size affect spark. The responses here were the first ive ever heard of reverse polarity ignition spark.
So i am surmising from what has been said so far is that someone has changed the plugs to the current ap104. That being said i will likely change them out for irridium plugs.
Hoping my wire change moves the miss one cylinder over making my solution new plugs and wires and ending the hunt for red october.
"Why then do we worry about coil polarity? Because the spark plugs do care which way the electrons are flowing in the high tension circuit. The spark plug has a thermally insulated center electrode (surrounded by ceramic). With engine running the center electrode runs substantially hotter than the exposed end electrode. Design of the ceramic insulator determines how hot the center electrode will run, leading to the designation of hotter or colder spark plugs. As electrons go, they love to jump away from a hot surface and fly toward a colder surface, so it is easier to drive them from hot to cold rather than from cold to hot. End result is a difference of 15 to 30 percent in voltage required to make spark "initially" jump the gap on the plug depending on which way it is going. So the spark plug prefers to see a voltage potential that is negative on the center electrode and positive on the end electrode for the very first hop of the spark. Oddly enough, this has nothing to do with polarity of the vehicle electrical system, but it is influenced by the common connection inside the ignition coil. "


Internet quote. The coilpack system fires two plugs from one coil. So one must be positive, the other negative. Forward/reverse.


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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-17-2018, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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New info following a 600 mile RT weekend. Before i left i had a stored code of misfire cyl 3. It persisted after swapping plug 3 for plug 6. I swapped plug wires 2 for 3 and 3 for 2. I still get a wonky miss after a cold start. Starts up idles high, let it settle and when put in gear it get wonky but clears up quick as it warms. all monitors set, no codes stored after the trip.
I cant really explain this. I would have thought that the miss would have moved if the wire was faulty. Stayed if the coil pack or injector was faulty. Guessing it is swapping marginal items...combo of plugwires and plugs.
Iridium plugs have been ordered. Ive heard you are not supposed to gap them, that they are "pre-gapped" and you can damage the iridium tip. True? I think i would still want to carefully check them. Same as any other plug? .044-.046?
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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-17-2018, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snosaint View Post
New info following a 600 mile RT weekend. Before i left i had a stored code of misfire cyl 3. It persisted after swapping plug 3 for plug 6. I swapped plug wires 2 for 3 and 3 for 2. I still get a wonky miss after a cold start. Starts up idles high, let it settle and when put in gear it get wonky but clears up quick as it warms. all monitors set, no codes stored after the trip.
I cant really explain this. I would have thought that the miss would have moved if the wire was faulty. Stayed if the coil pack or injector was faulty. Guessing it is swapping marginal items...combo of plugwires and plugs.
Iridium plugs have been ordered. Ive heard you are not supposed to gap them, that they are "pre-gapped" and you can damage the iridium tip. True? I think i would still want to carefully check them. Same as any other plug? .044-.046?
What is important is: the tiny, thin, platinum chips must be parallel. Any bending to change the gap can damage the chip or make them out of parallel. Gap +/- 0.005" in meaningless.


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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-17-2018, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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ok, so my original question was not really answered but now i hve a new one... where are the tiny platinum chips on the strap?
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