Coolant hoses 3.8 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-09-2017, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
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Coolant hoses 3.8

Hi,

I've spent three hours of searches of the site and have come up empty for the 3.8. Pretty new here. Looks like the 3.8 is called a vulcan? Spock would love that.

Mine a 1995 Sable 3.8. I have a y pipe going into the water pump and the end across the top to the thermostat? is leaking. That y pipe, you just replace it? It looks like all the pipes on the duratec posts I see are very expensive. for the 3.8, are parts available at a reasonable price?
The other end of that y goes to the heater core pipe.

Any tips on getting and replacing this part is appreciated.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-09-2017, 07:40 AM
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3.8 is NOT a Vulcan. 3.0 12 valve is a Vulcan. 3.0 DOHC 24 valve Duratech is the second common motor.
3.8 is a Essex. I've never owned one so I'm not prepared to advise you. Others will chime in when they see this.
In the mean time Rock Auto is a good research resource for parts.

John
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-09-2017, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby D View Post
Hi,

I've spent three hours of searches of the site and have come up empty for the 3.8. Pretty new here. Looks like the 3.8 is called a vulcan? Spock would love that.

Mine a 1995 Sable 3.8. I have a y pipe going into the water pump and the end across the top to the thermostat? is leaking. That y pipe, you just replace it? It looks like all the pipes on the duratec posts I see are very expensive. for the 3.8, are parts available at a reasonable price?
The other end of that y goes to the heater core pipe.

Any tips on getting and replacing this part is appreciated.
The 3.8 is called the Essex. Last year used in Bulls. I do not think RA has anything but rad hose. Might have to visit the local parts houses.

-chart-
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-09-2017, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys...the Essex. Last year used...interesting. I can see why. Deader than a door nail and loves gas. not to mention Ford was replacing the short blocks cause the head gaskets were all going bad.

Any tips on replacing? looks like a screw that goes into the top of the waterpump holds it in? You just remove that screw and it pulls out?

I'll start calling around parts stores.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-27-2017, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
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Bumping back up. Found the y pipe with a hose attached that goes across the intake manifold. That y hose with the o ring that goes into the water pump, you just take the retaining bolt out and pull?

These hoses that are crimped on to y pipes and directional bends and such, can you just dremel that crimp off and attach a hose with a clamp? You can't get all these hoses .

Bob
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-27-2017, 10:26 AM
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^ Bob, hose and clamp are fine.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-28-2017, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby D View Post
Bumping back up. Found the y pipe with a hose attached that goes across the intake manifold. That y hose with the o ring that goes into the water pump, you just take the retaining bolt out and pull?

These hoses that are crimped on to y pipes and directional bends and such, can you just dremel that crimp off and attach a hose with a clamp? You can't get all these hoses .

Bob
I used a Dremel with a Harbor Freight diamond cutting wheel to easily cut through the crimped on hose clamp, to fasten my new replacement formed heater hose, with a hose clamp. Just go slow so you don't damage/cut the hose underneath if you want to salvage it as a spare as I did.

My 94 3.8L water pump outlet "Y" pipe had a "O" ring seal, so clean it's pump side sealing surface & lube it up with uncut coolant, or a thin coating of good quality silicone grease, like GE, Dow/Corning, Permatex/Loctite, spark plug/ignition grease, so the "O" ring doesn't roll/twist up or get pinched/cut on re-installation.

On the 3.8L power & mpg. The 3.8L Essex isn't wimpy for torque, nor fuel thirsty, IF proper engine tune & tranny fluid & filter service is maintained.
My 94 3.8L will still yield 21-22mpg around town, 26-28 highway in Winter, 23-24 around town & 29-32 highway in Summer, running the specified 5W-30 Havoline oil.

So, maybe look to cleaning your MAF sensor, add a 20oz Techron Concentrate Plus to the tank, at the pump, before filling, so to get good mixing & fill with Texaco, Chevron, Caltex, or now Shell, all of which have some PEA in their fuel ad pack.
The additional Techron will raise the treat rate 10X above pump gas alone & can tidy up the fuel injectors, intake valves, combustion chamber & piston crowns, usually in one tank.
Combine Ford's 4.0L TSB de-carbon treatment of some spirited accelerations, with daily rpm run up's to 3500 for a mile or two during the treated tank, so to blow out loosened deposits & run most of the treated tank out.
I do this bi-annually on my 94 3.8L & 99 4.0L Ranger, just before their oil & filter changes, so to remove any debris, or Techron blow-by that makes its way into the engine oil, or sump.

Make sure your distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs & plug wires are in spec & in good condition & timing is spot on, no worn out distributor shaft play/wobble.

EDIT: Woooops I forgot the upstream/before cat converter O2 sensors. Check them for switching range & speed, if they're getting old & slow, like me, it's likely time to change them out with like design OEM sensors, as old & slow to switch, or not switching wide enough/over a wide enough voltage, will cause the computer to be behind where it needs to be in controlling fuel trim & that sure can negatively affect mpg, drive-ability & if corrupt enough maybe engine power output too!!!
Some additional thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.

94 Taurus GL 3.8L PEP204A
99 Ranger XLT 4dr 4.0L 5spd Auto
Payload & Tow Pkg

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Last edited by pawpaw; 12-28-2017 at 04:00 PM.
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