Bumping back up. Found the y pipe with a hose attached that goes across the intake manifold. That y hose with the o ring that goes into the water pump, you just take the retaining bolt out and pull?
These hoses that are crimped on to y pipes and directional bends and such, can you just dremel that crimp off and attach a hose with a clamp? You can't get all these hoses .
I used a Dremel with a Harbor Freight diamond cutting wheel to easily cut through the crimped on hose clamp, to fasten my new replacement formed heater hose, with a hose clamp. Just go slow so you don't damage/cut the hose underneath if you want to salvage it as a spare as I did.
My 94 3.8L water pump outlet "Y" pipe had a "O" ring seal, so clean it's pump side sealing surface & lube it up with uncut coolant, or a thin coating of good quality silicone grease, like GE, Dow/Corning, Permatex/Loctite, spark plug/ignition grease, so the "O" ring doesn't roll/twist up or get pinched/cut on re-installation.
On the 3.8L power & mpg. The 3.8L Essex isn't wimpy for torque, nor fuel thirsty, IF proper engine tune & tranny fluid & filter service is maintained.
My 94 3.8L will still yield 21-22mpg around town, 26-28 highway in Winter, 23-24 around town & 29-32 highway in Summer, running the specified 5W-30 Havoline oil.
So, maybe look to cleaning your MAF
sensor, add a 20oz Techron Concentrate Plus to the tank, at the pump, before filling, so to get good mixing & fill with Texaco, Chevron, Caltex, or now Shell, all of which have some PEA in their fuel ad pack.
The additional Techron will raise the treat rate 10X above pump gas alone & can tidy up the fuel injectors, intake valves, combustion chamber & piston crowns, usually in one tank.
Combine Ford's 4.0L TSB
de-carbon treatment of some spirited accelerations, with daily rpm
run up's to 3500 for a mile or two during the treated tank, so to blow out loosened deposits & run most of the treated tank out.
I do this bi-annually on my 94 3.8L & 99 4.0L Ranger, just before their oil & filter changes, so to remove any debris, or Techron blow-by that makes its way into the engine oil, or sump.
Make sure your distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs & plug wires are in spec & in good condition & timing is spot on, no worn out distributor shaft play/wobble.
EDIT: Woooops I forgot the upstream/before cat converter O2
sensors. Check them for switching range & speed, if they're getting old & slow, like me, it's likely time to change them out with like design OEM
sensors, as old & slow to switch, or not switching wide enough/over a wide enough voltage, will cause the computer to be behind where it needs to be in controlling fuel trim & that sure can negatively affect mpg, drive-ability & if corrupt enough maybe engine power output too!!!
Some additional thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.