Press on brakes, and steering wheel shakes - Page 2 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag1959 View Post
^+1
Car sitting for a year would have been a good thing to include in the original post


Yes, thanks.


I've had problems with both my Sable wagon and my Taurus wagon with front disks - vibration. The cheap ones did not work for me.


I have replaced the rotors, disks, and pads. And got better quality brand for rotors and pads.

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 07:14 PM
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Similar as others, warped, grooved or your rotors just have a problem. I replaced my pads/rotors with new, had what you describe rotors and pads looked fine, replaced the brand new rotor with another, fixed the issue. But with mine, I could tell which side it was coming from so swapping sides narrowed my issue down quick.

Could also be your caliper slide pins sticking or one of your calipers binding. But most likely, rotor.
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 07:41 PM
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Replace the rotors, clean the slides.



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Last edited by offroadohio; 10-31-2016 at 07:54 PM.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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@jag1959
Yeah, forgot about mentioning it when I made the thread.

I had the rotors turned today at H&H.
They told me that there was hardly any warping at all on the rotors.
I explained to them the issue I was having with the shaking of the steering wheel, and they told me that
With the resurfacing of the rotors should take care of that issue, along with the new brake pads.

I will post back once I put everything on, and test drive it tomorrow.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-01-2016, 05:20 AM
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It'll do it again in 2 weeks becuase today's rotors are not thick enough to turn. Soon as they get got they'll warp again

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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-01-2016, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by offroadohio View Post
It'll do it again in 2 weeks becuase today's rotors are not thick enough to turn. Soon as they get got they'll warp again

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Agree and you can buy new rotors (rust free) with tolerances not possible in a shop lathe.
Raybestos 0.0004" parallel.

But it is $$ vs life and death.

-chart-
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-01-2016, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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We will see guys, I am putting everything together here in a little while.
If it goes back to the same issue in 2 weeks, then we will look at getting new rotors.
And these Rotors are still good looking rotors, and still thick.
The guys at H&H told me that they "should" be good for many years.

We will see.
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-01-2016, 01:21 PM
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If they stayed in spec after turning they should be fine. Give the pins and slides some love on reassembly.
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-05-2016, 08:32 PM
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Make sure the axle hub surface & back sides of the rotors that butts up against the axle hub, are Both clean of rust & any nicks or dings. These mating surfaces need to be Clean & Flat.
Then install the wheels & snug the wheel lug nuts down evenly by hand, then use a Torque Wrench to tighten them Evenly in a criss cross pattern, to spec, in say three even steps.
I did the above on my 94 3.8L last year after installing new ceramic pads & replacing the rotors with Wagner, a nice piece of work. No more intermittent vibrations. Nice smooth stops from high speed.
Take the time to look up & perform the pad & rotor manufacturer bedding in procedures & let us know how it goes.
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