Blend Door/Actuator, Or Heater Core? - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-18-2016, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Blend Door/Actuator, Or Heater Core?

Okay which of that 3 could this possibly be? My heat is warm at best and will be hot for a minute after you turn heat in but after about 10 seconds it goes warm, I had my system flushed in hopes that if it was that heater core that may fix it, but after that flush it's barely any better jest wise, and I'm trying to get this figured out before winter, I've read it could be the blend door, or blend door actuator, but I haven't a clue hour to determine if it's one of the two, or a possibly clogged heater core.
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-18-2016, 08:26 PM
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If you have heat initially it is unlikely to be the blend door. What type of flush? If it wasn't the clinton flush I'd suggest doing a search for it
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-18-2016, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/98-s.../129385?page=1

Using this post for reference I'd it relatively easy to do that way? Not having to get hoses to attach to firewall?

The flush I doubt got that heater core good and I wanna get this done lol
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-18-2016, 09:02 PM
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Do you have a Vulcan engine?
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-18-2016, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Idk I have a 2003 Ford Taurus 3.0L V6 OHV Flex Fuel
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-18-2016, 09:43 PM
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The FFV is a Vulcan with slightly different fiddly bits. Do the Clinton flush, if the core isn't flushed individually, then it isn't really flushed at all
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-19-2016, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag1959 View Post
The FFV is a Vulcan with slightly different fiddly bits. Do the Clinton flush, if the core isn't flushed individually, then it isn't really flushed at all
+1 to the above. These OHV engines were prone to rusting which settled in the core and eventually plugged it up. Such a common issue that a bypass hose was created to bypass the heater core in the event that this occurred thus allowing the water pump and coolant to still cool the engine.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-19-2016, 07:32 PM
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Definitely doesn't sound like the blend door. I just replaced mine again(3rd time) and when they failed you would hear a clicking/popping in the dash. Do as suggested above with the Clinton flush.

John
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-19-2016, 08:23 PM
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I end up doing the flush without losing to much coolant. I buy a set of hose pinchers from Harbor Freight. I place the pinchers on the hose coming from the heater manifold that goes to the water pump and the other side of the manifold hose going to the thermostat location. I end up disconnecting the hose from the water pump to the heater manifold at the manifold. I then cut the hose going to the thermostat in half on the heater side of the pincher. This isolates the core from the rest of the coolant system. You then can do the flush. After the flush, I install a brass garden hose mender with worm clamps. I can do the flush after that in 1/2 hour and just a few ounces of coolant lost.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-20-2016, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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I hear a clicking and popping but only when switching to defrost, and when I have the air on I can hear a slight ticking very low subduing like you have a piece of paper in a fan, but it's barely audible unless I'm listening for it.

But now I'm having new issues, my heat is cooler after a regular flush, haven't done the heater core yet, and my corny temperature won't settle, it fluctuates quilt driving between 181 and 191 degrees, will never settle and be a consistent temp, and my air is cooler note with it doing this, and I can drive a good hour and pop the cap off of the reservoir and barely any air escape, it didn't even step to overflow, do I have a proudly stuck thermostat? Or possibly some air still in the lines?
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