AC Clutch Troubleshooting - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
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AC Clutch Troubleshooting

Since the old thread (IAC + P1000) was leading me down a rabbit hole, I thought it best to start a new one.

Firstly, über-thanks to all for this forum! It's comforting to know that whatever crops up, someone has dealt with it before, usually successfully, and sometimes even economically!

So with the car ('05, Vulcan, "U" code) now showing P1633 along with the P1000, we were pointed (by this wonderful site) toward the fuse for "AC Relay and PCM Keep Alive Memory". In his case, that was fuse #18, and surely enough, it was burnt out.

Many posts here mentioned that the thing would burn out repeatedly unless the AC clutch was unplugged at its source, or if the relay wasn't pulled. I suggested he do the latter, so he found one called #2 that said AC relay, and pulled it before replacing the 10A #18. He said, however, the car wouldn't start without #2, so he put it back in, & said it now ran fine. Until he pulled over for gas a couple hours later, and #18 blew again when he started it up.

It's hard to do this over the phone, without being able to look at the same fuse box with him. However, I was kinda suspect when he told me #2 was a 30A fuse - that sounds like a lot for an AC relay. Besides, I was envisioning a rectangular, opaque kinda relay switch, rather than a 30A fuse.

In any case, most of the threads I've found here point to either:
1) A burned-up AC clutch
2) A short at the clutch, or somewhere along the way from the fuse to the clutch
3) A seized bearing on the clutch pulley
4) A seized AC compressor.

I'm really kinda hoping for #2, as the others sound above my pay grade and/or interest level. Plus, they sound expensive, given that the kid is 600 miles away, and has no tools available, or mechanical acumen. FWIW, he's not reported any noise coming from the engine, so I'm thinking #3 and #4 might be off the table, for now.

How would you trouble shoot this? Does he need and electrical tester to check for amps/volts/continuity along with wires? Can he just wiggle the connectors and inspect the wires to see if there are any breaks/cuts/rodent teeth marks?

Thanks much,

FC


PS - I saw some rumblings about the IAC being routed to that #18 fuse with the AC Relay & PCM KAM. Who would decide that those 3 things even go together? I have a sneaking suspicion that the #18 fuse was the source of his original symptoms, rather than a bad IAC.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 09:13 AM
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pulled the wrong relay/fuse that's why it won't start (#2 is for PCM).
relay #33 (right bottom end of the power distribution panel) is the AC clutch relay.

IAC valve doesn't use the #18 fuse for anything but it could be affected by the shorted clutch relay which will cause the PCM to fail. You could be right that the IAC might be ok but the clutch relay shorting out is the likely suspect.


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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OK, I think we've narrowed it down to the AC clutch, rather than the wiring harness, because the clutch grenaded on him this afternoon. Lotsa smoke, & a shredded serpentine belt.

On the plus side, I googled-up a respected mechanic only 1.1 miles from where the car is, so he might be able to drive it that far without a serpentine belt from a cold start tomorrow am. Luckily, he has the day off.

What an adventure this is becoming!

FC
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Folically Challenged View Post
OK, I think we've narrowed it down to the AC clutch, rather than the wiring harness, because the clutch grenaded on him this afternoon. Lotsa smoke, & a shredded serpentine belt.

On the plus side, I googled-up a respected mechanic only 1.1 miles from where the car is, so he might be able to drive it that far without a serpentine belt from a cold start tomorrow am. Luckily, he has the day off.

What an adventure this is becoming!

FC
Seems risky. Without water circulating you can get hot spots in the heads and cylinder walls. You can install a shorter belt on and bypass the pulley. You would have to do the search on the forum for the size.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-13-2016, 11:12 AM
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^+1. Iirc, an 82-82.5" belt to bypass compressor.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-25-2016, 11:08 AM
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Question....has anyone installed the AC Bypass Pulley so we don't have to buy a shorter belt? (just paid for brand new one) If so a link to a video or any instructions will be super helpful!Afraid that we will need a lift and or have to remove the Power steering pump and altenator just to get to the pulley!
Thanks!
~Chawnn & Steve

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-25-2016, 11:14 AM
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A-1 Auto has a video tutorial.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-25-2016, 12:30 PM
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Price of a shorter belt might be the same as the by-pass pulley. Maybe use shorter belt and leave your compressor on in case you want to fix your system at a later time.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-25-2016, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheila View Post
A-1 Auto has a video tutorial.
Thank you Sheila!!!
Found the video and sent the hubby the link.! Hopefully he can get started on it before i get home and I wont have to do as much! If not i am more than happy to help. I love this forum! <3 You guys are always so great with info and tips!
I will let you all know if we can get it fixed!
Take care!
~Chawnn

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-25-2016, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by tread View Post
Price of a shorter belt might be the same as the by-pass pulley. Maybe use shorter belt and leave your compressor on in case you want to fix your system at a later time.
A Duratec requires the bypass pulley, the shorter belt only works for the Vulcan
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