2000 Taurus - Weird Noise Diagnosis - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-02-2015, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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2000 Taurus - Weird Noise Diagnosis

Hi All,

I'm trying to diagnose a weird noise that recently started. After the car is warmed up I hear a roaring noise (like what a 747 sounds like when flying over head). The roar gets louder and louder.

The noise is the same no matter what gear and does not increase/decrease due to throttle position. Once the car gets over 20mph the noise stops completely. Generally, but not every time, the noise starts at a stop light and ends as I leave.

At first I was thinking it was the fans, but tonight I stopped the car (no noise) and started the A/C. I could hear the fans kick in but did not hear the roaring noise.

Could this be the bearings on the alternator or water pump? I just did a coolant change two weekends ago. Level is good with no leaks from the water pump.

Update: It sounds just like this (but mine is a DOHC and the A/C is not running when I get the noise). I'm definitely thinking this is the A/C cause I had an issue a week ago where I got good A/C under 40 mph and no A/C at highway speed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b1168XKNKBc

2015 Subaru Outback Limited
2013 Mazda CX-5 GT
2000 Taurus Wagon SE




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Last edited by 1993MercSable; 05-02-2015 at 10:22 PM.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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That was it.

Bearings are shot on the compressor. Decision time: $1200 in parts/labor.

The car is 15+ years old but in great shape otherwise:

Recent Additions:
New Tires - 1 year old
Replaced 2 Coils (now all 6 are replaced in the last 4 years)
New Ball Joints

Is this worth fixing? I can't see being able to sell it as it is without losing more...fixing it would at least give us working car to sell (if we sold it).

Engine/Trans are in good shape. Trans gets drain/replace every 30k with new filter. We live in NC so no fears of heavy rust damage on the old girl.

What say ye? Keep or Dump?

2015 Subaru Outback Limited
2013 Mazda CX-5 GT
2000 Taurus Wagon SE




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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 06:05 PM
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That's way to much $$. Compressors are $300.
It's like just the bearing under the pulley, $30 part if fixed before it before it fails and destroys the AC clutch.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4 wheel disc brakes View Post
That's way to much $$. Compressors are $300.
It's like just the bearing under the pulley, $30 part if fixed before it before it fails and destroys the AC clutch.
The quote is mostly labor. This is the DOHC, they have to drop the subframe just to get to it. Compressor has to be removed to measure the tolerances so at that point, might as well replace the whole thing.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 07:06 PM
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You might want to investigate whether it is the compressor or the clutch. If you still get cold air the compressor might be ok. A clutch with worn out springs or worn bearings makes a lot of noise.
I wasn't sure from your video, but if you have a lot of red 'rust' dust on your engine parts, especially on the passenger side, that would indicate a worn clutch.
A vulcan is simpler, can replace the clutch assembly and set the tolerances without removing or disconnecting the compressor. I'm sure a DOHC is more difficult but I can't say.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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You might want to investigate whether it is the compressor or the clutch. If you still get cold air the compressor might be ok. A clutch with worn out springs or worn bearings makes a lot of noise.
I wasn't sure from your video, but if you have a lot of red 'rust' dust on your engine parts, especially on the passenger side, that would indicate a worn clutch.
A vulcan is simpler, can replace the clutch assembly and set the tolerances without removing or disconnecting the compressor. I'm sure a DOHC is more difficult but I can't say.
Not my video...it's the only one I found with the same noise. The dealership I use looked at it this afternoon, it's the compressor bearings.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 08:16 PM
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I say call other shops and get a better price. Or have a shop evacuate the system, replace the compressor yourself(can find used ones cheap or new from rock auto), then have them recharge. It'll save you TONS of money in the long run and keep you in the car.

I was questioning what to do with my wagon because of the rear exhaust manifold leak..... I ended up fixing it myself saving me well over $1000, and today it went back on the road. It all depends on what YOU want to do, or are capable of doing.. Dropping the subframe is 2 bolts and a 5 minute job.

John
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 08:36 PM
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^+1
For an intermediate skill level wrench this is a $300 repair. Don't be intimidated by it

It's SHO time!


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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-05-2015, 06:09 AM
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I did the compressor on my old '00 Duratec wagon without dropping the subframe.
I pulled the fans for working room.
That car was rusty so I didn't want to drop the subframe unless absolutely necessary.

John
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