2000 Taurus little heat - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-06-2014, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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2000 Taurus little heat

Got a 2000 Taurus with the vulcan. Pushing 190,000 on it now, so it's really done well for me. Runs pretty well, except heat. I had no heat prior to this weekend, so I changed the air filter, the old one was pretty dirty anyway and figured that it would help mileage.

But anyway, I've not had heat all summer, in summer who worries about heat though? Took it over to the mechanic for this, and they did a full system flush, and backflushed the heater core, they said. Total was 137, so not a bad deal really.

History on the car is that it had a new head gasket at 160,000 give or take(last summer). Had a new seal on the oil pan near the same time to deal with an oil leak.
Couple months prior to the head gasket, it had a new water pump.
It's also had a new battery and alternator as of late last year/spring this year. It later got a new tensioner pulley.

So between all those things, the car runs well, no major squeaks(does need new shocks struts more than likely), does not use much if any oil.

But they did the flush and backflushed the heater core, and said that when they did this quite a bit came out of the system. The heat went from no heat at all to a little heat, as in when the car is warmed up, heat is lukewarm.

Car gets driven close to 500 miles a week, does not overheat and does not seem to have any major glaring issues aside maintence things, like having the tranny fluid changed, etc.

The only other thing it does do is that it has a battery light that comes on. Not sure if that's a clue. Shop said that it's charging the battery from the alternator and not to worry about it basically that it could be almost anything. However, I remember reading online that these cars had a bypass hose for the heater core, but the guy there said they don't?

Wondering if I need to try another mechanic? Would replacing the blend door actuator make a difference?

Last thing, they did tell me before they did the flush, that the hose coming into the heater core was not hot, or not very hot. Any ideas?
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-06-2014, 01:43 PM
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Being a Vulcan the automatic thought is the heater core, search Clinton Flush. A few other things come to mind. T-stat stuck open, is the engine getting up to normal operating temp? Is there good circulation, are the water pump impeller vanes intact? Are the controls manual or EATC?

It's SHO time!


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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-06-2014, 01:44 PM
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most chain parts stores will test the battery and alt for free to make sure they are good. taking the car to a mechanic and ending up with lukewarm after a flush tells me something is wrong with that picture. a second opinion wouldn't hurt.

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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-06-2014, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Have read about the Clinton flash. I assumed that reverse flushing the heater core as they did would have had a similar effect. As far as the battery charging light, I've had it tested at a Wal-Mart and O'Reilly auto parts store as well, both of the testers showed normal loads and charging.

As far as thermostat and what not, thermostat was replaced when they changed the head gasket last year so it's a newer one. with the water pump, not sure, it was replaced shortly before the head gasket went. Could there have been damage to it from when the engine overheated when the head gasket went out?

Forgot to say that, but when they replaced the head gasket, they had the heads machined etc and its run ok since.

Also toward the beginning of summer I did use a diy ac recharge kit, it seems like things started around that time but I would think that would not have caused that?

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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-06-2014, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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A couple of things I forgot to answer on last post. As far as operating temperature, the car within about 5 minutes of driving will heat up to normal temperature, a little under halfway up the temp gauge, and stays there.

As far as thermostat being stuck open, not sure about that, again, it's a newer on that was put in last year when the head gasket was done. I know a chevy beretta I had a few years back had a lazy thermostat that would stick closed at times and then open and be ok, so the engine would heat up, then when you gave it some gas, would go to normal. The Taurus does not act that way.

The water pump, again, I'm not sure there either, but it was done a few months before the head gasket went. The engine did overheat when the head gasket went, was going highway speed at 65 mph, engine started getting hot, pulled off not knowing what was happening, checked antifreeze level, added more antifreeze, started the car back up, seemed to be at an ok temp and all, so I went on. About 5 miles later, got a trail of white smoke behind me, engine overheated, so I pulled off and shut it off. As I said, they checked and machined the heads and what not. New plugs, T-Stat and oil pan gasket at that time as well as head gasket.

Could the water pump have suffered due to the overheat?

Definitely want to get it fixed when I can. As I told my wife, I could probably look at another car sometime, but with all the money we have put into that one, and as good as it seems to run now, I hate to get rid of it and get into a payment when it seems to run so well and seems to have a lot of life left. Another note, I checked the antifreeze today at lunch, flush was done saturday, antifreeze for the most part still seems green. Seemed like it looked like a greenish blue though. Maybe just me?

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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-06-2014, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ohio_grad_06 View Post
A couple of things I forgot to answer on last post. As far as operating temperature, the car within about 5 minutes of driving will heat up to normal temperature, a little under halfway up the temp gauge, and stays there.

As far as thermostat being stuck open, not sure about that, again, it's a newer on that was put in last year when the head gasket was done. I know a chevy beretta I had a few years back had a lazy thermostat that would stick closed at times and then open and be ok, so the engine would heat up, then when you gave it some gas, would go to normal. The Taurus does not act that way.

The water pump, again, I'm not sure there either, but it was done a few months before the head gasket went. The engine did overheat when the head gasket went, was going highway speed at 65 mph, engine started getting hot, pulled off not knowing what was happening, checked antifreeze level, added more antifreeze, started the car back up, seemed to be at an ok temp and all, so I went on. About 5 miles later, got a trail of white smoke behind me, engine overheated, so I pulled off and shut it off. As I said, they checked and machined the heads and what not. New plugs, T-Stat and oil pan gasket at that time as well as head gasket.

Could the water pump have suffered due to the overheat?

Definitely want to get it fixed when I can. As I told my wife, I could probably look at another car sometime, but with all the money we have put into that one, and as good as it seems to run now, I hate to get rid of it and get into a payment when it seems to run so well and seems to have a lot of life left. Another note, I checked the antifreeze today at lunch, flush was done saturday, antifreeze for the most part still seems green. Seemed like it looked like a greenish blue though. Maybe just me?
Water pump blades do rust off and the first thing to get flow loss is the heater core.
Heater cores plug up. Rust from iron block engines.
And the heater can have the blend door motor fail.

-chart-
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-06-2014, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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I think the water pump may be under a warranty. So maybe the next place to go would be check the blend door actuator and possibly then have the waterpump checked?

Also, the guy at the shop didn't think the Tauruses had a bypass hose for the heater core. Thought I'd read they did? I guess I am asking because is it possible if they didn't clamp off the bypass that maybe the heater core didn't get a good flush? But the most telling thing to me was they said when they checked the hose going into the core was not very hot. So maybe it is a waterpump? Thought about replacing blend door actuator just to kill another possibility and they don't seem to be much or hard to do.

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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-06-2014, 03:37 PM
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Back flushing is seldom enough for a Vulcan's heater core. CLR or oxalic acid and the Clinton flush are far more likely to work. Yes it has a bypass hose and a mechanic should damn right well know that. The concern with the t-stat is it sticking open not closed or perhaps being the wrong temp. There is an over abundance of no heat threads here, do some searching.

Again, EATC or manual controls?

It's SHO time!


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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-06-2014, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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Manual.
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-06-2014, 06:42 PM
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Then a a physical inspection of the blend door actuator is the answer to eliminating that. Realistically the core is a far more likely suspect. If they were unaware of the bypass hose then I would hardly trust them to be checking the correct hose for the core. Check them yourself and hit us back

It's SHO time!


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