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-   -   Intermittent starting issue, probably entire starting system (https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-maintenance-repair/235793-intermittent-starting-issue-probably-entire-starting-system.html)

Essenar 08-07-2014 01:21 PM

Intermittent starting issue, probably entire starting system
So I have a 3.0 Duratec OHV in my SE. I had an issue with my starter, swapped it out. Then I still had an issue so I called a mechanic. That ended up being a bad idea. I paid $80 for him to tighten up the battery cables and I had to argue for that price. He wanted to charge me $150 and he didn't even use a voltmeter. So now here I am. My car started in the morning after I fought with it for five minutes.

Previous symptoms after new starter:
If I hold the key to ignite, it clicks intermittently and eventually it starts to crank. That's if it works.

If I am cold, it will have a LOT of trouble starting. I have to keep it clicking for a long time before it cranks. Once it cranks, it only needs to crank once or twice and she's off.

My yellow flag should be the battery symbol in the car. But it seems like no matter what I do I always have this light.

When warm, the car started fine, until today.

Now it still gives me **** cold. Like it will NOT start cold and I have to really fight with it.

After clicking for like 5 minutes it eventually gets going.

But now, it won't even start when hot. I just came back inside my work building after being outside for 10 minutes. It started twice in 10 minutes after repeated attempts, holding the key. Some times if I press the brake REALLY hard, it'll fire right up. But even warm it won't start right away. Now it won't start at all.

I think it's the battery but I don't have a voltmeter. None of the headlights are dim but now the windows are a LITTLE slow on battery alone.

The thing is, I also feel like it's the battery cables. I'm truly sick of this car. My friend has a Corolla with 170000 miles, 10 years older than mine, runs like a dream and has only needed a timing belt and general maintenance.

My car has had the doomed brake booster failure (which is a ROYAL pain in the butt to remove. Ford engineers need to be fired for how they designed the layout of the engine), also had an IACV which I replaced with a crappy after market part that means I can't run AC in town anymore or it'll stall. Then the starter, now this. This car was built to fall apart and I hate when people say "well it's a fleet vehicle" like that's somehow justification for this car falling apart. How? There's plenty of other fleet vehicles which are built to last.

jag1959 08-07-2014 01:32 PM

The Tec is a DOHC not an OHV so it may help in the future to clarify what you have. Your description indicates most of the hallmarks of a bad battery. Getting it load tested is the place to begin.

Jeff K 08-07-2014 02:15 PM

I agree 100% with Mark...... Bad battery.

ellmarsh420 08-07-2014 06:48 PM

buy a Motorcraft IAC and it should stop stalling with the a/c on.

galan747 08-07-2014 08:15 PM

Have the battery checked, If bad replace. I would also replace bat (+) (-) cable, It sounds like that mechanic was a hack..

Tom S 08-07-2014 10:40 PM

Bad battery or cables connections with high resistance.

Essenar 08-08-2014 01:18 PM

^That's what I'm thinking at this point. My friend tried to jump me, no go. I played with the cables for a few seconds after 20 minutes of trying to jump and it fired up QUICK. Zero problems.

Then I got home (after stopping at Autozone and buying cables) and now it won't start again. I replaced the cables but it's still not going.

Can anyone post a picture of the starter and how the cables look? I'm wondering if I didn't connect the starter properly. Also, which would cause all the electronics to come on but the starter not to go? Bad (+) cable between battery and starter, bad (+) cable between battery and fuse box, bad ground between battery and chassis or bad ignition cable between harness and starter?

I'm feeling like it's either of the bold ones. How would I force it to start with the battery directly to the starter? Which post on the starter do I touch?

jag1959 08-08-2014 01:46 PM

The cables may well be suspect but a bad battery would produce those symptoms and as trouble shooting goes testing a battery is pretty simple

Drew 08-08-2014 02:04 PM

Feel good in knowing you won't need to get another battery or starter for at least a few years, probably longer. I mean, I had to replace my battery about two months ago. The dead battery is a Motorcraft Max from 2005. I also had to replace the starter but the old starter is probably at least a few years old.

Essenar 08-08-2014 03:45 PM


Originally Posted by jag1959 (Post 2505897)
The cables may well be suspect but a bad battery would produce those symptoms and as trouble shooting goes testing a battery is pretty simple

But why would a bad battery prevent the car from starting from a jump? My friend has an Optima yellow top and his car was running and idling. It didn't even click or anything with jumpers connected.

Even in all my years, whenever I had a REALLY bad battery (like 2 bad cells and wouldn't hold a charge), the car would start when jumped.

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