Please help with an overheating issue - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 80 (permalink) Old 07-06-2014, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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Please help with an overheating issue

Hey all, I'd really appreciate some input on a continuing overheating issue on a '96 Duratec. My problem exactly mirrors this one: https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-m...ing-issue.html

The car isn't normally driven by me, but the water pump impeller shattered and the car got up to the H then was shut down. I removed the pump and found the impeller shattered. I have since replace these parts listed below (I always use OEM on my stuff but this car's owner is on a tighter budget):

Autozone Duralast waterpump
Oreilly Murray 192 degree thermostat
OEM Ford coolant bottle cap
Extended Life Antifreeze

The car was running perfect before the water pump failed now with that part replaced it's still overheating. Here are a few high points that I hope will aid some of you to help me come up with a recipe to sort this out. I'm monitoring the coolant temp via a scan gauge 2 rather than just the panel gauge.

*Purged cooling system with car running, heat full blast, squeezing hoses
*Heat blows VERY warm solid
*Engine runs at 225 degrees while driving without heat running
*Engine idles at 200 degrees with heat on blower motor high
*Squeezing hoses sloshes coolant in the bottle
*Both fan speeds engage and disengage at certain temp increments
*Running heat on full blast seems to cool the engine better than with it off or temp control on cool

Thank you guy's so much for the help in advance and I would really appreciate some input in helping me get this car running cool again.

Maybe this is one of those systems that must be filled via a vacuum and have the coolant sucked in.
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post #2 of 80 (permalink) Old 07-06-2014, 09:50 PM
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That does not really sound a lot like overheating to me. Are you expecting it to run at 195 all the time?

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post #3 of 80 (permalink) Old 07-06-2014, 09:53 PM
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My Duratec churns around 185-190F on the interstate, air on, under 80MPH normally with the ambient temp under 90F. If it's 100F, doing 80 with the air on, coolant's at 200.

I'd say his car is running too warm, definitely. Esp if needle is even going above the middle.

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post #4 of 80 (permalink) Old 07-06-2014, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banshee365 View Post
Hey all, I'd really appreciate some input on a continuing overheating issue on a '96 Duratec. My problem exactly mirrors this one: https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-m...ing-issue.html

The car isn't normally driven by me, but the water pump impeller shattered and the car got up to the H then was shut down. I removed the pump and found the impeller shattered. I have since replace these parts listed below (I always use OEM on my stuff but this car's owner is on a tighter budget):

Autozone Duralast waterpump
Oreilly Murray 192 degree thermostat
OEM Ford coolant bottle cap
Extended Life Antifreeze

The car was running perfect before the water pump failed now with that part replaced it's still overheating. Here are a few high points that I hope will aid some of you to help me come up with a recipe to sort this out. I'm monitoring the coolant temp via a scan gauge 2 rather than just the panel gauge.

*Purged cooling system with car running, heat full blast, squeezing hoses
*Heat blows VERY warm solid
*Engine runs at 225 degrees while driving without heat running
*Engine idles at 200 degrees with heat on blower motor high
*Squeezing hoses sloshes coolant in the bottle
*Both fan speeds engage and disengage at certain temp increments
*Running heat on full blast seems to cool the engine better than with it off or temp control on cool

Thank you guy's so much for the help in advance and I would really appreciate some input in helping me get this car running cool again.

Maybe this is one of those systems that must be filled via a vacuum and have the coolant sucked in.
I was thinking fan kick on temp was like 215 plus so not suprised that a scan tool might see 225 if the scaling on it was off a tad. I would not want to see that high of accurate temp with good constant airflow through the radiator.

2006 Vulcan 64k GF daily driver
2003 Vulcan 92k My daily driver
2000 Vulcan 115k saved from the scrap yard
1991 3.8 207k drove to junk yard, 1988 Vulcan lost in divorce
2009 Impala 3.0 18k my nice car
1996 F250 Powerstroke my toy-pristine lots of mods
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post #5 of 80 (permalink) Old 07-06-2014, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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The first fan stage kicks on around 210-215 and they higher speed around 220. The gauge needle is about 3/4 scale on the dash. It is definitely running too warm. I really don't know what else to do here.
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post #6 of 80 (permalink) Old 07-06-2014, 10:50 PM
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Think you got a bad thermostat perhaps? I think others have had issues with some of the aftermarket thermostats.

2006 Vulcan 64k GF daily driver
2003 Vulcan 92k My daily driver
2000 Vulcan 115k saved from the scrap yard
1991 3.8 207k drove to junk yard, 1988 Vulcan lost in divorce
2009 Impala 3.0 18k my nice car
1996 F250 Powerstroke my toy-pristine lots of mods
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post #7 of 80 (permalink) Old 07-06-2014, 10:54 PM
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Pull a few spark plugs and take a look. Do they show signs of running too hot? It may be the ignition timing being over advanced. That can cause hot running.
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post #8 of 80 (permalink) Old 07-07-2014, 04:44 AM Thread Starter
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Tom, I was thinking about that but have seen a few threads having the same issue as me and they buy a motorcraft and still run hot.

I'll look at a plug or two, I didn't think timing would change much being all commuter controlled but I want to rule out all possibilities.
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post #9 of 80 (permalink) Old 07-07-2014, 05:10 AM
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Do you have any form of Scan Tool?
Check the timing advance, as mentioned ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Check what the CTS has to say, unplug it, do both fans go full blast?
Not a big fan of non OEM thermostats, I'd change it for the OEM MC RT1104, less than $20

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post #10 of 80 (permalink) Old 07-07-2014, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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When I get home I'll see if my scangauge 2 can read timing and post the results.

On another thread with my same exact issue, the OP replaced his new aftermarket thermostat with a new Motorcraft one thinking the same thing and he got the same exact results. Being that this car runs exactly as bad with the aftermarket thermostat as it did with the original tells me the problem is probably not in the thermostat in my car. I'm a bit at my whits end on this one. It sure weeks to be pretty common but I havn't seen a solution for any of the same issues I've come across.

Does this system really need to be vacuum filled?
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