OK my cousin came to me with few bucks to get some tires for his taurus, luckily I had a set he could have. but when I picked up the car I noticed it was missing and of course the check engine light was on and flashing. so I had it towed to my house(I know flashing light is when converter damage is happening). upon inspecting it with my cheap scan tool he had mutliple misfires so I started pulling plug wires at the coil one by one to see if I had one that made no change, and I did, cylinder 1 and 5, no change when the wire was pulled. I then pulled the plugs notice one the ceramic broke dropped covering the spark area(nothing broke off though luckily) so I put a new set of autolite double platinums(I believe at .040) and a set of wires. tried to crank it up and it would not start.... triple checked the firing order on the coil and positions of each cylinder and everything was right, sprayed some either and cranked it again, heard a pop and had a small engine fire melted the snorkel... So I then realized there was some more issues at hand.. did a compression test and sure enough 1 and 5 were low, pulled the reed valve out of the comp tester and put air in the cylinders and found 2 leaking intake valves... got all that fix now im stuck with a now start still.. i am getting fuel and getting spark but its not starting and the few times it does start its running rough. to me it seems like the ignition timing is too far advanced... Why... because when you are cranking it it seems to hit a hard spot almost like it doesn't make it to top dead center ready to fire then before it pops then forces the engine backward or slowing the starter drastically and not letting it start right. right out the bat I plugged up my scan tool and according to it the computer is advancing timing 10 degrees during starting. I'm not 100% sure what its supposed to be at during cranking but I would assume 0 if not retarded to help rotate the engine, but its at 10. the reason other reason I suspect it has something to do with the timing is, if I Unplug the crank sensor(disables fuel and spark) the engine turns over flawlessly fast and no hickups, but as soon as spark is reintroduced it slows down the cranking and it hits those hard spots, it hits hard too like you can hear the flywheel ring very sketchy... I pulled the cam sensor out to see if it was damaged and it looks fine so I marked the position and tried turning it a little both ways and it seemed to help for a second then start hitting the hard spot again.. but again unplug the coil pack or crank sensor and it spins like butter.
is there any way to test some of these sensors?(I have a voltmeter, but no oscilloscope) I tried adjusting the tps
and broke it(not adjustable, lol) according to the scan tool it was at 17.9 throttle, so I though it needed to be adjusted. anyway its at the right voltage according to other forum suggestions. so that's a+ now. but still no start, tried a junkyard MASS AIR (since the snorkel caught fire, assumed maybe it damaged the MAF
) but still no start...
Still hitting the hard spot with the ignition hooked up, I'm scared to use starting fluid as that's what popped and caused my little fire, lol any Ideas would be greatly appreciated