Misfire in #1 and #5, cel sometimes when stopped - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-01-2014, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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Misfire in #1 and #5, cel sometimes when stopped

I have a 2002 se with the vulcan going on 185,000 miles. I pulled codes for a misfire in the #1 and #5 cylinders and misfire on startup. The car runs beautifully when on the freeway with no change in gas consumption. When stopped or idiling the car shakes a bit, and cel blinks sometimes, however upon acceleration or increase in RPMs everything is normal.

I've changed the plugs, wires, and coil pack but aside from better gas mileage it hasn't stopped the shakes or cel when stopped. I'm at a loss as to what's next aside from looking into new injectors or fuel filters.

Any suggestions would be helpful, and I do have a miltimeter at my disposal for testing whatever.

Thanks!

BTW I've also replaced the PCV and PCV elbow and checked for vacuum leaks with starting fluid

Last edited by richierich_931; 02-01-2014 at 01:32 PM. Reason: edit to add
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-01-2014, 01:41 PM
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we're not much use to you without having the codes. any major parts store should be able to do this for free. sounds like IAC or vacuum leak but we're like you, just guessing..

when the zombie apocalypse starts, i'll be in the graveyard playing the best game of whack a mole ever.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-01-2014, 04:49 PM
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Flashing CEL = missfire bad enough to damage the cats = BIG $$$ spent replacing cats if you keep driving it with the missfire.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-01-2014, 08:49 PM
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What parts did you use for replacement would also be my question.

2006 Vulcan 64k GF daily driver
2003 Vulcan 92k My daily driver
2000 Vulcan 115k saved from the scrap yard
1991 3.8 207k drove to junk yard, 1988 Vulcan lost in divorce
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-03-2014, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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P0301 - Cylinder #1 misfire, P0305 - cylinder #5 misfire and P0316 - misfire in first 1000 revolutions. Pretty much exactly what i said in my opening post but... you asked.

Interestingly enough I don't know if my cel lamp burnt out but it was off this morning and hasn't came back on. Never ever in my experience have I had a dummy light turn itself off or the car correct the problem itself without help.

Motorcraft coil pack, and wires, autolight plugs. All new OE parts.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-03-2014, 12:19 PM
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I just had 0340 code fix itself so it does happen. CEL should come on KOEO, if not blown bulb or instrument cluster, wiring issue.

when the zombie apocalypse starts, i'll be in the graveyard playing the best game of whack a mole ever.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-03-2014, 12:50 PM
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I'm feeling vacuum leak on this one.

Is there any difference in how it runs at cold start vs. hot start?

Does the shaking happen every time you return to idle, or only intermittently?

FC
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-03-2014, 01:35 PM
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Cylinders 1 & 5 corespond in that they receive firing signal at the same time. If you are sure the coil is good, I would suggest testing/inspecting the signal wire from the coil back to the PCM.

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-03-2014, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag1959 View Post
Cylinders 1 & 5 corespond in that they receive firing signal at the same time. If you are sure the coil is good, I would suggest testing/inspecting the signal wire from the coil back to the PCM.
^+1

The Yellow/Black wire from the coil is the control wire for Cylinders 1 & 5 going back to pin 26 on the PCM.

The first test I would do is to make sure the PCM is firing the coil. Unplug the connector from the coil. Hook one side of a test light to the positive battery terminal and the other to the pin for the Yellow/Black wire. While cranking, the light should be flashing. If the light does not come on at all either the wire has been completely severed somewhere or your PCM is bad. If the light stays on solid, there is either a short to ground in the wire or the PCM is bad.

Should the light not come on at all, you can test the wire for continuity by testing the resistance across it from the coil connector to pin 26 on the PCM connector. It shouldn't be more than a few ohms. If it shows infinity, the wire is severed somewhere. You can check for shorts by checking the resistance from either side of the wire to ground with both connectors disconnected. If it shows anything but infinity, there is a short to ground somewhere. If the test light wasn't flashing during the crank test, and the wire tests good for continuity and doesn't have a short, the PCM is the likely problem.

-Jonathan
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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So... Connected a test light to yellow/black wire, no flashing. Tested resistance on the yellow/black wire, about 1 ohm. No short to ground/break in wire.

I got a used PCM but after installation the car won't start. Is the used PCM I have a goner or is there some other issue I'm not grasping?
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