Cylinder 3 Misfire, Check Engine light, Rough Idle - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Cylinder 3 Misfire, Check Engine light, Rough Idle

I was driving and it started studdering while driving up hill. Then it started doing it whenever it was being driven. The check engine light came on and I had the code read at autozone, it said that there was a misfire on cylinder 3. They suggested that I change the spark plugs and wires, so I did. The check engine light remains on but it drives smooth. There is not a single problem accelerating, only when it I am stopped at red lights can I feel the engine jump a little bit. It's not constant, it's kind of a random thing. I can't find a solution anywhere on the internet, all I can find is posts about replacing the coil, but if it was the coil wouldn't cylinder 6 be messed up too? Or would it even start at all? Really stuck here could really use some opinions. I just want the check engine light to go away!

*I flushed the computer and the engine light came back the next day*

Last edited by BraydenM; 01-30-2014 at 12:00 PM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by BraydenM View Post
I was driving and it started studdering while driving up hill. Then it started doing it whenever it was being driven. The check engine light came on and I had the code read at autozone, it said that there was a misfire on cylinder 3. They suggested that I change the spark plugs and wires, so I did. The check engine light remains on but it drives smooth. There is not a single problem accelerating, only when it I am stopped at red lights can I feel the engine jump a little bit. It's not constant, it's kind of a random thing. I can't find a solution anywhere on the internet, all I can find is posts about replacing the coil, but if it was the coil wouldn't cylinder 6 be messed up too? Or would it even start at all? Really stuck here could really use some opinions. I just want the check engine light to go away!
If you don't have a code reader to reset the light, remove the ground battery cable for maybe 15 minutes and it will reset. Need driving cycle to get it ready for inspection if required.

The coil can misfire on one cylinder and not it's mate.

-chart-
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 11:56 AM
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If SIGNAL to the coil is interupted you would be guaranteed to loose spark to both, conditrions other than signal can take out one side. Do a drop test.

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Last edited by jag1959; 01-30-2014 at 11:59 AM.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 11:57 AM
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If plugs/wires didn't rid the misfire, coil's on deck. Very common to have a single cylinder misfire due to a faulty ignition coil. It's an old wives' tale the companion cylinder must also exhibit a misfire.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 12:03 PM
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I don't remember if you have a coil pack or coil on plugs. But if it's a coil pack, it tends to develop cracks and can cause random misfires like you're experiencing. People usually report a misfire on only one cylinder when it's the coil.

When getting codes at various places, your best bet is to come back here and look up the actual code. I remember getting a code for a bad EGR and they tried to sell me a new one, but it turned out to be a DPFE instead, but I knew better than to listen to them.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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If it's the coil why would the spuddering while driving stop when i changed the spark plugs and wires? and would the coil be to blame just for the studdering when idle? I also get garbage fuel economy. 220 miles to a tank if I'm lucky. I read that that might be the cause too. I know next to nothing about my car, only what autozone tells me.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 12:15 PM
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The answer is yes your coil could be the cause, do a drop test. There is a lot of info here and we are happy to help if you are lucky you will get harmless incorrect info from AZ, other than getting codes from them don't act on anything any of them tell you until you verify it. Do NOT get a Duralast coil from Autozone. Buying Duralast engine electronics is like playing Russian roullette with an automatic.

Check here for misfire info:
https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-m...-misfires.html

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Last edited by jag1959; 01-30-2014 at 12:23 PM.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 12:25 PM
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Read the misfire sticky if you have not already!

(Which jag just posted in the post before).



Likely you needed new plugs and wires already and then the coil was already bad which is what made it bad enough to need to do something about. When things are neglected for too long (plugs and wires which should be changed every 100k or less) you can have multiple failures. If a plug wire is arcing it can put extra stress on the coil too.

Do a drop test or at LEAST remove the coil and look for cracks on the underside. CRACKS = REPLACE COIL!

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 09:13 PM
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^+1 with Chart. If the misfire symptoms (sputtering, etc.) vanished after the plug/wire change and all you're left with is the cel, and you don't have a code reader, scan tool or Autozone won't clear the light (code), simply disconnect the negative battery cable for a few minutes then reconnect. If misfire code (light) returns, I'd replace the coil pack with a Motorcraft or BWD (Borg-Warner) brand. Hope you used Motorcraft or Autolite plugs/wires. Were there any other codes other than the p0303? May have Autozone recheck.

Last edited by sheila; 01-30-2014 at 09:17 PM.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
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Changed the coil and everything seems to be okay. Haven't had the cel come back on yet!
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