Intake manifold on 2006 is moaning on cold startup - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-12-2014, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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Intake manifold on 2006 is moaning on cold startup

I have had a problem of the intake manifold moaning for about a month now on cold startups. It sounds like the noise you can make blowing through a Shop Vac hose, low and deep moaning. It lasts longer the colder the temperature is outside and stops almost instantly after about five to ten minutes. I pulled the filter cover and the sound got ten times loader so I know it is coming from the intake. I have never heard a sound like this and know it is not a mechanical sound but an air flow resonance sound. I did try to use Sea Foam spray to clean the manifold before the noise because I was getting a popping noise one time before the moaning sound. The popping sound was after a 20 mile trip. It stopped and now moaning.

I am starting to think it is related to the runner control in the 2006 manifolds but don't know enough about the way it works. I did remove a vacuum hose by the runner controller and sprayed Sea Foam in to try to clean that side of the manifold. I will see if this works on the next cold start. THERE ARE NO ENGINE CODES.

Does any one have info on the intake and how the runner system works and when it switches.
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-12-2014, 05:43 PM
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MOTOR Magazine Article | MOTOR Information Systems

best info I could find so far

2006 Vulcan 64k GF daily driver
2003 Vulcan 92k My daily driver
2000 Vulcan 115k saved from the scrap yard
1991 3.8 207k drove to junk yard, 1988 Vulcan lost in divorce
2009 Impala 3.0 18k my nice car
1996 F250 Powerstroke my toy-pristine lots of mods
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-12-2014, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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^ Thanks for the info but not sure a Vulcan engine operates in that manner. I have done a little research on my own and believe on a Vulcan it is limited to an actuator and a butterfly valve on the back side of the manifold. I know you have a 2006 and it is on the passenger side of the upper manifold near the PCV valve. It is held in by two #30 torx screws. It is a cylinder that has a butterfly valve that must change the length of the runners based on the speed. I don't think it operates like a duratec engine with two runners per cylinder. I have found out that the o-ring that seals the actuator is prone to leaking and causes quite a few problems with misfires. I will be buying a new o-ring from Ford Part #87072 S91 and replacing and cleaning the valve. I didn't know this car even had this. I attached a few pictures of where the valve is located.
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Last edited by Automender12345; 01-12-2014 at 06:37 PM.
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2014, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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I was tracking down the moaning sound on my intake and I started to get a popping sound again in the intake. It seems to go away when I pull the power brake booster hose off of the intake manifold. I pull the hose and put my finger over to intake manifold hose connection. This hose goes to the vacuum distribution box and feeds the power brake booster and more. Any idea what could cause the popping sound. It is a rapid sound that is inside the intake air tube. Sounds like a check valve of a solenoid cycling and the valve is causing a noise through the booster hose.
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2014, 08:41 PM
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I did not find just what I was looking for but brake booster moan or popping produces some info on google. I will post a link if I find something spot on.

2006 Vulcan 64k GF daily driver
2003 Vulcan 92k My daily driver
2000 Vulcan 115k saved from the scrap yard
1991 3.8 207k drove to junk yard, 1988 Vulcan lost in divorce
2009 Impala 3.0 18k my nice car
1996 F250 Powerstroke my toy-pristine lots of mods

Last edited by Tom S; 04-27-2014 at 08:44 PM.
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2014, 10:46 PM
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I'd put a vacuum gauge on it and see what it says. Maybe you have a valve that is sticking a bit or something?

The thing on the gen 4.5 vulcan manifold is a tuning valve (IMTV). It turns 90 via the motor to change the intake tuning. Maybe you want to take that out and make sure it's not all carboned up.
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-28-2014, 07:01 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Tom and Behlinia. I pulled the intake a month ago and did a off car cleaning and looked at the runner control valve. All looked good. That valve opens at a higher rpm than what I start to hear the noise at. If I pull the IAC connector the the popping nearly stops. I don't think it's a intake valve sticking because it happens multiple times a second which would mean all valves sticking. I started to think a sticking booster check valve even though the brakes are fine. It also has a rock steady idle, can't see the tach needle move at idle.

I will start isolating the lines from the vacuum distribution box to narrow down the source

What sets the idle at 500 rpm when you disconnect the IAC connector. Is it just a fixed position on that valve. It seemed earlier year valves would shut off completely

Last edited by Automender12345; 04-28-2014 at 08:02 AM.
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-28-2014, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Automender12345 View Post
Thanks Tom and Behlinia. I pulled the intake a month ago and did a off car cleaning and looked at the runner control valve. All looked good. That valve opens at a higher rpm than what I start to hear the noise at. If I pull the IAC connector the the popping nearly stops. I don't think it's a intake valve sticking because it happens multiple times a second which would mean all valves sticking. I started to think a sticking booster check valve even though the brakes are fine. It also has a rock steady idle, can't see the tach needle move at idle.

I will start isolating the lines from the vacuum distribution box to narrow down the source

What sets the idle at 500 rpm when you disconnect the IAC connector. Is it just a fixed position on that valve. It seemed earlier year valves would shut off completely
When you unplug the IAC, it should get sucked closed so that the only air keeping the engine going is the air coming through the small gap in the throttle plate. Unplugging it should be the same as removing the IAC and covering the holes. If it doesn't stay running in that state, you have a vacuum leak, the throttle plate is dirty, or it isn't adjusted properly.
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by behlinla View Post
When you unplug the IAC, it should get sucked closed so that the only air keeping the engine going is the air coming through the small gap in the throttle plate. Unplugging it should be the same as removing the IAC and covering the holes. If it doesn't stay running in that state, you have a vacuum leak, the throttle plate is dirty, or it isn't adjusted properly.
It seems that on the 2006 the throttle plate is a tight shut off and the IAC actually does not provide a tight shut off. There is a small hole, maybe a 1/16 of an inch but that is not enough to feed an idle of 500 RPMs. Maybe there is a groove cut in the top area of the throttle body to bypass air.
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 09:55 PM
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What I remember from when I had mine off was that the throttle plate shut off the air it seemed, not for sure though.

2006 Vulcan 64k GF daily driver
2003 Vulcan 92k My daily driver
2000 Vulcan 115k saved from the scrap yard
1991 3.8 207k drove to junk yard, 1988 Vulcan lost in divorce
2009 Impala 3.0 18k my nice car
1996 F250 Powerstroke my toy-pristine lots of mods
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