Duratec A/C clutch - top or bottom repair. - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-30-2013, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Duratec A/C clutch - top or bottom repair.

I am looking at replacing the AC compressor clutch on my 2001 Sable with the 3.0 Duratec DOHC engine. I have read many of the previous threads on accomplishing the task as I know very little about this car. However, I am a bit confused as to whether or not it is feasible to drop the subframe on this particular engine/car to replace the AC clutch.

Doing the replacement from the bottom looks like the easiest way to go for the vulcan/SOHC version, but what about the Duratec DOHC engine? As I look at the engine I don't see how you could simply lower one side of the engine sufficient enough to expose the AC compressor without having the engine getting jammed up by hitting the side of the engine compartment.

Has anyone done this repair (from the bottom approach) on the DOHC? I just need the assurance it is the way to go before I get started.

All suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks.

Last edited by rbeales; 06-30-2013 at 08:18 PM.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-08-2013, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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By the lack of replies I am assuming nobody as dropped the subframe for the duratec engine to access the AC compressor clutch.

So, I guess I should ask if anyone has even heard of anyone doing it??? - I really don't want to start this project without at least a glimmer of hope having it work.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-05-2013, 07:13 PM
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rbeales....

How'd you fix your AC? My clutch went bad tonight. And my gawd, that's a bugger of job.

Chap
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-05-2013, 11:50 PM
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read this https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-m...placement.html

--Nick
-'66 Ford Country Squire wagon 390/C6
-'87 & '89 Mercury Colony Park wagons 302 EFI/AOD
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former '87 Taurus 3.0 GL sedan, '87 Taurus 3.0 GL Wagon, '97 Taurus SHO 3.4 V8 sedan, '00 Taurus SEL 3.0 24V
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-06-2013, 02:54 PM
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Hey Bull,

Thank you. I've been reading all I can find on replacing the clutch. I used to like Fords. Been a Ford man all my life. Mine is an '03 Duratec .... oh boy!

Getting the clutch kit tonight on the way home. Stopping by my local Harbor Freight and grabbing a few tools too....

Sure wishin' you'd wish me luck!

Chap
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-06-2013, 03:19 PM
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It's only scary because you're faced with moving big stuff. It's all nuts and bolts and rather straightforward. I thought it was rather easy, but then my car hasn't seen corrosion.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-06-2013, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbeales View Post
I am looking at replacing the AC compressor clutch on my 2001 Sable with the 3.0 Duratec DOHC engine. ...whether or not it is feasible to drop the subframe on this particular engine/car to replace the AC clutch.
Did replace ac clutch and coil on the 02 Duratec. Dropped subframe. Did not see how I could remove snap ring, pulley, clutch, coil with limited space. If you can, congratulations.

From memory only. YMMV.
Car in park, park brake on. Wheel chocks. Remove RF tire. Tire under car
Loosen all vacuum hoses and wires than might come off when lowering subframe, including some near brake booster. So they do not snap off or break.
Remove serpentine belt. I just used medium sized towel and pulled up wherever it was easiest to reach belt. That loosens tensioner and can pull serpentine off pulleys.
Support car just behind subframe on frame like place where you are supposed to jack car. Use jackstand, wood. High enough so can actually lower subframe.
Support subframe with jack.
Support lower control arm with jack
Undo 3 strut mount bolts on fender. Remove sway bar link to strut connection.
Lower whole strut.
Move enough of plastic inner front fender to see where the AC comp is.
Loosen and remove two right subframe bolts.
Subframe will gradually lower as you lower jack. .
A pulley , not AC pulley, will contact right side of engine compartment and limit lowering subframe. Push pulley down with wood block and hammer it until face of AC comp is visible enough to do work.
Remove snap ring of AC pulley w snap ring plier.
Remove pulley, bearing, clutch. Pry off, Claw hammer, screwdriver, etc. Save shims if you can. Go around ac compressor shaft. Washer like, size of a dime, or nickel.
Pry off coil if you need to replace coil.
Put new coil, pulley back.
Make sure AC clutch gap is correct. 4 Seasons brand new AC clutch pulley coil that I used should come with shims. The gap is adjusted with shims of different thicknesses. Use enough to get good gap as measured with feeler gauge. May need to test fit many times.
Make sure torque of AC pulley bolt is correct.
Assembly is reverse of removal. Make sure to guide strut back to 3 fender holes and not get hung up on plastic fender liner.
Make sure torque strut-to-sway bar links to spec or will rattle. Higher than torque of subframe bolts.
Good luck.
Found many other posts on how to do this. I am indebted to others who did it first.

Luckily, did not need impact wrench, did not disconnect radiator hoses.
Did need 1/2 breaker bar, 3/8 inch ratchet, large and small sockets, several torque wrenches, small covered containers like cottage cheese containers to store small parts, snap ring plier, hammer, screwdrivers, plier, jacks, jackstand, small wood blocks.
AC clutch was branded 4 seasons, this is probably same item different name.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2631&ppt=C0328
or this http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...438&cc=1385760

Did need one 10amp minifuse. My clutch and bearing were bad. Also clutch coil shorted out and the fuse blew. Was in the fuse box near radiator. Still works fine more than a yr later.

Last edited by midday; 09-06-2013 at 07:36 PM.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-08-2013, 11:31 AM
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Questions??

Does it not put stress on the LH side by dropping the sub frame only in the RH side?

Does anyone have photo's of this job on the sub frame?

And though it's tight quarters, can the clutch not be removed without dropping the sub frame?

I'm not unaccustomed to heavy work on a car but it just scare's me, the thought of dropping the sub frame. So any shot of confidence and direction is greatly appreciated.

And *ALL* for one bolt and one snap ring. My gawd, what were those design engineers thinking. I called my usual mechanic for things I can't do and he refused to get involved with it. Can't says as I blame him.

Chap

Last edited by lcjones; 09-08-2013 at 11:33 AM.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-08-2013, 11:35 AM
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Just be wary of breaking/disconnecting elec. wires/vacuum hoses near the brake booster area. Keep an eye out for stretching or disconnect beforehand.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-08-2013, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheila View Post
Just be wary of breaking/disconnecting elec. wires/vacuum hoses near the brake booster area. Keep an eye out for stretching or disconnect beforehand.
^ what sheila said.

I've yanked Taurus compressors from the top too...DOHC, OHV.

Just depends which your back is up to.

Don't worry about the stresses, it'll be fine - just git 'er dun!

--Nick
-'66 Ford Country Squire wagon 390/C6
-'87 & '89 Mercury Colony Park wagons 302 EFI/AOD
-'90 Lincoln Town Car 302 EFI/AOD
-'03 Lincoln Town Car 4.6L/4R70W

former '87 Taurus 3.0 GL sedan, '87 Taurus 3.0 GL Wagon, '97 Taurus SHO 3.4 V8 sedan, '00 Taurus SEL 3.0 24V
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