I am looking at replacing the AC
compressor clutch on my 2001 Sable with the 3.0 Duratec DOHC
engine. ...whether or not it is feasible to drop the subframe on this particular engine/car to replace the AC
Did replace ac
clutch and coil on the 02 Duratec. Dropped subframe. Did not see how I could remove snap ring, pulley, clutch, coil with limited space. If you can, congratulations.
From memory only. YMMV.
Car in park, park brake on. Wheel chocks. Remove RF tire. Tire under car
Loosen all vacuum hoses and wires than might come off when lowering subframe, including some near brake booster. So they do not snap off or break.
Remove serpentine belt. I just used medium sized towel and pulled up wherever it was easiest to reach belt. That loosens tensioner and can pull serpentine off pulleys.
Support car just behind subframe on frame like place where you are supposed to jack car. Use jackstand, wood. High enough so can actually lower subframe.
Support subframe with jack.
Support lower control arm with jack
Undo 3 strut mount bolts on fender. Remove sway bar link to strut connection.
Lower whole strut.
Move enough of plastic inner front fender to see where the AC
Loosen and remove two right subframe bolts.
Subframe will gradually lower as you lower jack. .
A pulley , not AC
pulley, will contact right side of engine compartment and limit lowering subframe. Push pulley down with wood block and hammer it until face of AC
comp is visible enough to do work.
Remove snap ring of AC
pulley w snap ring plier.
Remove pulley, bearing, clutch. Pry off, Claw hammer, screwdriver, etc. Save shims if you can. Go around ac
compressor shaft. Washer like, size of a dime, or nickel.
Pry off coil if you need to replace coil.
Put new coil, pulley back.
Make sure AC
clutch gap is correct. 4 Seasons brand new AC
clutch pulley coil that I used should come with shims. The gap is adjusted with shims of different thicknesses. Use enough to get good gap as measured with feeler gauge. May need to test fit many times.
Make sure torque of AC
pulley bolt is correct.
Assembly is reverse of removal. Make sure to guide strut back to 3 fender holes and not get hung up on plastic fender liner.
Make sure torque strut-to-sway bar links to spec or will rattle. Higher than torque of subframe bolts.
Found many other posts on how to do this. I am indebted to others who did it first.
Luckily, did not need impact wrench, did not disconnect radiator hoses.
Did need 1/2 breaker bar, 3/8 inch ratchet, large and small sockets, several torque wrenches, small covered containers like cottage cheese containers to store small parts, snap ring plier, hammer, screwdrivers, plier, jacks, jackstand, small wood blocks.
clutch was branded 4 seasons, this is probably same item different name.
or this http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...438&cc=1385760
Did need one 10amp minifuse. My clutch and bearing were bad. Also clutch coil shorted out and the fuse blew. Was in the fuse box near radiator. Still works fine more than a yr later.