2001 Taurus Vulcan V6 - coolant boiling, engine temp fluctuating - help? - Page 6 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #51 of 58 (permalink) Old 06-15-2013, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by sheila View Post
Radiator is removed from the bottom on your car.
Aha, so that's how is done... I was thinking that you need to remove the whole front.
No wonder, thermostat is on bottom too, design engineer probably was a weirdo
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post #52 of 58 (permalink) Old 06-15-2013, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by sheila View Post
^ If you decide to r&r, there are write-ups on the forum somewhere. Radiator is removed from the bottom on your car.
It is easier to pull the bumper cover and move the AC condenser and the trans cooler (the second one in front of the radiator) from the front end. Access to the radiator is much easier that way too.
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post #53 of 58 (permalink) Old 06-15-2013, 02:05 PM
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Alright, I'm thinking the radiator is blocked. The cap was never a problem until all this started, and I don't think just the cap would cause all this, for one. The system isn't taking the full 12 quarts of fluid; in fact, it's barely taking six, and even then it boils over most of it. I don't think I have a head gasket leak, because I recently changed the oil and checked all of it in a shallow pan to see if there were any signs of fluid contamination, and I couldn't find anything but used oil. It's getting old, and I'm starting to get paranoid about driving my car. It runs cool when the fluid is in it, but it boils over every time I stop moving... gah, this sucks. I may as well take it to the mechanic on Monday and have him look at it, see what he can do. There's gotta be something.
If it is only taking 6 quarts (1.5 gallons) when the capacity is 2.5 gallons, that can easily overheat the engine really fast.

If the radiator is all metal, by completely removing it and filling it with a thinner, it will loosen up the garbage that is in it. However, that requires a lot of waste material and time to flush it out. Usually, replacing it is suggested, they are about $200.00 for a Bull radiator at most shops.
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post #54 of 58 (permalink) Old 06-15-2013, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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The hell with this, I'm just gonna get a new radiator put in. It's under $400 to get a brand new one and do a full install and service.
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post #55 of 58 (permalink) Old 06-15-2013, 04:56 PM
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Get a US made radiator.

Holly: 2003 Taurus SES Deluxe, Duratec, spoiler, moonroof, OEM Centennials, JBL Audio. April '14 COTM winner.
Jill: 2010 Taurus SEL, 3.5L Duratec, Sync.


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post #56 of 58 (permalink) Old 06-15-2013, 06:53 PM
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Taurus/Sable radiators are usually readily available for $100 or less.
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post #57 of 58 (permalink) Old 07-03-2013, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by SoNic67 View Post
100% is the pump. Overheating because of failing pump will damage an older thermostat too...
At least this is what happened to me. Change both.
Dumb question: Can a new pump overcool??

Been having MADDENING feelings, watching my temp gauge not get above 1/8 while driving all day. Engine feels like an oven. SOMETIMES rises to mid-way, then goes back down..

gaskets are OK
NEW Water pump, two weeks ago
NEW Thermostat, 4 days ago
gunky coolant, must flush AGAIN (I did three times its still brown)
NEW radiator
and NEW radiator cap
Seems to no longer take coolant from the tank, it used to drink it down when I didnt bleed it first..

?

95 Taurus GL 3.0 Vulcan, AX4N
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post #58 of 58 (permalink) Old 07-03-2013, 07:58 PM
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Wrong thermostat. My son's Tempo did that for a year, only to find out the last mouthbreather to work on it (before we bought it) had put in a 195° stat instead of a 192° OEM unit. Been working fine, ever since I replaced it.

DON'T let a parts place (Advance, AutoZone, whomever) tell you a close replacement will work. Get the OEM-specified temp thermostat, and insist upon it.

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