Cruise control deactivation switch - Page 2 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jayg20769 View Post
Just double-checking though, I'm right to disconnect the battery when checking for a closed-circuit right? Or else I risk blowing up the multimeter.
I'm a little confused how you're doing this. You would want to test the LG/RD power wire with a test light (clipped onto a ground) to make sure you're getting power. To test the other wire for a short to ground you would connect one lead to a know good ground (test it first!) and then touch the other to the TN/OG wire and check for resistance (should be infinite unless you're measuring the ground resistance through the cruise control servo). Make sure the pin sockets in the connector aren't loose from someone jamming DMM probes in them. If they are you'll have to bend them back.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Problem solved!

Turns out that faulty wiring that was brought up was true. The 2 wires were frayed somehow and was just hanging by the tape that was wrapped around it. After about and hour and a crooked neck later I was able to solder the wires back on and apply a new strip of electrical tape, works perfectly now!

Side question though, the cruise control hasn't been used in years and I was wondering if the actuator would be any less accurate due to non-use. I drove the car about 6 miles on slightly hilly roads and on the moderate hills the speed would stay about maybe 1-2 miles below the desired speed, once it flattened out it stayed right on the mark. This is normal right? Or should the response be more accurate?
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 07:37 PM
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Glad you found it. Tell your neighbor it was the wires.

Some speed variation when going up and down hills is normal, especially if the slope of the hills is constantly changing as opposed to having a constant up or down slope.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-25-2016, 10:46 AM
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Hey all!
I was finally able to get my CC fixed! Turns out that it was my deactivation switch. This itty bitty part way up by the brake area. It was only 40 dollars from the dealership and I was able to change it myself! Had to put the seat back and all the way down, wheel all the way up, and the brake pedals almost out all the way to have enough room to reach up in there.( I was laying upside down in the drivers seat while doing this. LOL.) I had to get the plug portion off first and then was able to turn to the old switch to get it out. With some effort, I was able to get the new one in and popped into place. I was so worried about breaking it that it took some time before I got the "click" to happen. Also, connecting the plug before popping the plunger part in is a big help!
Forgot to take pictures, Sorry!
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02 Sable Wagon
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