Gas tank Replacement - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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Gas tank Replacement

I read the common problems section for gas tank replacment. It shows a top view picture of a gen 4 gas tank. I have a 96(gen 3) and I suspect a leak from the top of the tank. Obviously I don't know if it is a hose or the tank with out lowering the tank. I may as well replace the tank if I have to go through all of that trouble. After all it is the Original.

The thread suggests replacing the Pump and sending unit at the same time and I likely will do it also. Again, They are original.

I DL'ed a picture someone generosly put up of a gen 4. I annoted it as best I understood and attached it with this post. If I am incorrect on anything please say so.

My questions are as follows.

1. How different is the top of the tank for a gen 3 vs. gen 4.
2. I see a 18 and 16 gallon tanks are available. I have a wagon and assume it is a 16 gallon. Are the two interchangable? I assume the 18 is for SHO.
3. How much gas can I get out by siphoning? Is it worth siphoning if I can run it down to a gallon or so?
4. Can one man do this alone?
5. What are the 2 blue fittings in the picture and how are they removed? Are they used in a Gen 3?
6. Can I easily/safely remove the pump ring with a screw driver and hammer. Someone suggested it but another suggested using a brass drift pin. I assume because of possible sparking.
7. Anything special I need to be aware of that was not identified in the common problems gas tank thread?
8. Are hoses dealer only item? I suspect so but someone here will know for sure.

Thanks
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-28-2012, 02:38 AM
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Here is the link from when the fuel tank on my '96 Sable was replaced:
https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/98-s...-pump-r-r.html

A gas tank job is a lot safer with two people. Tanks are bulky and awkward. A hoist helps a lot as well.

I would run down the tank as best you can. Makes the tank weigh less. If you end up not reusing the gas, you're only out $4-7, but the peace of mind of starting out with fresh gas might make up for it.

Using a hammer and screwdriver should work. Make sure to do this in a well-ventilated area.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-28-2012, 02:58 PM
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A set of 2 brass drift pins is sold by Harbor Freight fairly inexpensive and worth the cost. Putting the car up on jack stands front & rear makes it a lot easier if you don't have a vehicle lift, as the tank is mostly under the rear seat. It can be a one man job easily, if you have done it before. I use a floor jack to assist in lowering the tank. Clean, prime and paint your new tank, keeping in mind undercoating usually traps moisture in after time (especially in the Snow/Rust Belt areas of the US), good quality primer and paint is better. I just drive the gas away til the tank is almost empty. IIRC, the 18 gal tank is for FFV vehicles. Good luck and work safe!


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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-28-2012, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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Dan and MFJ,

Thanks and good info. The Gen 4 tank is certainly different than the 96 gen 3.

I was thinking of backing on to ramps or just jacking up the rear and blocking it.
I did this before to change out the straps. I know it is not the same thingas raising both ends but I got under there well enough to remove the stuburn strap bolts last year.

When you use a floor jack to lower the tank, where do you place it to get the best balance?

About how much does the old tank weigh with a gallon of gas or so in it?

I certainly will prime/paint the new tank and probably do some work on the body when the tank is out. I don't know what I will find but I would assume it will be somewhat nasty being in the NorthEast.

Thanks
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-28-2012, 09:28 PM
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You will need a lot more clearance to remove the tank vs. changing the straps, trust me. Get 4 good jack stands, you will be glad you did, the car will be level and you won't be fighting a tank cocked at an angle while doing a R&R. I put the jack right in the center of the tank with a 12"x12" piece of plywood on the lifting saddle for support. Weight? probably no more than 20-25 pounds. I have removed them without a jack before, as well, but a jack makes it a whole lot easier. (So does 4 jack stands.)


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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Dan,

I see your point. This is when I wish I had access to a lift. oh well.

I am still thinking of backing on to ramps and then jacking the front to be level. My ramps raise the car 10-12 inches.

I am also thinking I should replace hoses which I think are dealer only Items. I already ordered the fill tube which is different for the Wagon vs. Sedan. According to the AZ web site it is 1/4" shorter for some reason.

I will check out Tasca Ford for the hoses and if anyone knows of another good source I would appreciate your comments.

I also looked at fuel pumps. There is quite a range of chioces on RockAuto. Some say they come with the strainer and others don't say. It appears from the pictures the sending unit comes with most all. Is this a safe assumption? Any suggestions on purchasing a fuel pump?
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 10:53 PM
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Stick with ford for the fuel pump...they seem to last longer than aftermarket cheapo units.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-31-2012, 12:56 AM Thread Starter
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For this car the Motorcraft fuel pump is $402 it should be a lot better at that price.

The Bosch is $235
The Carter is $135
and
The Spectra is $110

The real cheapo Airtex at $92
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-04-2012, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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I was sizing up this job this morning and I tend to agree I need to get the car pretty high to get the tank in and out. Especially if I were to do it alone and use a floor jack with a rigged platform to the saddle to hold the tank.

I notice a black hockey puck shapped object near the rear right corner of the tank. It is bolted to the tank flange. The bracket is very rusty and it doese not seem to have much room around it. See the attached pic.

What is it and how easy will the rusy screw come out. It it breaks or strips what have people done in the past. I gotta believe this has happened a few times in the past.

I will try to detach all I can before lowering it. It seems a few hoses will be detatched from the top of the tank.

How much lee way do you have in lowering the tank before some of the hoses will not allow any more movement?

Thanks
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