Electric fan issues - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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Electric fan issues

Hey all. Maybe I can get some help with an issue I am not familiar with. I have a 1996 Taurus LX. Its the Duratec V6. I recently did a coolant fluch and fill on it. After running it to make sure all is well and to bleed it out, it seemed fine. I then replaced the tank cap and while running it in idle with the ac on, the needle went up just under hot. I shut off the air and the fans stayed on high speed until it went back to normal. I plugged in my OTC scanner and the temp showed that with the fans on high and ac off, it sat at 190*. After letting the car sit for about an hour, I started it again this time with the cover on the tank. The car idled for about 15 mins at 190* and then it went up to 223* and then the high speed relay kicked on the fans. I checked for cold spots on hoses, radiator, heater hoses and thermostat housing. All was well. After using the OTC scan tool to rule out a possible gauge malfunction, it was fine. Does anyone know if there is a Low/High speed fan relay in the box at all. Cannot find one in the car. The high speed fan kicks on but the low speed is looking like the issue. Both my 2000 Duratecs have not given me this problem. Also, is there a coolant temp sensor on this model year? Have not seen one under the hood like my 2000 models. Any help would be great. Thanks
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpbfinest1 View Post
Hey all. Maybe I can get some help with an issue I am not familiar with. I have a 1996 Taurus LX. Its the Duratec V6. I recently did a coolant flush and fill on it. After running it to make sure all is well and to bleed it out, it seemed fine. I then replaced the tank cap and while running it in idle with the ac on, the needle went up just under hot. I shut off the air and the fans stayed on high speed until it went back to normal. I plugged in my OTC scanner and the temp showed that with the fans on high and ac off, it sat at 190*. After letting the car sit for about an hour, I started it again this time with the cover on the tank. The car idled for about 15 mins at 190* and then it went up to 223* and then the high speed relay kicked on the fans. I checked for cold spots on hoses, radiator, heater hoses and thermostat housing. All was well. After using the OTC scan tool to rule out a possible gauge malfunction, it was fine. Does anyone know if there is a Low/High speed fan relay in the box at all. Cannot find one in the car. The high speed fan kicks on but the low speed is looking like the issue. Both my 2000 Duratecs have not given me this problem. Also, is there a coolant temp sensor on this model year? Have not seen one under the hood like my 2000 models. Any help would be great. Thanks

You have a two speed system. Sounds like the low speed is not functional
for some reason. Earlier Taurus had the low speed controlled be a relay
and a dropping resistor in the wheel well. Some of the newer ones
had a actual 2 speed 2 winding fan as i recall. ON a 1996, the fans are
controlled be the CCRM/IRCM which is on the drivers side next to the
battery. around 98, they switched to discrete relays.

So, you could have a bad dropping resistor, bad relay in CCRM module, or
some wiring issue potentially.

Bob Urz 1989 Vulcan wagon (wife crashed) 1990 Vulcan sedan (sold running) 1993 Vulcan sedan (wife crashed) 1993 Vulcan wagon (beat up like Battlestar Galactica, drove to junkyard on a sad day) 1997 Vulcan sedan (down with multiple coolant leaks), 1998 Vulcan sedan (rescued from being junked three time with broken brake lines and bad rack, hydrolocked engine replaced ) down for now
Note: wives and daughters are dangerous to your Taurus health!

If Spock drove a Taurus it would be a Vulcan
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 05:12 PM
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Here's the diagram: http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/Wd/D...b-cbf25912e288

Like Bob said, check the dropping resistor. Otherwise it might be a bad CCRM.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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I found the ccrm you both mentioned. I removed the wiring harness to check to see if there was water or corrosion since we have had alot of rain here in northern Tenn. Its clear. I did some back probing with it reconnected and had juice to where it should be in the harness going by the diagrams Behlinla posted. I am assuming that the ccrm is a contained unit? I saw no way of jumping it or opening it to jump a relay. Granted I tried to get the jump probing through the harness but without knowing when the fans low speed kicksd on or when the thermostat opens, kinda sucks. Also you say that the dropping resistor is somewhere in the wheelwell. I didnt see anything like this. Only odd thing I did see was a small plastic disc with a rubber down tube making a humming noise when the car ran for about 2 mins. Today the car ran fin with no issues in traffic or on the highway. I am gonna lean towards wiring as an issue since my door ajar lamp came on while driving. Gonna go through connections tomorrow and clean out connections and digrease the crap out of them, lol. I am getting to old to be doing this especially with me having some early onset of a small brain tumor. So chances are that I will be posting again if somthing happens. I am loosing my short term memory so it does suck and its difficult. Thanks for the help guys. Much appriciated
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 10:32 PM
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Did you check ccrm ground? Iirc, dropping resistor will have wires going in and out of a white ceramic (porcelain) base. When damaged, the wires and white ceramic are often visibly charred or corroded. Might click on the "search" feature at the top of this page and type in: dropping resistor to pinpoint its location on your car. Might also click on the "topic finder" up top for add'l. help. And yes, ccrm is generally not serviceable, except as a whole unit.

Last edited by sheila; 07-19-2012 at 10:52 PM.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-22-2012, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheila View Post
Did you check ccrm ground? Iirc, dropping resistor will have wires going in and out of a white ceramic (porcelain) base. When damaged, the wires and white ceramic are often visibly charred or corroded. Might click on the "search" feature at the top of this page and type in: dropping resistor to pinpoint its location on your car. Might also click on the "topic finder" up top for add'l. help. And yes, ccrm is generally not serviceable, except as a whole unit.

If your a techo geek, you can service a CCRM limitedly. You have to drill
out the rivets that hold the case together. Then you can get to the circuit
board. If you have issues, you will normally have bad solder joints, bad
relay, or other fried components on the board.

If your NOT an electronics guy, i would NOT recommend this.

Bob Urz 1989 Vulcan wagon (wife crashed) 1990 Vulcan sedan (sold running) 1993 Vulcan sedan (wife crashed) 1993 Vulcan wagon (beat up like Battlestar Galactica, drove to junkyard on a sad day) 1997 Vulcan sedan (down with multiple coolant leaks), 1998 Vulcan sedan (rescued from being junked three time with broken brake lines and bad rack, hydrolocked engine replaced ) down for now
Note: wives and daughters are dangerous to your Taurus health!

If Spock drove a Taurus it would be a Vulcan
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-22-2012, 11:58 PM
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Yup, if you don't know how to run a soldering iron or what rosin flux is, better to just replace the CCRM.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 04:49 AM
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Dropping resistor located under pass-side headlight in the fender - pics in this post: https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/87-e...ml#post1634651
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