Gen 4 hose replacement - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
 
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post #1 of 1 (permalink) Old 10-13-2010, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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Gen 4 hose replacement

My 2001 Vulcan has had a slow coolant leak for months so I decided to do a water pump/hose/coolant tank/accessory belt and pulley replacement.

The water pump and accessory belt repair has been covered numerous times in the forum so I thought I'd share my experiences with the removal and replacement of the hoses. However, due to the ancillary labor involved to gain clearances for hose replacement, seriously consider doing a water pump and accessory train refurbishment at the same time.

In the process of researching this forum, I gleaned part numbers that may help others in sourcing before undertaking the task.

I also wanted to document my experiences in the form of tips.

Here are the hoses in the order I recommend removal, with replacement in inverse order (part numbers are from my order at Rock Auto or documented elsewhere - verify before ordering):

Coolant tank:

1) Lower radiator side (large nipple) to Lower radiator hose (5) T: part YF1Z-8075-AA

2) Upper radiator side (small nipple) to top of radiator: part YF12-8276-AC

3) Firewall-side nipple to engine block nipple (runs under intake manifold): part KM-4667/1F1Z-8075-CA


Radiator:

4) Upper radiator hose (large hose connecting top of radiator to thermostat housing/water inlet on engine) MOTORCRAFT Part # KM3026 {#F6DZ8260A}

5) Lower radiator hose (large hose with T-connection on one end, runs from bottom of radiator to engine block near water pump, connects at T to hose (1) MOTORCRAFT Part # KM4516 {#XF128286AA, XF1Z8286AA}

Water pump:

6) Water pump nipple to heater bypass nipple: ACDELCO Part # 16303M {#88920739}

7) Heater bypass assembly: hose and metal pipe assembly with:

  • 2 hoses for connection to heater in and out nipples,
  • 1 hose to connect to top of engine block nipple, driver side
  • 1 nipple to connect to hose (6) from water pump

Dorman part 626-207

R/R tips:

Hose:

1 - Remove plastic shield from bumper area. This allows access to the T connection on lower radiator hose (5). Loosen clamp securing this end of the hose to the T. This is also the best way to drain the coolant; have a good size pan to capture the waste coolant.

On the tank end, must unbolt tank from body to get access to remove clamp.

2 - No special issues as both clamps are accessible.

3 - Must remove intake manifold - not too bad, remove 4 screws securing to block, remove bolts securing EGR valve bracket to manifold(EGR valve has rigid tube connecting it to exhaust manifold), remove air cleaner, throttle body and idle air control valve. The throttle body can be disconnected from the air cleaner body and moved aside, no need to disconnect the throttle cables. This is also necessary to R/R hose assembly 7. A number of electrical connectors must also be disconnected but they all have different form factors so no possibility of hooking them back up incorrectly (incompletely is another issue).

Cover up the intake openings with a piece of cardboard or clean towel - you don't want any sockets or fasteners to fall down the holes!

The new hose I had did not have the 2 plastic bracket fittings that press on to studs on the block; check if yours needs to have the fittings from the old hose transferred over and taped on.

Remove the tank and set aside.

4 - Remove battery, move fuse box out of the way. Radiator end clamp can then be accessed. The end at the thermostat housing is easily accessed.

5 - This one requires taking most of the accessory drive apart to get to the engine block end. Remove serpentine belt, remove tensioner (use Torx-45), remove idler pulley, may have to move generator (I did the hose replacement as part of a water pump/accessory drive replacement and had the generator moved out of its usual position but am not sure if this is absolutely necessary).

On the radiator end, there is a plate secured by 4 bolts that needs to be removed to give access to the spring clamp.

6. With the serpentine belt off, you should be able to access the water pump end clamp - possibly, you may have to remove the engine roll restrictor bracket. The bypass nipple end may require moving some of the cabling around. If you remove the intake manifold for hose 3 replacement, there should be no problem with this end of the hose.

7. This one's a bear, but again, having the manifold off makes it easier. The difficulty is reaching the clamps on the hoses that go to the heater core.

There are two nuts on studs holding the entire assembly to the firewall - one in the extreme upper corner of the passenger side of the firewall and one just to the driver's side of the middle of the firewall. The old hoses to the heater core should be cut off as close to the nipples as possible using a box cutter or serrated edge knife. It is almost impossible to access the clamps on these hoses without cutting off the hose assembly and moving the rigid parts out of the way. Also, old hoses will have adhered themselves to the core nipples; trying to twist them off may damage the core. Better to cut the hoses, remove the old assembly, then go back to remove the clamps and then slit the hose stubs along the length of the core nipples and pry them off.

Hose 6 is just clamped on to the nipple on the passenger's side; the remaining hose end is disconnected at the engine block. There is a plastic duct on the driver's side that must be removed to allow removal of the assembly - it presses on to a stud on the firewall.

Tools and other advice

Get one of those hose removal hooks as it makes loosening a hardened hose from a nipple much easier than trying to twist it off by hand.

Also, while channel lock pliers may work, a dedicated clamp removal tool is recommended. One of those with jaws connected by wire cables is highly recommended - I had the plier type but in retrospect, it would have gone faster with this type of tool:

http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-9409A-Clamp-Pliers/dp/B003D3N7YW/ref=pd_cp_hi_3

Moisten new hose ends with a bit of antifreeze - they will slide on to the nipples with little effort.

Last edited by rickpark; 10-14-2010 at 01:41 AM. Reason: Fix url
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