Heater Blower Wont Spin - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
 
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 01-13-2009, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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Wife heater quit, i figured the blower motor, but after removal i hooked it direct to battery and it spins fine.
i have chacked all fuses in the car and the engine compartment, also swapped out the relays. a used a DMM at the relay connections in the engine compartment fusebox, som legs have power most dont "i dont know which should/shoulnt that would help".
i used the DMM on the backside of the switch with no good conclusion of the problem, the fan does not spin ever, in any setting, there of coarse is no voltage at the blower motor hookup, as the fan would spin fine if there was.
so resistor? switch? wiring? and how to diagnose with the DMM, which legs of the relay should have juice always and when switched on?


96 Taurus
manual heat control
power everything else, non SHO
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 01-13-2009, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Wife heater quit, i figured the blower motor, but after removal i hooked it direct to battery and it spins fine.
i have chacked all fuses in the car and the engine compartment, also swapped out the relays. a used a DMM at the relay connections in the engine compartment fusebox, som legs have power most dont "i dont know which should/should not that would help".
i used the DMM on the backside of the switch with no good conclusion of the problem, the fan does not spin ever, in any setting, there of coarse is no voltage at the blower motor hookup, as the fan would spin fine if there was.
so resistor? switch? wiring? and how to diagnose with the DMM, which legs of the relay should have juice always and when switched on?


96 Taurus
manual heat control
power everything else, non SHO
[/b]
I just fixed the blower on my gen 2 manual HVAC. It should be similar.

The flow is fuse (hvac), on switch on climate control, speed control and then motor.
The motor should have two wires gong to it in a harness. One is hot, one is ground.
Put the heater on and speed full (speed on full bypasses the speed resistors).
Measure both heater leads for voltage to a good ground. If you have +12volts to
one of the leads, check the other lead to make sure its has a good ground.
A bad ground could cause no blower. Check the connector to the motor to make
sure its not melted and damaged.

If you still have no power at the motor leads with the DMM, your going to have to take
the pod out of the dash and trace power from the HVAC on switch, and the speed control.

In my case, it was the motor. I spun it backwards and got it to work for a day, then it
died again. I got a junkyard one and its fine now. Buts its a pain to put in.

bob




Bob Urz 1989 Vulcan wagon (wife crashed) 1990 Vulcan sedan (sold running) 1993 Vulcan sedan (wife crashed) 1993 Vulcan wagon (beat up like Battlestar Galactica, drove to junkyard on a sad day) 1997 Vulcan sedan (down with multiple coolant leaks), 1998 Vulcan sedan (rescued from being junked three time with broken brake lines and bad rack, hydrolocked engine replaced ) down for now
Note: wives and daughters are dangerous to your Taurus health!

If Spock drove a Taurus it would be a Vulcan
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 01-14-2009, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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ok so DMM @ the blower connection = no 12v, yes ground

im a lil suspicious of the relay box, it was awful hard to get that particular relay out, compared to teh others. rusty or almost melted im unsure.

does anyone know which legs going into the blower relay should always have power, and which should have power when the heater switch is on? there 5 legs total on this relay i believe and if i remember there number like from 34+

also to prove out the switch itself how would i test or bypass it with a jumper to rule it out?

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