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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 03:48 PM
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SUCKER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm hot, I'm toasty! Feel that ....... psssssss!

The second flush seems to have done the trick. Gauge comes to almost half. Had the fan set at 1 click over LO and it's soooooooo comfy.


Sorry, it just had to be done.
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 03:57 PM
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SUCKER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm hot, I'm toasty! Feel that ....... psssssss!

The second flush seems to have done the trick. Gauge comes to almost half. Had the fan set at 1 click over LO and it's soooooooo comfy.


Sorry, it just had to be done.
[/b]
oooohhh thats rough...but that post woulda been a good time for this Smily oh well...too late now

A little left of center.... ( - _ - )
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 04:59 PM
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Blocked heater core. Actually quite common with the Vulcan engine - there is a TSB to run a bypass line between the two heater core lines to prevent the core from sludging up. If your coolant is brown, it's time to do the flush procedure outlined in the wiki.

<div class='quotemain'> Mine was filled to the brim last summer when I bought it... After maybe a day of driving around I noticed a huge pool of coolant on the driveway... I have no idea where it came from but I haven't had a coolant leak since it's been at the line on the tank... [/b]
That's because the coolant expanded as it heated up and the excess coolant came out the relief vent in the reservoir cap. It's supposed to do that.
[/b][/quote]

I realize that there was too much coolant in the system and that is why it leaked... However, you just told the guy to "ignore the markings and fill it up to the top"... Were you implying that this should only be done when you are having a problem or that we should be doing this always?

bstone, "assuming everything is flowing fine, what else could be the problem?", if everything was flowing properly there wouldn't be a problem... 99% of people out there think that a car's heater system is all electrical, or that the hot air that blows off the engine is the air that heats the cabin... In reality, hot coolant has always been used to heat up air that is blown by a fan through a heater core (essentially a small radiator)... That's why if you car overheats in the summer, you can turn on the cabin heat full blast to help lower the engine temp. It will always be like this until a time internal combustion engines are no longer used and cars are so efficient that they don't make heat as a byproduct!

This jellybean&#39;s got a hard candy coating

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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 07:18 PM
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hi,

also remove the Degas bottle and flush it out also,
both of my cars had so much brown crud in it,
the flow was reduced to a trickle.

regards,

james
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-24-2008, 10:53 AM
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I realize that there was too much coolant in the system and that is why it leaked... However, you just told the guy to "ignore the markings and fill it up to the top"... Were you implying that this should only be done when you are having a problem or that we should be doing this always? [/b]
Always. Ford released a TSB saying ignore the markings, fill it up completely and the excess will overflow on its own.

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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-24-2008, 12:00 PM
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Quote:

I realize that there was too much coolant in the system and that is why it leaked... However, you just told the guy to "ignore the markings and fill it up to the top"... Were you implying that this should only be done when you are having a problem or that we should be doing this always?

[/b]

Having the degass bottle as full as possible will minimize the O2 in the system which causes the corrosion as well as having the maximum amount of coolant. There is no negative to having the bottle as full as possible.

Paul Nimz
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-27-2008, 05:28 PM
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My two-cents: Generally speaking lukewarm or less air coming from the vents is one of 3 things:

1) Low Coolant. Easily checked.

2) Bad thermostat. Test this by allowing the engine to come to normal operating temp. Feel the inlet heater hose. If it is cool then the thermostat is not allowing the hot coolant to pass. Replace the thermostat.

3) Blocked heater core. Test this by allowing the engine to come up to normal operating temp. Feel the inlet heater hose - it should be hot to the touch. Feel the outlet heater hose. It should also be hot. If it's significantly cooler than the other hose, then the heater core is the problem. Also, if you have coolant loss, check your passenger floorboard (pull the carpet up a little if necessary) for wet. If you find that, then the heater core is not just blocked but bad and no amount of flushing will fix it - it'll need replacing.

As a note: the water pump does play a strong part in all of this but usually you will see leakage - a bad water pump USUALLY will leak from the weep hole on the side or underside of the pump itself.


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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-29-2008, 04:50 PM
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I just replaced my water pump on my '97 OHV Vulcan 3.0 (164k). The original factory pump came out with intact impellers, however each right-angle bend on each impeller had a rusted hairline crack through it - which probably reduced flow somewhat. Hard to believe the water pump pictured is real. Why would ALL the right-angles on ALL the impellers be completely rusted off so perfectly? Very hard for me to believe.

My car has had no-heat (or greatly reduced heat) issues over the last several years for the same reason every time: block heater core. The cooling systems on these cars just continually sludge up. You need to stay on top of it by flushing at least once per year. To blow out the heater core I just pull off the hoses on both sides of the heater core and run the garden hose through it both ways to unblock it. I've even made special remnant hoses to do this quickly. You can disconnect up high near the firewall on the passenger side at the hose clamp and near the T-fitting on the H hose on the driver side (also has a clamp). I replaced both factory clamps with screwed hose clamps for easier removal/reinstall.

Flush your heater core, flush your ENTIRE cooling system (it will forever crud up on you) - try using the factory TSB stuff ("ph IRON cleaner" 2Qt bottle ~$40), replacing the water pump MAY help (it hasn't been cold enough here to prove it has helped me any), and check to make sure your blend door actuator (~$45 from the dealer) is working properly. The BDA is a white, milky, cigarette-box sized plastic gear box underneath the dash (at center) with a slim silver slotted "bar" attached to it. If it's broken (with a stripped plastic gear inside) you can temporarily prop the door up (heat position) by jamming a piece of plastic in the sliver bar slotted hole (I cut a piece from a plastic laundry container). I actually did this for a couple of seasons before finally replacing the broken BDA.

'97 Taurus GL Wagon 3.0L OHV
226.3 miles (03/12/16)
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