ice445's Susan the Sable - Page 2 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2018, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Chapter: West Coast
Year: 2001
Model: Mercury Sable
Engine: 3.0L 24v Duratec V6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sousa632 View Post
This ^^. Coming from someone who did the pan gasket I can respect the pain it is Let me ask you this...….. when you dropped the pan, did you see any globs of said sealant in the bottom of the pan or the pickup tube? I did with mine.
Definitely sucked doing it twice Noob mistake, but when you're in a hurry using someone else's garage...

And yes, I did actually. I spent about 15 minutes cleaning the outer edges of the pickup with a pick tool. There were many globs of hard, old sealant in there. I know some of it was from my first attempt, but I only used a little dab on each side so I certainly wasn't responsible for even half of what was in there. All was removed and all is well, kinda. Still leaks from somewhere up above, but the leak rate is massively reduced to where I don't care for now.

I just need to get this stupid EVAP monitor to bypass so I can get this car past emissions. Of course it's not supposed to be over 40F for the next who knows how long, so I have to do it the arbitrary and annoying way.


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Last edited by ice445; 12-08-2018 at 12:38 AM.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2018, 08:07 AM
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Ryan, at least here in SE WI (i.e., the forzen north) you can pass the E test with the EVAP monitor incomplete, since EVAP test wont run for most of the winter. You can pass with the EVAP monitor being incomplete, but not if EVAP shows a fail.

Might want to check with your local DMV and see if there is a chance the same rules apply to you.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-10-2018, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
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Year: 2001
Model: Mercury Sable
Engine: 3.0L 24v Duratec V6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff K View Post
Ryan, at least here in SE WI (i.e., the forzen north) you can pass the E test with the EVAP monitor incomplete, since EVAP test wont run for most of the winter. You can pass with the EVAP monitor being incomplete, but not if EVAP shows a fail.

Might want to check with your local DMV and see if there is a chance the same rules apply to you.
You were right. You're allowed one monitor to be unready for this exact reason. Passed and good to go 🙂

Also forgot to show this. I believe this is some kind of record. Almost 19 years on one of the original bulb. The other one was replaced and dated 2011.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-19-2018, 05:36 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
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Year: 2001
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So I did some junkyard digging to fix the door lock actuators, but I ran out of time to get the passenger side one. It's a real PITA to get them out, that's for sure. Not horrible, but I definitely am not going to enjoy repeating the process on the Sable twice. Also did the usual rounds to look for goodies. Next time I'm going to see if one of the two Expeditions in the yard has a solar sensor that's not trash. And find an autodimming mirror. It's been a while since I drove a normal sedan, and man people's lights are aggressive these days. Everyone around here has a lifted truck or SUV blaring HID's into my face.

Also did some digging on the cooling system mystery. Measuring inlet and outlet temps for the radiator using an IR gun showed some unusual stuff. The outlet near the water pump area was reading around 180F, and the heater core inlet was about 200F. But the lower radiator hose and thermostat housing were only reading 80F. Air coming off the rad fans is also unusually cool for how hot the car is supposedly running. I'm leaning towards a stuck closed thermostat, so I have a Motorcraft one on the way. I also ordered the revised cap just because this car still has its original. It's surprising to me that it's not technically overheating though. The fans are running constantly but the PCM shows the ECT never really rises above 212F no matter what I'm doing. At highway speeds it even decreases a bit to around 205. Given it's winter I am running the heat 24/7 and it's definitely hot enough heat to roast you out of the cabin, but still. I would think that would be insufficient to keep the engine from going nuclear. But, given I have such good heat, it would seem the water pump is working just fine. Guess we'll see what's what when I get the old thermostat out. Automotive archaeology can be fun at times. I'm just hoping this doesn't lead to a blockage somewhere or a junk rad.


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Last edited by ice445; 12-19-2018 at 05:41 AM.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-23-2018, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Oct 2014
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Can happily say the cooling system is fixed now. Swapped in a brand new Motorcraft 190F thermostat. I found an old Motorad inside, no idea what it's rated for. But I suspect it was stuck closed because the outflow pipe looked like it hadn't seen real coolant flow in a long time. Replaced a few clamps during the process, and dropped in some fresh coolant and the updated cap. Total cost was $30 (including the OEM oring). Gotta love Rockauto. Coolant temps hold right around 190F now. I even let it idle for 10 minutes at the drive through and it only creeped up to 201. Fans didn't kick on once.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-20-2019, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Bunch of nuisance items dealt with today. Both front lock actuators were replaced. What a pain that is, mostly because you have to do it blind and it's finicky in general. Do not want to revisit that. Programmed remotes, fixed the keypad (it was unplugged, probably from someone trying to fix the door lock and giving up), and installed the Mach system that Durasel hooked me up with. Also got my reman radio with aux installed as well. Sounds as good as I remembered, lol. Up next are front control arms and possibly ball joints depending on how much play they have when they're apart.


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