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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 03:53 AM Thread Starter
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Slotted rotors

What's your opinion on slotted rotors versus blanks? Here is a lot of "information" floating around on the web. A lot of it is usually just personal onions. Here are the things I have heard so far:

Advantages (over blanks):

Better bite under extreme conditions because the slots allow gases to escape
Better bite in wet conditions
Better initial bite
The pad stays deglazed

Disadvantages:

Shorter brake pad life
The area of contact surface is a bit smaller
Slotted rotors can not be turned


Of course, for every of these points, there are also some contrary claims, so it's pretty hard to find where the truth is. In terms of cost, some slotted rotors are not much more expensive than premium blank rotors. For example, ATE PremiumONE slotted rotors have good reviews on tirerack.com and cost on amazon about as much AutoZone's Duralast. In tirerack.com reviews, it seems like ATE slotted rotors + either Akebono ProACT or Hawk HPS seems like a popular combination.

Last edited by fct; 03-10-2012 at 04:07 AM.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 04:19 AM
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For me, slotted is better for performance, where there is heavy braking from high speeds. As far as daily driving, they are overkill. Although they do look cool. If you go drilled and slotted, they work even better as the drill holes work to keep the rotors cooler.
But if you are just daily driving, IMO, stick with blanks. Last long and are less expensive.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 05:26 AM
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Slotted rotors are for performance braking at a track. They eat pads like they are going out of style, they are very loud, and unless you are on a track they serve no purpose. Blank rotors word really well in a track enviroment too, they just warp faster because they aren't designed to relieve the heat from continuous heavy braking.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 06:37 AM
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I have drilled & slotted rotors on the wagon last April and I am here to say that I agree with the above posts. I bought them for one reason, LOOKS when I go to shows. Yes, they do work better in wet weather, but are they worth the added cost ?..... IMO not really, not for a daily driver. Spend the money on a quality rotor and dont worry about your brakes for a while. They do eat pads up faster, and I havent checked the rotor thickness yet, but my guess will be that I may be looking for new rotors as well already.
Stick with a quality standard rotor, youll be glad you did in the long run.


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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltagedrop View Post
Slotted rotors are for performance braking at a track. They eat pads like they are going out of style, they are very loud, and unless you are on a track they serve no purpose. Blank rotors word really well in a track enviroment too, they just warp faster because they aren't designed to relieve the heat from continuous heavy braking.
The first and best move from conventional design is curved cooling vanes. For the public however, there is confusion about which one goes on which side. There were some used on factory Mustangs but people did not understand which direction they went.

Slotting works for some racing, like NASCAR. Drilling is cosmetic. It reduces the volume of metal that transports the heat from the surface to the cooling fins.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 08:29 AM
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The brake pads on the market nowadays don't really off-gas like the older organic ones did. Slotted rotors? Look way cool, that's about it for a daily driver street car.


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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danhasenauer View Post
The brake pads on the market nowadays don't really off-gas like the older organic ones did. Slotted rotors? Look way cool, that's about it for a daily driver street car.
Agree and they put a slot in the center of the pad to let the gas out, that is much easier than doing it on the rotors. Technology has come a long way in recent years. I have a friend, couple streets over who shows his '54 Olds, nice powder blue. He drives it to meets all over. I go to a couple of these events each year. This guy reminds me about how poor the brakes of the 50's are and how you have to drive with double the distance between you and others in order to stop.

I remember on a '67 Merc, driving down to a river boat ramp and not being able to slow due to brake fade and turning the car sideways in a gravel parking area and sliding it sideways to a stop to keep from going straight into the river. Just me, no load, I missed a turn and got on the wrong road. We used to turn the drums and that made them double bad.

Happy stopping.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 09:36 AM
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I use the drilled/slotted rotors from DRT sports on ebay. Better in wet conditions. I've had several pads (OEM) separate from the backing plates due to rust, so I don't care if they wear faster. I'll change them before they are completely worn anyway. Cost is about $200 for pads and rotors for all 4 wheels.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 03:55 AM
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I have a pile of cracked drilled rotors in my garage. Slot and drilled rotors are for looks. Curved vane rotors help with cooling because they do pump the air. Cheap rotors and high quality pad and proper rotor seasoning and pad bedding will work well for most people. If you want the looks go for slotted and drilled rotors, but you really won't get a noticable increase in breaking performance and with drilled rotors you need to keep and eye on the cracks that will develope in the holes.

Bob


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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 11:39 AM
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^+1 with jedhead on the cheap rotors/quality pads theory!
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