2011 Taurus rear shock absorbers - Page 2 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
 9Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 12:07 PM
Junior Member
 
RLW001xxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: PA
Chapter: Northeast
Year: 2010
Model: Ford Taurus
Engine: 3.5L Cyclone V6
Posts: 49
Rep Power: 0
 
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Finally, got around to replacing my rear shocks...

Took me about 90 minutes start to finish.

Tools:
Needle-nose pliers to remove "plugs" that hold trim around upper shock mount.
8mm deep socket and ratchet to prevent shock shaft from turning.
15mm wrench to remove end-link nut.
18mm wrench to remove top shock nut.
18mm socket to remove lower shock bolts.
19mm socket to remove lug nuts.
Floor jack.
Car ramps.
WD-40.

What I did...
Sprayed WD-40 on end-links and lower shock bolt.
Put down rear seats.
Removed "plugs" to allow access to top shock nut.
While holding shock shaft with 8mm socket and ratchet use 18mm wrench to remove top shock nut. This is a PITA.
I left the top shock nut finger tight.
I decided to loosen top shock nut on both sides.
Loosen lug nuts with 19mm socket.
Raise car with floor jack.
Remove wheel.
Place car ramp under control arm.
Lower slightly to take tension off sway bar.
Remove 1 end-link nut with 15mm wrench while holding shaft with 8mm socket.
Remove lower shock bolt with 18mm socket.
Raise car slightly.
Remove top shock nut and remove shock. The rubber insulator may stuck in body, remove if your new shock includes one.
Install shock and finger tighten top shaft bolt.
Install lower shock bolt and tighten with 18mm socket. I put some Blue Lock-Tite on bolt before installing.
Attach end-link and use 15mm wrench while holding shaft with 8mm socket.
While holding shock shaft with 8mm socket and ratchet use 18mm wrench to tighten top shock nut. This is still a PITA.
Install wheel and tighten lug nuts with 19mm socket. Torque lug nuts to spec.
Now do the other side.
Install trim and "plugs".
Put up seats.
Drive around the block to test your work.
Put away tools.
Pat self on the back and have a beer...I just saved $200 bucks.
sheila likes this.

2010 Ford Taurus Limited.
RLW001xxx is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 01:44 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Northern Ohio
Chapter: Northeast
Year: 2013
Model: Ford Taurus
Engine: 3.5L Ti-VCT V6
Posts: 29
Rep Power: 0
 
Trader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by RLW001xxx View Post
Took me about 90 minutes start to finish.

Tools:
Needle-nose pliers to remove "plugs" that hold trim around upper shock mount.
8mm deep socket and ratchet to prevent shock shaft from turning.
15mm wrench to remove end-link nut.
18mm wrench to remove top shock nut.
18mm socket to remove lower shock bolts.
19mm socket to remove lug nuts.
Floor jack.
Car ramps.
WD-40.

What I did...
Sprayed WD-40 on end-links and lower shock bolt.
Put down rear seats.
Removed "plugs" to allow access to top shock nut.
While holding shock shaft with 8mm socket and ratchet use 18mm wrench to remove top shock nut. This is a PITA.
I left the top shock nut finger tight.
I decided to loosen top shock nut on both sides.
Loosen lug nuts with 19mm socket.
Raise car with floor jack.
Remove wheel.
Place car ramp under control arm.
Lower slightly to take tension off sway bar.
Remove 1 end-link nut with 15mm wrench while holding shaft with 8mm socket.
Remove lower shock bolt with 18mm socket.
Raise car slightly.
Remove top shock nut and remove shock. The rubber insulator may stuck in body, remove if your new shock includes one.
Install shock and finger tighten top shaft bolt.
Install lower shock bolt and tighten with 18mm socket. I put some Blue Lock-Tite on bolt before installing.
Attach end-link and use 15mm wrench while holding shaft with 8mm socket.
While holding shock shaft with 8mm socket and ratchet use 18mm wrench to tighten top shock nut. This is still a PITA.
Install wheel and tighten lug nuts with 19mm socket. Torque lug nuts to spec.
Now do the other side.
Install trim and "plugs".
Put up seats.
Drive around the block to test your work.
Put away tools.
Pat self on the back and have a beer...I just saved $200 bucks.
I did the same work on mine. Like someone said a post or 2 previous to this one, I wasn't to confident in the method of top mounting that the Monroes came with. I was able to peel the factory ones off of the washers and used them with the new shocks. Nice ride and quiet.

And only 1 beer?
terbob3 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2013 Taurus Rear Power Window Shade Problem..how to diagnose? PredatorVI 5th and 6th Gen Maintenance and Repair 3 08-10-2017 05:59 PM
2000 Taurus Wagon - Rear Shock Frozen 1993MercSable Maintenance and Repair 14 03-27-2017 07:18 PM
2008 Taurus rear camber AND sag issue...please help!! starquestbd22 5th and 6th Gen Suspension, Handling and Brakes 0 10-23-2014 11:54 AM
Brakes Dragging on 1993 Taurus LX with Discs Front & Rear & ABS Barkentine Suspension, Handling and Brakes 10 04-17-2013 04:15 PM

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome