Brake line junction? - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Brake line junction?

Hey guys, blew a brake line under the door area, common spot from reading here. I followed the line up by the front driver tire and the line goes into a junction. Is that the best place to try and remove? From there looks like it goes to abs. Is that junction there because of the bends in the line or does it serve a purpose like a proportion valve?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-27-2019, 06:50 AM
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It's best to repair from a threaded junction block. DO NOT let the master cylinder go dry and let air into the ABS pump, you will need a scan tool that activates the ABS pump to bleed the air out of it. Otherwise brakes will bleed normally. I pinch off the old line by the threaded connection while forming the new lines that head back to the rear and make the front connection last so I don't run out of brake fluid letting air into the ABS pump.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-27-2019, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by repairman54 View Post
It's best to repair from a threaded junction block. DO NOT let the master cylinder go dry and let air into the ABS pump, you will need a scan tool that activates the ABS pump to bleed the air out of it. Otherwise brakes will bleed normally. I pinch off the old line by the threaded connection while forming the new lines that head back to the rear and make the front connection last so I don't run out of brake fluid letting air into the ABS pump.

Didnt realize that about the ABS, appreciate that info. Do you know if the junction Im talking about is a good place to start? The line threads into a rubber looking piece thats bolted on the fender, not sure whats inside that piece.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-27-2019, 11:03 AM
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^ Shawn, is the '97 a wagon or sedan?
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-27-2019, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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^ Shawn, is the '97 a wagon or sedan?
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-27-2019, 02:28 PM
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Reason I asked is some wagons had the proportioning valve up front near the master cylinder/firewall area instead of left rear like the sedans.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 08:08 PM
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been there done that twice. yes its NO fun. you need to replace both lines. if one line is rotted, the other one is close behind. be aware that the nut sizes on the threads are different between the lines. trying to find new fittings is problematic.


both times i did it, went to the u pull yard and found a intact donor car (hard to find) and pulled the lines and used them.you may need to spray down the lines at the anti dive block in the back before you try to break them free, if you get complete donors, just cut the lines just above the fittings and put a socket on them to remove them from your car. note; you cannot do that on the donor car!
helps greatly if there rusted on. at the least, use a line wrench or you will strip the heads off the fittings


donor advice: anti lock and NON anti lock lines are NOT the same. so find a donor thats the same as
the type of brakes your car has. and disk drum or disk disk.



bleeding info: technically you need a higher end scan tool to run the abs pump to bleed them. but there is a work around. If your scan tool poor like I was, bleed the brakes as normal.
then take the car to a very wet or gravel road and jam on the brakes many times to activate the ABS
pump. then rebleed the brakes. you might have to do this more than once if the brakes are too soft.


If you real unlucky, you will have to do the rear crossover brake line. Just did that last fall on my 98.
miserable if you dont drop the fuel tank


Have fun


bob

Bob Urz 1989 Vulcan wagon (wife crashed) 1990 Vulcan sedan (sold running) 1993 Vulcan sedan (wife crashed) 1993 Vulcan wagon (beat up like Battlestar Galactica, drove to junkyard on a sad day) 1997 Vulcan sedan (down with multiple coolant leaks), 1998 Vulcan sedan (rescued from being junked three time with broken brake lines and bad rack, hydrolocked engine replaced ) down for now
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soundu View Post
been there done that twice. yes its NO fun. you need to replace both lines. if one line is rotted, the other one is close behind. be aware that the nut sizes on the threads are different between the lines. trying to find new fittings is problematic.


both times i did it, went to the u pull yard and found a intact donor car (hard to find) and pulled the lines and used them.you may need to spray down the lines at the anti dive block in the back before you try to break them free, if you get complete donors, just cut the lines just above the fittings and put a socket on them to remove them from your car. note; you cannot do that on the donor car!
helps greatly if there rusted on. at the least, use a line wrench or you will strip the heads off the fittings


donor advice: anti lock and NON anti lock lines are NOT the same. so find a donor thats the same as
the type of brakes your car has. and disk drum or disk disk.



bleeding info: technically you need a higher end scan tool to run the abs pump to bleed them. but there is a work around. If your scan tool poor like I was, bleed the brakes as normal.
then take the car to a very wet or gravel road and jam on the brakes many times to activate the ABS
pump. then rebleed the brakes. you might have to do this more than once if the brakes are too soft.


If you real unlucky, you will have to do the rear crossover brake line. Just did that last fall on my 98.
miserable if you dont drop the fuel tank


Have fun


bob
Hey Bob

Thanks for the info. Did you remove the donor line from the abs or where it connects to another junction or block by the front fender well? Thats the area im trying to figure out if its just a connector or some kind of valve?
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