Loud bang and now steering wheel is not centered - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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  • 1 Post By Jeff K
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Loud bang and now steering wheel is not centered

So I was driving my silver 2001, stopped at a red light and as I started forward I heard a bang on what was the passenger side front. My wife and I drove a couple of hundred feet and pulled into a parking lot. Did a quick check of the wheels to see it rear wheels were ok, thought maybe strut link pulled from unibody connecting point. We started driving to our original destination and the steering wheel was off center. I turned around and drove back home about 10 miles and it drove normal but steering wheel was off center.



At home I chocked the rear wheels one at a time and backed up and pulled forward to see if the wheels moved in the wheel well. They were solid in place. Then I noticed that with the steering wheel centered the driver side wheel was toed out. Passenger side wheel was straight on.



Then I noticed that the drive side wheel clearance to wheel well was about 1.5 to 2 inches lower. I haven't investigated yet but I think the spring broke. I am thinking the spring breaking caused the toe in to change because the camber change. These are Monroe Quickstruts installed about ten year ago. Any opinions before I start looking into what is wrong.


I was trying to hit 200k miles before I drop it off at the salvage yard. I only need 118 miles.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 08:04 PM
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In addition to looking for a broken spring, also check the subframe to see if one of the 4 mounting bolts broke, bolt pulled thru the subframe due to rust, subframe cracked from rust, etc. Sounds like time to retire the car.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff K View Post
In addition to looking for a broken spring, also check the subframe to see if one of the 4 mounting bolts broke, bolt pulled thru the subframe due to rust, subframe cracked from rust, etc. Sounds like time to retire the car.

Yep was going to retire it later this spring but now maybe just trying to drive it to the JY and not having to tow it. Not sure if a dropped subframe would change the toe in. Subframe on this car has always been solid and replaced mounts and bolts ten years ago trying to chase down a slight pop pulling forward. I was wondering what kind of event was going to be the motivation to junk it. Car runs well and was reliable.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 09:36 PM
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I'm guessin' spring...
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 02:25 AM
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My money's on a subframe bolt pulled through due to rot. Both theories are equally plausible, although the toe thing is kind of odd if it was just the spring.


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Last edited by ice445; 04-28-2019 at 02:28 AM.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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Was getting ready for this car to make the trip to the salvage yard today and switched tires to an older steel rim ones that were on my 2006. Real pain to get those rear aluminum rear wheels off. They were corroded in place and needs some heat from a ox-acetylene torch on the drum to free them up. Swapped batteries since I just put a new Interstate one in a few months ago.



I pulled both front wheel and did a full inspection of sub frame, bolts and suspension but didn't find anything wrong or broken. Springs were fine but driver side has sagged a good 1.5 inches over the years, passenger side still pretty good.



I put bottle jack under control arm and raised and lowered the suspension and all was good. Not sure where the original bang came from. I decided to adjust the toe in on the driver side by lengthening the tie rod by a little under a 1/4 of an inch. That tire did have inner thread wear. Took car for a five mile spin and car tracked petty straight actually the steering wheel needed to be turn a little in the opposite direction now. I need to readjust the toe in just a little by maybe a turn or two.



I need to pull the remote start that has served us well for the last fifteen years and maybe pull the blend door actuator for a spare. Maybe swap out the new coil that was installed a few years ago and also install the old cassette player instead of the CD player.
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