Right or wrong strut? - Page 3 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 02:06 PM
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I'm a professional Master mechanic for 42yrs. There is a greater risk of breaking sub frame bolts or breaking the captive nut loose inside the rail. Besides, it's likely the ball joint is bad. I have done hundreds of strut installations and each model has its pitfalls, take your chances.
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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-19-2019, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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The so-called "quick strut" arrived today. I am very disappointed. Even though the Monroe website clearly says that this strut is supposed to be 2 inches shorter than the other strut, it is in fact the same exact length.

Back to square one.
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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-19-2019, 05:19 PM
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Refer to post #19. Or view this:
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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Red face

Post 19 doesn't help in my situation as I have never installed ball joints before.

Here is my frustration. Every video that I've watched which talks about loosening the subframe shows the subframe being held in place with jack stands, and then (supposedly) as you jack the car up you should see the subframe bolts move as you jack the car up. I am raising the car up BUT it's not effecting anything, meaning, the subframe bolts aren't moving and the subframe still raises instead of the other parts of the car. I have loosened the subframe bolts at least an inch. I can't see any other place to jack the car up over the standard place where Ford tells you to use for changing a tire.

What could I be doing wrong?
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngelArs View Post
Post 19 doesn't help in my situation as I have never installed ball joints before.

Here is my frustration. Every video that I've watched which talks about loosening the subframe shows the subframe being held in place with jack stands, and then (supposedly) as you jack the car up you should see the subframe bolts move as you jack the car up. I am raising the car up BUT it's not effecting anything, meaning, the subframe bolts aren't moving and the subframe still raises instead of the other parts of the car. I have loosened the subframe bolts at least an inch. I can't see any other place to jack the car up over the standard place where Ford tells you to use for changing a tire.

What could I be doing wrong?

Simple: jack the car up at the front jacking point. Take the wheel off and put under the frame rail with 1-2 2x4's for safety. Put a jack under the sub frame between the sub frame bolts. You have to remove the air dam to reach the front bolt. Then lower the jack under the sub frame ~2". Use a pipe to pry the knuckle down if needed. Check the sub frame bolts, you might need to replace them if rusty shank. Jack the sub frame up, replace the two bolts and torque to spec. Done this several times with no issues.


-chart-
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Take the wheel off and put under the frame rail with 1-2 2x4's for safety.
I am using a typical hydraulic jack. Are you saying that instead of using the hydraulic jack to use 'the wheel' is going to make that much of a difference?

Quote:
Put a jack under the sub frame between the sub frame bolts.
So instead of using jack stands on the subframe, use the hydraulic jacks?
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngelArs View Post
I am using a typical hydraulic jack. Are you saying that instead of using the hydraulic jack to use 'the wheel' is going to make that much of a difference?


So instead of using jack stands on the subframe, use the hydraulic jacks?
The wheel under the frame rail is usually just a safety measure. Using what is handy. I always use two jacks. One holds the car at the jacking point, and one under the sub frame. Pic shows the rear where the jack is in the way of reaching the tension strut nut so I removed the jack. Jack rests on my home made pad which allows me to jack on blacktop drive without sinking the jack wheels in the pavement. (I used that today to change a tire on my wagon out in a parking lot in the rain/snow. On the front the jack can stay under the frame and do the front strut with no issues. If I plan to let the car stay on the wheel as a jack stand, I prefer a 2x6 board to spread the load so the frame does not dig in. Trying to do this with one jack is not worth the pain.


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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 07:58 PM
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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 07:42 AM
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Not trying to steal this thread but could this be a common problem? Got a similar problem. Broke the left front spring. Got two new quick struts from Rock Auto that they said were Ford OEM. Put them in and the distance from the tire to the outer wheel lip is 1 1/2 inches more, 3" versus 4 1/2". I found another Taurus SES and checked that height. I checked the unbroken old one and it is 22 inches. So now what???
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 10:16 AM
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I posted in the Rockauto section, but need to let all know what I found.

They were closing out they said Ford OEM quick struts. Put them in. Front of the car was 1 1/2 inches too high. I compared them to stock struts. Measured the strut. I found that the strut is 1 1/8 inches longer. Not in the body of the strut piston housing, but in the length of the piston travel. Then measured the spring diameter. It is 0.030 of an inch larger, which likely results in a stiffer spring.

Not sure what I can do since they are installed.

I cannot find any way to contact them by phone. I could not find an email address to send a comment to. I did phone the corporate number and they said they no longer have a service line number.

Anyone, got any ideas?

Last edited by Blueox; 04-30-2019 at 10:18 AM.
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