Brake System Issue - Page 2 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-22-2016, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gentryi321 View Post
Alright, well I checked the fluid in the reservoir and it has not dropped since I last checked it (over a week ago).
Then maybe a bad master cylinder.
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-22-2016, 09:17 PM
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Please add your vehicle information so we know what car we are talking about.... https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/75-s...ml#post3124065

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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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Brake System Issue Update

Quote:
Originally Posted by sheila View Post
^ I know, but the black plastic coupling is a very common leak/seep location.
Well everyone, I have an update for you guys...

I replaced the master cylinder today which went fine. Had to move a lot out of the way to get to the mounting bolts, to release the fluid level sensor, and to crack the lines. I could hardly fit a wrench in there! Now comes the fun part...

I quoted sheila's replay for a reason. As I was cleaning up from the Master C job, I noticed a good size puddle of fluid under the car toward the front of the car, right under the driver door. So, knowing it had to come from somewhere while working on it where I was, I knelled down, looking under the car where the puddle was while simultaneously pumping the brake pedal. That is when I found that pumping the pedal caused fluid to spurt out, though I could not see the source directly. So, I jack the left front side of the car to get a deeper look, and I see what looks like two foam pieces side my side (I know that is part of the parking brake assemb.) soaked with brake fluid, which were also blocking my view of seeing the lines above. I then look around the sides of the foam pieces and see that one of the lines (I might need to inspect the other) was ruptured. We're talking it being rusted over and corroded, and a piece of the line was bowed outward as if it suddenly blew. Note: There were no other leaks in the lines that I could see as I was working on the car today and yesterday.

Now I really need your help, my bull-owning colleagues! I obviously want to fix it myself, but I have not the first thought on how to approach this issue. I will obviously need to replace the line, I know. But just from an initial search I'm not sure what I'm looking for with respect to replacement. Several questions arise: Are there sections of line? Could I perhaps replace one section of the line? Are there pre-bent lines out there? Remember, I am a poor (relatively) college student who wants to save money by doing the work himself. In your responses, try to be as detailed and clear as you can, and give me as much information as you think necessary. Looks like I am taking the bus for another week...

Another side note: since I discovered the line under the driver door is ruptured, I guess that rules out the Master c prob. However, When I did remove the old MC, I did see a remnant of a seepage against the booster. When I inspected the piston, there was this black fluid oozing from the bore, which has to mean the MC piston was leaking.

Thanks in advance for your replies!
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 01:13 AM
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I believe that's a one piece line. The only places that might havea pre-bent line are: Dealer (pricey) or junkyard (risky)
Measure the length of the line with a tape measure, a length of string could also be used. Take it to the parts store or take photos of the ends to compare.
Use the old line as a pattern to bend the new one, the bends don't need to be as sharp as the original and can usually be bent by hand, saving the cost of a bending tool.
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 02:26 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4 wheel disc brakes View Post
I believe that's a one piece line. The only places that might have a pre-bent line are: Dealer (pricey) or junkyard (risky)
Measure the length of the line with a tape measure, a length of string could also be used. Take it to the parts store or take photos of the ends to compare.
Use the old line as a pattern to bend the new one, the bends don't need to be as sharp as the original and can usually be bent by hand, saving the cost of a bending tool.
So, to clarify, the pictures I would be taking would be to match the line on the car now to lines the part store has to make sure I get the right one, and to measure the line would be for the same result, to match whatever line I can get at the parts store? Second, you are suggesting that I go to the parts store to buy unbent line and bend the line myself? By the way, as I was typing my response I watched a line bending and flaring tutorial, so I suppose I am up to speed on this operation. I need to get some unbent line, and replicate the ruptured line. I also should check the second line that runs parallel to the ruptured one.
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 08:29 AM
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Replace with NiCop (nickel/copper) brake line. Easy to bend, easy to double flare, and will never rust. If you dont have a flaring tool with a double flair adapter, pick one up from the nearest Harbor Freight for cheap.

If one line is leaking, the other is not far behind. I would replace the other line also.

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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 11:06 AM
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I had a small shop splice in 2 small sections of line ~10yrs. ago on a '98 for about $70. They used compression fittings (not recommended). No leaks or issues to date.
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheila View Post
I had a small shop splice in 2 small sections of line ~10yrs. ago on a '98 for about $70. They used compression fittings (not recommended). No leaks or issues to date.
Thank you for the insight, Sheila.

I still believe I can do this myself if I get the line, replicate the dimensions of the old lines, bend the new lines, double-flare the ends, put end fittings on, and install the new lines, right? I don't mind buying the bending, cutter, and flaring tools to do the job. They are relatively cheap.
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-03-2016, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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An update on the brake line job...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff K View Post
Replace with NiCop (nickel/copper) brake line. Easy to bend, easy to double flare, and will never rust. If you dont have a flaring tool with a double flair adapter, pick one up from the nearest Harbor Freight for cheap.

If one line is leaking, the other is not far behind. I would replace the other line also.
So, I finished putting the new nicopp lines on my bull. It was quite the job, for I did not have many tools to work with, but I made it through! I routed them correctly, using some of the old and new ends (fittings) and the original clamps to make sure they stay in place. I realized the hard way that the ends that I purchased from the parts store were the wrong size, so that is why I had to use some of the old ends.

Getting to my question: while doing this job I let all of the fluid in the master cylinder drain out, so does that mean I need to remove the newly replaced mc and bench bleed it again?

Also, after I do that I need to bleed the brakes, of course. I am planning on doing the two-partner-while-using-a-hose-on-the-bleeder-screw technique. I have heard that is a simple, but more time consuming way of bleeding the brakes.

Thanks in advance for virtually walking me through this job!
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 02:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheila View Post
I had a small shop splice in 2 small sections of line ~10yrs. ago on a '98 for about $70. They used compression fittings (not recommended). No leaks or issues to date.
So, I went ahead and bled the master cylinder in the brakes today, however, the issue I began with still remains the same: the pedal is really spongy and you have to press it all the way down to the floor to get any braking effect, and even then the effect is not enough to feel safe. Note: I did notice that no matter how many times I stroked the master cylinder, there still were little teeny-tiny air bubbles cycling through while bench bleeding the mc.

Let me describe how the bleeding went. First, I bled the wheels in order as you have mentioned in previous posts, Sheila. Also, when I bled each bleeder screw on each hub I used a jerry-rigged piece of ac charge hose that I snipped both ends of to put over the bleeder screws (not the best fit, but it it did not leak from where it fit onto the screw). And, when I had my partner pump the pedal, air bubbles would come out (like it should), but then would get to a point there the bubbles would stop and the system would begin to fill the bottle up with fluid (as if the air from that section was purged and there was just fluid left to push through). But, I do not understand why the bleeding did not work. Maybe I need to buy a more snug and longer hose to make sure it fits tight and that the hose goes as deep down into the bottle as it can. Who knows, maybe I just need to bleed the system more first. What say you, Taurus community? I just really thought this would work, but I feel like I'm back to square one. Any help you can give?

Thanks in advance!


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