Increasing headlight output using parallel MFS ground wiring - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-08-2016, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Increasing headlight output using parallel MFS ground wiring

I found a couple of mentions from chartmaker that headlight output can be improved (at the cost of bulb life) by adding parallel wiring from the MFS to headlights.

Such a solution would be great for me because I use the headlights very little. I also have a bunch of replacement bulbs that I got for next to nothing thanks to closeouts and rebates at Rockauto.

So I have some questions for anybody who has done this:

1) Is it reasonably easy to route the new wire(s)? How much wire will I need?

2) Is it just the one wire from the MFS to the left headlamp? Or do I need to run another wire to the right headlamp to maintain voltage to that side?

3) Since I use the headlights so little and have enough spare bulbs, is it worth getting more than a 12 gauge wire here? Also, I haven't done the "big 3" so does that make any difference?

I've added in chart's diagrams and info from previous threads.





Last edited by rjacket; 05-08-2016 at 04:01 PM.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-08-2016, 07:47 PM
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I looked at the routing of the wire from the MFS to the HL and it looked like a lot of work. Pic my relay diagram and pic of the harness built out of the car ready to install. Wire on a bench/driveway is much easier than in the car. Need a relay and fuse/holder. There is a differnece between the diagram and the actual harness. I ran a new connector from the two headlights. Thus I keep all the OEM wires intact so the system is easier to do out of the car. The inbetween the lights jumper wire needs to be opened to do the install and then reconnected. Otherwise it is plug and play. Power from the battery + for the relay, using a low amp fuse and a good ground wire to the battery cable. This is for low beams only, same can be done for high beam with a second relay.
I do not cut any factory wires on the vehicle, only on the HL assembly.
I have been using this for 4 years but use XTravision Sylvania bulbs which have higher output and better life at the same time, but not much.

-chart-

Last edited by chartmaker; 06-17-2016 at 01:30 PM.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-08-2016, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks chart.

I'm thinking of buying this: 9007 Hi Low Slimline Ceramic Relay Wiring Harness Headlight Bulb Booster | eBay

It says 16 gauge wire. Do you think this is enough?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-09-2016, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjacket View Post
Thanks chart.

I'm thinking of buying this: 9007 Hi Low Slimline Ceramic Relay Wiring Harness Headlight Bulb Booster | eBay

It says 16 gauge wire. Do you think this is enough?
I would start out by looking at how you are going to hook this to your lamps? The weather tight cap has a 6 wire connection.

OEM vehicle uses 20gage wire and a long run of it. Every 3 gage numbers doubles the capacity of wire.

-chart-
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-09-2016, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chartmaker View Post
I would start out by looking at how you are going to hook this to your lamps? The weather tight cap has a 6 wire connection.
-chart-
I thought of this issue before pulling the trigger on the Nokya version (which claims to have 14 gauge wire).

First option is to remove the pins from the connectors to get everything in and out and retain the plug and play set up.

Second option is to splice into the wires. I have a bunch of posi twists so this is not so much work. This also gives the option of leaving the existing bulb connectors in place and working entirely outside the headlights.

The second option got me thinking I could just purchase the parts, but I'm getting the Nokya harness for $27 and all things considered, I thought it's not too much of a premium to pay to get everything in one package with a lot of the connections already made. If I had the parts on hand, I would have definitely done this myself.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-12-2016, 01:48 AM Thread Starter
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Just received the Nokya harness. Will be installing soon.

Doing some comparing / research, I believe these are identical to Putco's harness which would mean Putco's wires are 14 gauge as well. The only difference seems to be black insulation (Nokya) vs yellow (Putco).

I've seen comments that Putco's harness does not come with a fuse. While this appears to be the case, and also the same with Nokya, all is not as it appears. The two positive wires are actually 16AWG fusable wire links. This does the work of a fuse and is why there is a connector in the middle of the positive wires - it connects the 16AWG fusable positive wires to the 14AWG regular positive wires.

I've been able to remove the pins from the bulb holders and it looks like the pins in Ford's bulb holders can also be removed. Hopefully the holes are big enough to squeeze the pins through, so I hope to be able to do a plug and play install. The downside is that Putco's relays have a reputation for being unreliable and it appears the Nokya relays are the same product. If they fail with what little light usage they will see, I'll change them out entirely for a reliable brand.

On balance, either a home made harness or the harness on ebay with better relays but 16 AWG might have been a better choice.

14 or even 12 or 10 AWG isn't as important as I thought after I ran the numbers (the stock Taurus baseline is truly bad). Even using 16 AWG over a total distance of 10 feet for the passenger headlight only drops 0.3 volts, which would still deliver on average 13.7 volts. An 11 AWG harness would deliver 13.9 volts which in light output terms is not that different. 16 AWG also gives longer bulb life.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-30-2016, 02:50 AM
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If its your 2004, and using a better harness, I made a thing for this a while back you might find interesting. https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/117-...y-harness.html

I am happy to report everything still works excellently. It paid for itself the last few winters when I would take the bull instead of my new car when it was expected to be REALLY crappy out.

Last edited by noluck4; 09-30-2016 at 02:53 AM.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-30-2016, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noluck4 View Post
If its your 2004, and using a better harness, I made a thing for this a while back you might find interesting. https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/117-...y-harness.html

I am happy to report everything still works excellently. It paid for itself the last few winters when I would take the bull instead of my new car when it was expected to be REALLY crappy out.
Every one to their own plan.
But see pic, this requires only a simple relay, fuse holder and 2 wires to hook to ground and battery +. No cutting anything but wires. Transfer from one car to another, disable easily. Wire work done off the car. My lamp enclosure is not opened up to the dirt/water of the elements.

Pic was when I moved this from '01 which I sold to the '03 which I bought.
Cars keep their own enclosures, only modifications done on the wires to the bulb holder/weather cap.
Just my take.

-chart-
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-30-2016, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks noluck4.

Although I used the same harness kit as you, I ended up doing something a little different. Like chart, I didn't want to alter the lamp enclosure. And since I have a stock of posi-twist connectors, splicing is reliable and relatively easier as well.

So I removed the existing wiring and sockets and installed the new wiring and sockets all the way into the enclosure. Just felt it would be a pity not to use the 14AWG wiring all the way and to not use the sockets that came with the harness kit.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-01-2016, 03:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chartmaker View Post
Every one to their own plan.
But see pic, this requires only a simple relay, fuse holder and 2 wires to hook to ground and battery +. No cutting anything but wires. Transfer from one car to another, disable easily. Wire work done off the car. My lamp enclosure is not opened up to the dirt/water of the elements.

Pic was when I moved this from '01 which I sold to the '03 which I bought.
Cars keep their own enclosures, only modifications done on the wires to the bulb holder/weather cap.
Just my take.

-chart-
My lamp enclosure isn't opened up to the elements either. Only the rubber wire holder AKA grommet, was modified, then sealed with silicone sealant. Which is perfectly adequate. The only cut enclosure shown in it was for illustrative purposes on pushing out the grommet. It's also mentioned in the description. Which the grommets still can be pushed out if necessary after being cut and sealed. Another way to do it would be to drill through the rubber grommet and pull the pins from the connector, then feed them through, and then reset them in the connector. I have done a couple since, and that's actually how I did them.

The idea was to leave the original wiring as intact as possible. If someone has to replace the headlights, such as after a collision. Or the harness itself, and then has to deal with splices, that is a PITA. It also means permanent modification. The harnesses can fail, and someone who may buy the car down the road may not feel that the mod is something that they want. Mine, as I said before, was done for plug n play, and an easy back to stock.

Last edited by noluck4; 10-01-2016 at 03:19 AM.
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