Edit - Wire Routing
So I just read this
Good read on how to run the power wire but what about the grounds? What is ideally the best place to run grounds in the trunk?
And what about that remote turn on wire? Remember I'm mounting the HU in the center console but I'm going to run the HU's power wire from the center console and splice into the existing (or just cut the power line from the ICP
) power line behind the ICP
. Would I be correct in assuming that the stock remote wire is behind the ICP
as well? If so splice new HU into that remote and then connect the amps to the remote line listed in the post.
Actually since I do
have the HU in the center I could just run the remote wire from the center to the two amps right down the middle of the floor into the trunk if there is room to do that without having wires and RCAs getting into a bind due to the back seat. If not they'll run down the right side of the vehicle and I'll just have the remote wire spliced into the ICP
3/26/15 The Edit is Real!
Going for some sound proofing to reduce road noise and will then go into the deadener (Dynamat/Fat/Raam etc etc) later on but for now I'm going this cost efficient
route of dampening.
Okay time to buy some wire to power both of the amps.
What's the correct way to route the power wires? Left side or right side of vehicle? I know it goes through the firewall hole to the battery. About how long should those power lines be? Same with the grounding point. Is there a suitable grounding point in the trunk for both of those amps? I'm going to be running 0 gauge wire.
So far I think I have everything I need:
Amp Wiring Kit - http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-au...tallation-kit/
Distribution Block - http://www.knukonceptz.com/search-re...ibution-block/
Dan from KnuKonceptz recommended I use 1 80A fuse and 1 100A fuse
Power wires to ground the amps from the trunk - Dan suggested in the email to use 4 gauge power wire but I'm going to use the 0 gauge kit so should I use 0 gauge or 4 gauge?
Remote turn on wire for both amps and then a relay before connecting them to the head unit. What size fuse on the relay? 1A or 5A?
I looked at the fuses on the back of the amps and this is what they have. The sub amp has a single 80A fuse while the 4 channel amp as 3 30A fuses. I believe that's why Dan from KnuKonceptz said I should use a 80A and a 100A fuse in the distribution block.
Since I'm connecting both amps to said distribution block and then running a single 0 gauge wire from the block to the battery, do I need to use an inline fuse or does the distribution block cover that? *Edit* derp the amp install kit has an inline fuse. What size fuse do I need though?
Am I missing anything or am I finally ready to start installing? I'm pretty sure I'm going to need some extra crimps as well. *Edit* There are some set screw ring terminals (http://www.knukonceptz.com/sp/set-sc...10-gauge-pair/
) that I'm going to use instead of crimp connections. My order turns out to be over $100 with shipping. I should atleast get a free shirt or decal atleast
This is turning into a lot more than just BUY AMPS AND SUBS LOL but I'm learning quite a bit as to how things work. This project keeps growing financially (NOISE PROOFING A TAURUS LOL) but in the end I think it's going to work.
Bumping this because I have some new info
The amps have arrived. Now I just need a place to mount them. I have the sub box as well I just don't know how to secure that without damaging the box.
Since Radio Shack went under I was able to get some 12g wire so I'm going to rewire the speakers as well. I'll search for how to get wire through the door jabs but I would also like some feed back as well for this.
And where's a nifty hot 12v source I can tap into for my head unit that's near the center console? I'm thinking the 12v plug in.
Sub and box have been ordered.
Box - http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com...enclosure.html
DAT SUB - http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com...subwoofer.html
Amps are in the cart as well as the HU
HU - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OYWF2BW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2JVCW1GQY516ASub amp - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJ1LDE0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3QWSZ44N8P3XHSpeaker amp - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EJX4KF0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3QWSZ44N8P3XH
This HU is being put in the center console where the CD changer would sit
Now for my final post to the top of the thread:
I wasn't planning on using the CD player at all, just straight DAC to the phone. I've started on this project, just ordered the sub and the box. About to get both amps. I'm going to have a guy at work use some software to take the clamp/secure points on the HU and then use that to fab something up so it can sit in the CD changer slot.
I'm trying to find another HU that has all those nifty features as the one I have listed but without the CD player to save a few bucks but I'm not having any luck. Meh
Oh snap I need to get a wiring harness adapter don't I. This one right?
I may have found a bracket that may work with this install. This is from the Metra site
I think that's just the bracket that a single DIN unit can go into. If that's the case I can put the unit in that basket and then drop it into the hole where the six player CD changer is and mount it in there somehow and then fill the holes with a trim piece. I'll work on hitting up a JY
this weekend and see if I can scavenge a Metra kit and see if the metal bracket is removeable as well as snagging some MLV from some Towncars