New front pads & rotors - what else to do? - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Question New front pads & rotors - what else to do?

2011 Taurus SEL with 104,000 miles. I have new pads and rotors on the way - ordered the Raybestos 680758R, as well as the Wagner QuickStop ZD1376 front brake pads.



(Feel free to recommend something different if you think the above choices are totally off the rails... Nothing extremely special needed... I just want smooth decent stopping power without paying an arm and a leg).



Here's the questions I have:
  • after I remove the existing pads, and the calipers are dangling, what do I need to do to the existing calipers to make darn certain they're in good shape for my new pads, and won't do anything like warp the new rotors by holding the pads against them when I'm not braking? That type of stuff.
  • I've heard of greasing slide pins... (what kind of grease would I use, just normal lithium grease?)
  • I also had a shop I think I trust tell me they sandblast all calipers when they replace pads & rotors, to make sure the pads will slide nicely in their space in the caliper. That sounds like a bit of overkill and I don't really want to disconnect brake lines when I do the pads & rotors... I thought maybe I could take a wire brush to every surface the pads might slide along? But then I'm scared I'll just invite rust to move into any surface I brush... Is there anything I could easily coat the caliper's surfaces with to prevent surface rust?



Anything else I'm not thinking of? The bread & butter of my brake job experience was with early 2000's and mid-90's Taurii/Sables... They just seem to be a bit more simplistic.


Another curiosity - how do I know if I have the "standard" or "performance" brakes? Or is it just simply a different shaped pad that goes into the same caliper that determines this?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 05:40 AM
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You tube has many great videos on replacing brake pads and rotors. The sliding pins are very important to clean and lube (use proper lube). Ensure the pads move freely in their channels, the last set I installed had bad casting on the tangs and would not release easily causing them to drag.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kekaye56 View Post
You tube has many great videos on replacing brake pads and rotors. The sliding pins are very important to clean and lube (use proper lube). Ensure the pads move freely in their channels, the last set I installed had bad casting on the tangs and would not release easily causing them to drag.
I have also seen pads with the tangs a bit too long causing drag a few times. A minute with the bench grinder took care of the problem.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 02:34 PM
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I went back to Motorcraft pads. The Wagner pads I got for my '13 were loose and would cause a loud metallic click sound when brakes applied. Between the pads and hardware, there was just too much slop in the pads. Put the new Motorcraft pads in and noise gone.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 09:54 PM
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I just did mine- 143000 on factory brakes- and there was 20% of the pad left. I had pedal moderate pulse.
I used Raybestos ceramic- and turned the rotors. All went well - but my caliper pins were stuck. Grease in them was dried out so I cleaned them up and used the special grease they sell.
I cleaned the scale between the rotor fins as salt will sit in the scale and corrode them.
New brakes are good- they do squeal in reverse but no sign of brake dust on my wheels.
My fuel economy at 68mph went from 34 to 35.5 --I swear ---from the stuck pins???
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpar0808 View Post
143000 on factory brakes- and there was 20% of the pad left.

143,000 on factory brakes? I'm impressed. This will be the second set of front brakes I've put on this car.


Bought the car with 28,000 miles, replaced front pads & rotors around 45-50,000 because one pad was metal-on-metal.


Now, at 104,000, I checked, and one of my pads was down to just over 1/16 of an inch thick...


Hence... why I want to make sure to do everything I can to make them last this time around and make sure nothing is causing the premature wear any more.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kekaye56 View Post
The sliding pins are very important to clean and lube (use proper lube).

What is considered proper lube for caliper pins? I presume from this comment that it's not just your standard shop grease?
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gully52 View Post
What is considered proper lube for caliper pins? I presume from this comment that it's not just your standard shop grease?
I picked up a product called SIL-GLYDE. It works very well and does not melt from heat on the brakes. I am sure there are many silicone base lubes available.
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