Steering Rack replacement - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
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Steering Rack replacement

So my rack apparently has play in it. Just rolled 100K, but i've had this clunk for the last year and been trying to chase it down. Most likely i'll pay someone to do it as i need the car done quickly, but how involved is it to change the rack?

Saw a few vids with explorers showing dropping the exhaust, removing the rear subframe bolts and pivoting it down and then removing the rack. Anyone actually done this?

And then can it be reprogrammed via Forscan when done, and how is that process?

I'll prob call a few dealers and get a quote too


EDIT: Ended up not being the rack. Simple fix

2014 Ford Taurus Limited 3.5L FWD
1988 Ford Mustang LX 5.0L

Last edited by Mustang5L5; 07-01-2019 at 08:26 AM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 09:37 AM
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It's something I'd certainly be comfortable doing myself. Disconnect the tie rod ends, drop the subframe a little bit, disconnect the front sway bar and move it over the rack so it's not in the way, there's a thing (no idea what it's called) on the driver side that it's vertically inserted into which you pull out of, and then wiggle the rack out of there.

If I may ask, what kind of clunk are you feeling or hearing? Is it physically in the steering wheel?


Check this:

Most entertaining how-to video I've ever watched.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 09:51 AM
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Found another video. Not nearly as entertaining unfortunately, but it's much more in-depth.


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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdmiralSparklez View Post

If I may ask, what kind of clunk are you feeling or hearing? Is it physically in the steering wheel?
If you rock the wheel side to side, you can feel the clunk in the wheel and hear it if you stick your head down by the front wheels and have someone rock the steering wheel.

Over bumps, the suspension makes a sound similar to a loose tie rod end rattle. I got under my car this past weekend expecting to replace a tie rod end, pulled the boot off and found the slop in the suspension was in the rack itself. The tie rods were tight (plus i replaced them last year chasing down this rattle/slop) I can shake the passenger wheel and feel the play in the steering rack.

Only on the passenger side...which makes no sense as these racks are usually one piece all the way across.

Searching the explorer forums, i've found several references to the same issue.

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums...-wheel.437784/
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums...-wheel.437784/


Thanls for the vids. If i had a lift i've feel better about doing this...but my motivation for doing it in the driveway is very low right now. Best price i've found for the rack is $990 + $400 core. ABout to call a few dealers to get some quotes

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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1st Dealer got back to me.

$2500 to get it done. They are charging me $1700 for the rack. Ouch

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 12:57 PM
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Find a dealer that will let you supply the rack. I just replaced the rack on my pontiac. Dealer wanted 800 for the rack. Advanced was 116 bucks. And the dealer would install it, just not warranty it.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 04:47 PM
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This is one of those situations where I'd check car-part.com for a slightly used one from a salvage car, preferably from a Taurus not hit in the front or sides. You could also snag a re manufactured one. eBay has them for $400.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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Is the forscan portion as easy as copying the as_built file from the old rack and loading it onto the new rack? Any calibrations that needs to take place in addition to that?

The video's performing the mechanical part of it seem easy, but I still haven't convinced myself to do the job yet.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 10:05 AM
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If you do an entirely new rack, it's blank. It needs to have a calibration installed as well before it even knows what as-built is. That function requires IDS or UCDS. Getting a used one (unsure about re manufactured) it already has data and a calibration. You simply just need to edit in your as-built.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdmiralSparklez View Post
If you do an entirely new rack, it's blank. It needs to have a calibration installed as well before it even knows what as-built is. That function requires IDS or UCDS. Getting a used one (unsure about re manufactured) it already has data and a calibration. You simply just need to edit in your as-built.
So basically there's a chance i could still end up with a paperweight in my driveway if i change out the rack and find out I am unable to get the rack properly programmed and/or calibrated. Given that i only have a small window to get the job done, that could be a problem.

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