Bad Ford Battery - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-13-2018, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Bad Ford Battery

Hey out there anyone experiencing bad Ford batteries? I have 22K mi. on my 2015 N/A 3.5 V6 Taurus bought brand new, the battery was diagnosed as dead about a year & a half ago & was replaced under warranty. The car wouldn't start after a short trip of 5 miles or so today. Now the replaced one tests bad too , & left me stranded , but when jumped , the vehicle started right up. Took it to Auto Zone & they tested the battery & Charging system. It was charging fine. But when Auto Zone put the battery tester with the engine off , it shows a bad battery. I'm perplexed , could there a parasitic drain? It seems every year & a half this vehicle needs a new battery. Auto Zone employee said it was a dead cell, but this time after his tests the car started right up, didn't need a jump? Could the ECU be causing this? Put on some Morimoto HIDs but did that to other cars too & never had a problem. WTH?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-14-2018, 04:05 PM
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That's an odd one. I think it would be anomalous that you received two defective batteries in your vehicle's life. Personally, I just replaced the battery in my Taurus since some cells were dying, yet that was the factory battery built with the car.


I can guarantee the HIDs are not the problem unless the balasts were wired entirely wrong. I have D2S 4.0 projectors and some pretty solid HIDs along with halos and demon eyes and that isn't causing any draw with the car off. I would suspect there's a short somewhere causing some excessive power draw. Have you scanned your car for any codes?
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-14-2018, 07:22 PM
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The newer Motorcraft batteries are crap.

My Taurus never murdered a single battery and I swore by Motorcraft. Then I bought my Explorer and it's on battery #3. Battery 1 was flatter than flat after 8 months of driving, Battery #2 didn't die, but had an impending cell failure--the case was starting to bulge. I said screw it, and paid out of pocket for an Interstate. The dealer SA said that 'sometimes they bulge.' Yeah, no, not like this one buddy.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-14-2018, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks , AdmiralSparklez & thefanchise713 , for your quick replies. Well I am baffled too. I was leaning to the Morimoto HIDs , but they work fine ,Admiral, & I checked the wiring several times & it seems correct. They are not stand alone power mounted , but power hook up is via twin relays to direct battery power. As thefranchise713 wrote here, many agree that Motorcraft batteries are not the greatest , but 1 1/2 years for both & probably 10K miles on each one, seems pretty bad indeed. & yes no codes are coming up. WTH? The charging system seems OK with all accessories on , it puts out almost 14 volts. Maybe I'll just install an AZ , O'Reilly's , NAPA, or an Advance battery & see how that goes. I don't know who makes Motorcraft Batteries , but if they're made in China , well that could be a reason they failing so prematurely?


I'm going to do a Parasitic drain test now, & pull the fuse on the headlights to see if the Morimoto direct hook up HIDs, are pulling amps when everything is off. I'm thinking of switching to LED headlights anyway, maybe I'll give that a shot?
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-16-2018, 06:37 PM
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It's all just Exides (I think?) and Johnson Controls batteries with different labels and quality standards. Deka/Penn Power is still their own thing--but I don't see them terribly often.

As much as I despise aftermarket HIDs and want to blame the world's ills upon them--it is unlikely that is what ails you. I've seen ballasts blow, housings melt, and I'd even believe some weird CAN issues caused--but a battery failure? I'd be a bit surprised if that was your cause.
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Last edited by thefranchise713; 11-16-2018 at 06:39 PM.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-19-2018, 01:34 PM
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I would just find a battery from your local parts store with the highest CCA amps, and the longest warranty. Whether you buy it from AZ, AA, ORiellys, NAPA, CarQuest, Wal-Mart, or the dealer, they are all pretty much made by 1 of 2 manufactures as @thefranchise713 said.

AZ keeps a electronic Database for warranty reasons. AA was supposed to get there last year and never did, and they purge their in store databases every 3 years. Wal-Mart, ORiellys, NAPA, CarQuest, are all paper receipts. For some thats not a big deal, but I can never manage to maintain my receipts, so its a big deal to me. My Envoy goes thru a battery every 2.5 years. I have a Duralast Gold in it, and the free replacement every 2.5 years for the last 8 years has been nice!
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-19-2018, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thefranchise713 View Post
It's all just Exides (I think?) and Johnson Controls batteries with different labels and quality standards. Deka/Penn Power is still their own thing--but I don't see them terribly often.

.
Johnston Controls makes the motorcraft battery, along with the Die hard series and the Duralast brand and whatever Walmart has. For the most part they are all the same and there's a few levels. I've read a few threads where guys who worked there would comment on just taking identical batteries and slapping on labels from the various brands they were making them from.

Anyway, with that said, I find it odd that the OP killed two batteries in such a short period of time. Have you put a multimeter on the battery to see if your alternator is overcharging? Anything over 14.5V for extended time will cook a battery. Voltage regulators on alternators go bad and that can happen.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-20-2018, 01:38 AM Thread Starter
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Everytime I disconnect the neg side of the battery cable , & then reconnect it to the neg battery terminal battery, the dual relays of the HID kits power to battery, tick once , & the HID beams flash for a split second then go off? That's ignition off , & of course engine off, & headlight switch off. The Retrofit Source , where I got the HID kit from, sent me two new relays. They said they never heard of their Morimoto 35Watt HID direct to power unit causing a battery drain on any Ford product of recent models, including the Taurus & they said the more popular application of the Fusion too.


I'm going to put the new relays on tomorrow. This is again, is a power directly to battery HID set up & the power leads are hooked up directly to battery, negative also to battery , not ground. I bought a new 3 yr. free replacement battery today , & had an electrical check on the alternator & it was charging normally. The maybe 14 month old Motorcraft battery , they said was at 50% of its capacity. I have a Phillips HID unit in my C5 , & the hook up is the same, direct to power with 2 relays & never had a problem.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-20-2018, 07:24 AM
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The HID flicker is normal when connecting the battery. Both my envoy with aftermarket HID, and my Montego with factory HID, do it.

Now comes the fun part, finding what's causing the battery to fry.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-20-2018, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies guys. Tollkeper, its nice to know that HIDs flash when reconnecting the neg side of the battery, that eliminates that as a culprit. Now I just remembered one more mod I did , & that's to put in canbus compliant LEDs all over the interior , to replace the hideous yellow looking incandescent bulbs in the Maps / courtesy lights. They aren't on when all power is shut down, so I can't see that being a battery drain when engine off, & all power off. Its not like these two batteries fried over night, as in most cases of parasitic drain , this drain is over a year or a year & half.
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