Remove Water Pump on Gen 3 Duratec
From Taurus Car Club Maintenance and Modification Wiki
9/26/09 1997 Taurus Duratec V6. I had to go to Ford dealer to find out how to remove Serpentine belt. I had to use some degresser to find the 3/8" hole on the pully above the harmonic balancer. I used a 3/8" rachet to release the tension. I also used a 3/8" impact gun and 5mm socket/allen on the housing screws. This made it very easy and quick. I used tye-tye's to hold mud flaps and removed hoses/cables out of the way.
There is an excellent post in the Taurus Archives http://www.taurusclub.com/archive/index.ph...=0&#entry116060 (copied below) which provided me much help changing my water pump. I had a few comments to add to the post based on my experience:
Serpentine Belt removal - I managed to get away without buying a special tool - I used an offset ring spanner and tackled the tensioner pulley from under the car. After turning the tensioner clockwise there is a little black sprung loaded tang you push in to engage in the tensioner and prevent it from applying tension to the belt. This also makes the re-fitting of the belt easier - once you have threaded the belt back on and aligned it, just apply a little clockwise torque to the tensioner - the locking tang releases, you release the torque and voila, the tensioner is all tense again.
Removing the 3 hoses from the water pump - I agree with the earlier post that its all but impossible to remove all 3 hoses with the pump in situ. You will be able to get off the 2 larger hoses - leave the 3rd small hose (its on the lower left of the pump as you look at it installed on the engine say at the 8 o'clock position, but behind the larger lower hose. Removal of this 3rd hose is easy when you have the pump half out of the car! I replaced just the one factory spring clip - the one for the large lower hose, as I could not easily get vise-grips onto the spring clip for re-installation.
Removing the pump from its mounting housing - Use a 5 mm Allen Key - there are only 7 bolts holding the pump on - not 8 as per the previous post - which I discovered after having searched for some time for my missing 8th bolt! 2 of the bolts cannot be removed with the allen key in its conventional orientation as they are too deep inside the pump housing. The fix is easy - put the allen key in the vise - long end out to the side - put the required pump bolt on the protruding key and use the leverage of turning the pump to remove the bolt.I had to use a lot of spray and heat to loosen these bolts.Be patient and make sure your allen wrench has a very squared and flat end to it for a better grip.If you are using a single wrench you can turn it the long way and place a small pipe on the short end for extra leverage inside the deep part of the housing.
triangular brace between pump and a/c - removing these bolts - they are 10mm not 11mm as stated earlier. A ring spanner, offset ring spanner and socket set may be required to remove these bolts and also the water pump retaining nuts (13mm)
seperating the pump and housing - I used a large scewdriver and carefully levered between 2 alloy protrusions - one on the pump, one on the housing - much easier than a mallet...
This is the original post http://www.taurusclub.com/archive/index.ph...=0&#entry116060
Seishun has a new water pump now. I apologize for not taking pictures, but I was in a hurry to finish the job.
bigbadblackbull was correct that one of the keys is to remove the front passenger wheel and the plastic shield behind it. This is held in by three trim screws under the edge of the wheel well and some push in retainers into the frame. Those I pryed out with a screwdriver. They went back in fine, but I suspect more could be had from Ford, if necessary. There is then one more smaller shield that mounts under the alternator. It's held to the frame with two machine screws.
Drain the coolant. You'll need to remove the radiator splash shield from the bottom of the car. The draincock for the radiator is on the driver side. Remove the cap from the coolant tank to allow better drainage. Close the drain when you finish otherwise you'll forget about it later.
The themostat is on the bottom of the car so the system never drains completely. Have a pan under the water pump when you remove its hoses.
On the top side, you'll want to pull the plastic coolant tank. It will give you room to work and you can clean the muck out while it's off the car. There's one nut and one bolt that hold it in. Then there is a tab that comes out of the side of the tank and holds it to the wheel well. You need to lift the tank up up, then pull it out to the side to get the tab free. There are two small hoses on the top and one large hose and an electrical connector on the bottom.
Take off the serpentine belt. You will need a special tool to release the tensioner. I bought mine from Advance Auto. It's a half height 15mm socket on a long flat handle. You need to turn the nut clockwise as you look into the passenger side of the engine. That's from the back of the car towards the front.
There is one large hose on the top of the pump housing and a large and small one on the bottom. I couldn't reach the clamp on the smallest hose until I had the pump pulled halfway out. It will depend on how it's rotated. The car is built with the spring clamp style hose clamps. I replaced most of them with the screw clamps.
The pump is mounted onto four studs on the engine with four 13mm nuts. You can get two from the top and two from the bottom through the wheel well. Also from the bottom there is a small triangular brace between the pump and the A/C pump. It must come off too. There are three 11mm bolts on the brace. For these various nuts and bolts I use a socket wrench with 1" and 2" extensions and deep offset end box wrenches.
Once it's unbolted there is just room to slide the pump off the studs. Then you need to squeeze it out between the ends of the studs, the wheel well and the power steering pump hose. There is also a refill port for the A/C (at least I think that's what it is) that interferes with the removal. [It's an around 8" tall pipe that sticks straight up from the A/C lines.] At the bottom where the pipe connects to the main line there is a clamp you can remove that gives you some play. With enough twisting and turning you can get the pump out. If the clearances are tight in removing the pump past the wheel well you can loosen the right front motor mount and raise the engine
The pump is actually two pieces. The pulley and impeller half is the part the comes when you order a new pump. The back half has the three fittings and you will reuse that. It is bolted to the front with 8 bolts. The bolts have 5mm inset hex (Allen) heads. This stopped me dead last Sunday. I had to go out and find one. It took so long that I didn't managed to finish last weekend. You may need to spray something like PB blaster in from the front face and let it soak before you can get those bolts out. They come out hard. You may need a tap with a rubber mallet to separate the pump halves.
After I had the bolts out I sprayed them off with PB Blaster and ran them into and out of the cleanest hole on the old pump half to cut the crud off the threads. Carefully clean the old gasket off the back half of the pump that you will reuse. A new gasket should come with the new pump. Coat it with gasket shellac and put it on the pump front. Use a thin coating or it will ooze out. Place the pump back onto the pump front and loosely screw in the bolts. Use a 5mm inset hex socket and torque wrench to tighten the bolts to about 20 in-lbs (according to Haynes.)
Now for the mantra, "intallation is the reverse of removal."
When you get to the belt, here are some hints. I used the special wrench to release the tensioner and with the wrench pulled as far as I could pull it, tie it to the front of the car with some rope. Now you have two free hands to get that belt back on. Note that there is a routing guide for the belt on the underside of the hood.
Squeeze the belt in half and push some of it down between the water pump pulley and tensioner pulley. Work that end over the crank and A/C pulleys. I did this from the conveniently exposed wheel well. Now from the top get it over alternator pulley. Finally work it up over the power steering pulley. The handle of your tensioner wrench will be in the way a bit, so you may need a screwdriver to carefully work the belt past the wrench and onto the pulley. Be sure the belt is still in place on all pulleys and then you can release the wrench.
Now that it's all back together, refill with coolant (half water and half antifreeze) up to the top fill line of the tank. Leave the cap off. Start the car and let it run until the the thermostat opens. (The top coolant hoses will get warm.) As the coolant circulates, add more to the tank to keep it from running dry. Once the thermostat opens shut off then engine and let it cool down. Now add coolant to the tank to between the cool fill lines. MAKE SURE YOU LEAVE THE CAP OFF THE TANK WHEN FILLING AND RUNNING!! I came close to overheating and realized it in time. I believe it was air-locked because not enough fluid was in the system yet.
And there you go. Keep in mind that these are just notes from some DIY guy, not a professional mechanic.
