How to change the front brakes on a 2000-2007 Taurus/Sable
From Taurus Car Club Maintenance and Modification Wiki
This article is a guide to change the front brakes on any 1996-2007 Taurus or Sable. While the 2008+ 500/Taurus and Montego/Sable will be similar, torque specifications will be incorrect and will need to be adjusted.
Contents |
The Victim
2001 Mercury Sable LS Premium, 53K miles
Tools
Tools:
- Lug nut wrench (factory)
- 1/2 inch drive torque wrench
- 3/4 deep socket (1/2 in drive)
- Heavy duty gloves
- Rubber mechanic gloves
- Rotors and pads of your choice
- Locking pliers
- C-Clamp
- Anti-seize lubricant
- Non-Chlorinated Brake cleaner
- Disk brake caliper lube
- 2 jack stands and jack (do NOT use the factory ones!!!)
Before You Start!
Inventory all parts!
How To Do It
1. Loosen up lug nuts on both front wheels. Roll windows down so you can easily access inside the car if needed. Engage parking brake, pop hood, and remove brake fluid reservoir cap.
2. Place jackstands in position and raise car.
3. Use jacking points underneath car.
4. Take wheels off (use your heavy duty gloves so you don't get entirely filthy!)
5. Use a 12mm combination or socket wrench to get small caliper bolts out to access the pads. (Do not let the caliper hang on it's hose!!! You can cause the hose to stretch or even rip causing leaks! You DON'T want that! I used a bungee cord and wrapped it around the spring.)
6. Use a 15mm combination or socket wrench for caliper brackets. If the bolts are difficult to break free, spray them with some PB-Blaster or CRC 6-56 lubricant, and wait awhile, then try again.
7. Remove rotor.
8. Take new rotor out of box and spray down with brake cleaner. The rotors are coated in an anti-rust gel that you don't want getting all over your pads, so brake cleaner is your friend! It dries quickly without residue.
9. Apply anti-seize to surfaces and bolts for an easier time next time around!
10. Place new rotor over hub assembly
11. Re-install caliper bracket and torque the bolts to (will come back to this) ft/lb's.
12. Install brake pads.
13. Pull your slider pins from the caliper bracket. Lubricate the slider pins with your caliper grease and re-install them. You may need to pull them out via locking pliers. If they are seized in the caliper body, you will need to replace your caliper.
14. Use your C-Clamp and an old pad and push the caliper piston in as far as it can go.
15. Re-install caliper assembly.
16. Re-install wheels and lug nuts. Tighten and let the car down.
17. Torque your lugs! This is VERY important, because you don't want your wheels falling off! The proper torque specifications are between 85 - 105 lb/ft.
18. Pump your brakes so the caliper piston is back in the ready position. Replace your brake fluid reservoir cap and close your hood.
19. Test your brakes on a side street. If you stop - you've done it! If you don't.... Pray and hold on to somthing! 
REMEMBER: Do NOT go fast at first when testing out your brakes.
After installation of new brake hardware, it is advised that you follow the rotor seasoning and pad bedding procedure from Baer Racing.
Note: Thanks to Ashley (TCCA Member Firespirit) for this writeup.
